Knitting in the round jog between purl and knit rounds

I am knitting a hat in the round which has 4 purl rounds, followed by 5 knit rounds - how do I avoid the obvious jog where the switch occurs?

Try to see if you like the result by using the same technique as for jog-less color change:

I have tried various methods, including picking up the bottom leg on the 2nd. round, and also tried slipping the first stitch and moving the marker, but I haven’t been really happy with anything I have tried so far. Thanks for the reply.

I’m not very happy with the methods that I’ve tried either. This is a new one for me and I’m going to try it out next time around.

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I will certainly give this a look and try it out, and will post about the results. Thanks for sharing.

Just looked at this, and on the ones that I tried slipping the first stitch of the 2nd. knit round, I found that it seemed to be really loose and quite noticeable.

Make sure you aren’t forgetting the “with yarn in front” part of the slipped stitch–that’s the key. But I tried that method once as well and it didn’t really do it for me. I found it looked different, but to my eye not particularly nicer, or less noticeable. (In fact, it felt it almost made it look sloppier in a way, because it looked like I had tried to hide it but not quite succeeded, which to my mind just seems worse. :grinning:) Though there may be one out there, I have not yet found a method for creating jogless circular garter that I really like. And Ive actually done a fair bit of garter in the round. So I simply place the jog in a place where it looks intentional (eg, seam-like) or at least less conspicuous or asymmetrical, like the center back of a waistline or the underarm line of a sleeve. Since I fully gave up thinking of it as a “problem”, and accepted it as just the nature of the stitch pattern, it doesn’t really bother me enough anymore to worry about a “fix.”


Thanks for your input to my query - it’s very frustrating, indeed. I guess I need to just do up a ‘dummy’ hat and try everything that’s suggested to see what I can live with. The rest of the hat always looks so ‘finished’, but the jog that I am trying to fix just ruins it for me. I know that most knitters are too hard on themselves, and non-knitters probably won’t even notice it, but to the knitter, it’s so evident.

I wonder if it would be less noticeable if you moved the join one stitch over on each switch?

I have tried that on the second round of each purl and knit section, and sometimes it seems to be fine while other times it doesn’t seem to work so well.

You mentioned one of the methods was loose at that point, sometimes those kinds of methods need something besides your regular tension if that makes sense. Like the manipulating of the needles pulls your normal tightness off. If you make a swatchhat to try stuff out, feel free to tug on both strands a bit to see if it helps! I use this one but I take a second each color change to tug the two different color strands a bit afterwards to close up the loose stitch because I always get that loose spot where the color changes :slight_smile: Usually works out as long as I don’t yank too hard and end up with super tight stitches instead lol. Good luck!

Thank you. I had actually seen that video before - she is always very straight-forward, and easy to understand. I am knitting a hat right now, and using her technique, but there is no second color involved in this hat, and I am moving the marker one stitch on round 2 of each section. So far, it looks promising.

MAGIC LOOP!!! You never get a jog; fiddly to learn but not all that fiddly and SO SO worth it!!! I just love, love love magic loop, and hate hate hate jogs!!! Please do try it if you haven’t before; I’ve made lots of hats, with never a jog. Life saver!

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That is something I have never tried at all - will have to give it a go. I never knew it would stop the job. In the meantime, I have been playing around with this, and have knit 2 hats with the following method, and I am really impressed with the results - even though I know where the end of the round is, it’s barely detectable: on the second row of each of the purl and knit sections, remove marker. Lift the bottom leg stitch purlwise and put on left needle. Purl or knit these 2 sts. together as per whatever section you are working on. Replace marker after this new stitch. I also make the last 2 purl stitches of the first and second purl rounds only a bit looser - not really loose, but just not pulled snugly. If any of you try this, let me know how it goes. I will definitely give the ‘fiddly’ magic loop method a try. Thanks for letting me know about this.

I know this thread is a little old but I was looking at how to knit a few ridges of garter in the round without the jog. Slightly different problem but I thought I’d share this tutorial as I think the method could be adapted to what was needed here, a few rows of knit and a few rows of purl.
Personally, I am not experienced enough to really understand this yet but I’m trying, I think thismtutorial could help as it shows how to make a jogless garter but then how to transition from garter to stockinette and I think this part could help with the original question.
I think this method is different from the one previously posted and perhaps just gives another option to explore.


I’ve always found that by far the easiest method of knitting in the round, once you’ve got over the counterintuitive and weird-feeling learning bit, is magic loop; I wouldn’t knit in the round any other way now, I really love it, and you never have to even think about jogs, it just doesn’t happen.

Even with magic loop you will have a jog if you switch between knit and purl for each round. Neither the needle type nor knitting technique will not solve this problem.

Besides helix knitting, there is a simple technique that can be used and the only downside is one stitch with double yarn per round, which is certainly less visible than a jog: when you have knitted the last stitch of the round, work one stitch more but this time into the parent stitch (=which is equal to do a lifted increase). Slip the first stitch of the round and you have a double stitch binding both the beginning and the end of the round. Begin from next stitch with the next round. This will move the beginning of the round by one stitch.


My attempt at helix knitting didn’t work out and no idea where I went wrong but I still got a jog and I think the technique you describe @engblom is what I need to try next time.

Can I ask a couple of questions about this please?

  1. After doing this technique, the lifted increase and slipped stitch do you then kn the next round knit those 2 stitches together to maintain the correct count?
  2. This technique is done at the end of every round for the period you need no jog, let’s say garter ridges and the switching from garter to stocking stitch, and moves the beginning of the round marker across 1. When you stop using the technique, because say all rows are stocking stitch, the beginning of the round will have moved along several stitches, do you just take that as the beginning ofnthe round from then on in the pattern as though it was always there? You don’t do anything to bring it back in line with where it started out?

Thanks. I will probably do this on my next project which I’m almost ready to begin.

  1. Yes, both strands of yarn will be completely parallel and you work them together.
  2. It is up to you to decide how to do it. Either you have the new place as the beginning of the round or then you cut the yarn and rejoin at the old place.
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Thank you. I’ll see if I can remember this.