Looks like a lovely xmas pattern. Did you have a particular question?
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The moose are terrific. What is the name of your pattern and which size are you making?
Usually you would start at the heavy line for your size and proceed to the left on row one. When you get to the end of the chart on the left edge, go back to the first square on the right edge and knit to the end of row. That’s just a guess but knowing the pattern and designer will help us help you.
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Thank you for getting back to me. I can’t give you any more information about the patterns than I’ve already given because it’s in a pattern book by Wendy and is just entitled Reindeer and Stars. I’ve already done what you have suggested. The armhole shaping directs to cast off 4sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows which gives 93sts which I have. The chart commences with saying 30/32 94sts and the deep line is on 94. It is exactly the same for all the other sizes, namely that one more stitch is given on the chart than the pattern says. I’ve never come across anything like this before. I decreased one st each end as the pattern directs which gives me 91 but when I purl back I have 2sts left over and obviously this will jog the pattern.
Count the squares in the chart from your starting point to make sure the chart is showing 94sts. If so, mark the center stitch on your needle and center the chart so that the reindeer will be face to face with that center stitch between. The stars will be off set but they seem to be in the photo as well.
I don’t know why the stitch count would be off but working as above will make sense of the colorwork.
It’s really a lovely winter design. (We can talk about moose vs reindeer later.)
I hope we get to see a photo when you finish.
Thank you very much for getting back to me. Yes you’ve located the pattern despite my not being able to give full details. I think my problem is that the squares are so small and I lose track of where I am. The first row with the decrease went OK, it was the second row which went wrong. I’m starting again.
The first row of a chart is often difficult to get right. It may help to mark off the stars with markers all around to make sure you’re on track. It looks like 13sts at the widest point. Anything to help keep track of the pattern.
A lifeline at this point might be good too.
Thank you very much for your advice. I made several attempts to get started and was about to call it a day but you’ve helped me to focus better on the pattern rather than just the stitches. I have written out a pattern repeat on every row and have now completed the stars and I’m midway with the reindeer.
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Success due to your perseverance. Have fun with the pattern. These motifs are so addictive. You just can’t wait to work another row just to see the pattern emerge.
I would appreciate some further help with this pattern. The directions are as follows:
BACK
Shape Armholes
Cast off 4sts at beginning of next 2 rows** - 93sts. Decrease 1st each end of next and following 6 alternate rows*** - 79sts. Continue straight until armhole measures 20cm finishing on a wrong side row.
The instructions then give the shoulder shaping.
FRONT
Work as given for back to ** then work all 39 rows of chart including rest of armhole shaping working ** to *** on back continuing to work from chart. Break off contrast colour and continue in st st using main colour only. Work straight until 22 rows less have been worked on back to start of shoulder shaping.
My problem is that after the 39 rows of the chart there is only 11 rows until the armhole measures 20cms, so how would I knit 22 rows less when knitting the front? I’m still knitting the back and as the instructions are the same for the back and front upto this point, I have knitted the chart pattern on the back as well. I’d be grateful if you could clarify.
Thanks
What is the row gauge given for the pattern? What does your row gauge measure on the back? It may be that you are getting fewer rows per 10cm than the pattern has planned for.
22sts and 28 rows to 10cm over stocking stitch on 4mm needles which is exactly the same as the ball band. My tension is always correct with this DK yarn. I’ve never come across this problem before.
Eleven rows would be about 4cm (close to 2 inches). There’s two things I can think of depending on where you are on the back chart.
You could lower the chart so that it begins before the armhole bind offs (about 11 rows earlier) giving you the extra rows needed when you work the front chart. I think leaving the back chart as is and starting the front chart earlier would also work but you might not like the offset of the two charts on front and back.
Or you could continue as is but extend the armhole by 4cm. That would mean accounting for the extra armhole depth when you work the sleeve cap. That cap would have to be longer in order to fit the longer armhole.
I have completed the chart on the back and I did start it at the armhole cast-offs which is how I know that it only took 11 rows after the 39 rows of the chart to reach 20cm before the shoulder shaping begins. This is where I am at the present. I measured the armhole from the cast-offs straight up until 20cm was reached. Was this right? I’ll try to download a photograph which shows my lifeline and the 11 rows which complete the 20cm.
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One other thing to try is to contact Wendy and ask about this pattern. I couldn’t find errata online but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist.
In the meantime, take a look at the instructions for neck shaping for the front and see how many of the 22 rows are needed for the shaping. Can you slightly widen the neck to make up for some of the depth? You want to be able to easily put the neck over your head. Maybe a small amount of shaping at the back neck would help with that too.
It may be that the simplest solution is to lengthen the front and back by 10-11 rows. That way you can fit the chart and work the neck shaping. The only adjustment would be the sleeve. Is there a sleeve cap or is it a kind of set-in drop sleeve? Is there a pattern schematic?
The sweater looks so nice so far. We just need a way around this front shaping.
Is there any kind of schematic that shows the shape of the pieces? The wording “Work straight until 22 rows less have been worked on back to start of shoulder shaping” is very odd. The front neck should be lower than the back neck, so the shoulder strap would be longer, which might be what is meant, but it’s very unclear.
Thank you for bearing with me. Everything sounds very complicated to me and lengthen the front and back is going to make this jumper too long. I’m getting so boggled and frustrated with it now. I’ll upload a photograph of the instructions about shaping the front neck as I just can’t work it out. I’m wondering if I’m interpreting the instructions about working 22 rows less correctly. The start of the chart do begin at the cast off for the armholes as the pattern directs.
OK, that neck shaping is indeed going to take about 22 rows. I’m concerned that if you deleted some of the rows, the neck opening will be too small so that possibility is doubtful.
How is the sleeve top shaped? It may not be that difficult to change the shape to fit the armhole. Hopefully you have enough yarn since any extension is going to use more yarn.
See also what suggestions Wendy Wool has. They should support their pattern.
Can you compare the knitted pieces to a jumper you have that’s the right size? Looking at the pattern picture, the front neck starts very close to the antlers of the reindeer. Maybe you’re only supposed to be working the shoulder shaping on one side at this point, rather than all the way across? The back neck would come rather higher and have fewer rows of shoulder.
Thank you for getting back to me. I’m now going clean up the wall. I’ve tried to contact Wendy Wools using the form you supplied for me, but just got the message that there was something wrong with my message, but there’s no indicator what was wrong. There’s an email I could use but whether this will go to the appropriate place I do not know. There’s nothing wrong with my tension, so can’t understand this at all.