I have finally found a pattern I like on knittingpatterncentral.com and it calls for Jaeger extra fine merino aran 50gm Is that wool? I can’t wear wool so I need some suggestions on what yarn to buy. I have never learnt my yarns and I find it difficult to switch to something else. I usually get what the pattern calls for. Also, the only gauge is given after blocking, 18sts and 26 rows in cable pattern to 4" using larger needles. The pattern is under women’s sweaters and it is called argyle v neck sweater, third down from the left(red) What do you think? Can I just buy yarn that says 18sts =4" I have not made a sweater in 20yrs and am very nervous about starting. It even has a chart to follow(hope I can remember how to do it)
An aran weight yarn is a heavy worsted weight. www.yarndex.com is a good place to search for substitutes.
Is this how you buy your yarn? No wonder I can’t find anything here in the small shop in town. So heavy worsted means 18sts =4"? and is that different because they said 18sts over pattern? How can you tell the true colour of yarn :shrug: from the web site? or the feel of it or is it all the same because it is heavy worsted. Man, am I lost when it comes to yarn. I have not purchased anything before from a web site. Is it American and does that mean I have to pay more to bring it up here(Canada) this is a pic of the swatch (after blocking) I am to measure my stitches from. First, I have never blocked before second, when I measured gauge before I just knit a small swatch 6x4 and checked sts per inch. Boy, did I ever get lucky years ago because all my sweaters turned out ok. I read a article on blocking so now I know how to do it. :shrug:
Ok, so I looked at yarndex and am a little confused about heavy worsted yarn. Most of the heavy worsted yarn is 14sts-16sts=4"
http://magknits.com/May06/patterns/argyle.htm THis pattern says 18sts =4" in cable pattern using larger needles. Is it 18sts because it is blocked and patterend? There is a big difference between 14sts and 18sts =4" When I make my swatch which I plan on doing , how many sts do I cast on and where do I start? I use to just do plain knitting to check tension I have not read a pattern in years so to just pick a section to check tension is a little confusing to me. Once I start it I am sure I can do it with your help.
I think yarn label gauges are only gauges to identify the weight/thickness of a yarn, and patterns might use needles that are a size or two larger or smaller than what’s used for the label gauge. Most people do about a 6x6 inch swatch and then measure the 4 inch gauge in the middle. I usually do about 20 or stitches and only knit 2-3 inches because the row gauge isn’t as important as the stitch gauge.
sue
Thanks, I was not thinking about the needle size, I was just thinking that heavy worsted yarn would all be the same sts=4" When I look at the pattern where do I find the repeat pattern to make a swatch without BO all the stitches :shrug:
Not all yarns within a specific weight (Aran) are going to be exactly the same. There is a range for each weight. You have to experience with swatching to match the gauge. You may need to knit with a different size needle than what the pattern states to achieve the right gauge.
By the way, Merino wool yarn is very soft. People who cannot wear regular wool next to the skin can sometimes wear Merino.
Not all yarns within a specific weight (Aran) are going to be exactly the same. There is a range for each weight. You have to experience with swatching to match the gauge. You may need to knit with a different size needle than what the pattern states to achieve the right gauge.
By the way, Merino wool yarn is very soft. People who cannot wear regular wool next to the skin can sometimes wear Merino.
To make a swatch in the pattern, look at the beginning of the pattern; there’s usually a section before the instructions to cast on that tells you how to do the pattern. If you have a link, you can post it here and we can see where it is.
sue
http://magknits.com/May06/patterns/argyle.htm Here is the site for the red sweater(Argyle). If I am understanding it right I should cast on 24sts using 4.5mm needle and start at the bottom right corner of the green box and repeat that two times. Is that big enough to check the tension? I guess I am nervous because I have not made a sweater in 20 years. I feel a little silly asking such a simple question.
I think that will be good to check the tension–you swatch should be a bit over 4 x 4 so you can get a measurement that doesn’t include the edge stitches.
I just went on yarndex again and am I ever upset because every yarn I like is wool. Is alpaca wool? So I had to take second best. These are the four that look the closest to wool(I think) Twin 60%cotton 40%acrylic. Cotofilo 88%cotton,12%elite (elastic), Newport 100%cotton and Goa 50%cotton50%acrylic. I like the tan and brown colours or rusty. Since I don’t know my yarns, what do you think? Are any of these any good or can you suggest something else. What is cotton like? Does it stretch out or keep it’s shape. The one with the elite(elastic) does that mean it will really stretch out? I picked plain over varigated because my sweater has an all over “shadow” argyle pattern. So many questions. :??
[color=darkred]I’m so glad there are many people who really don’t understand what can be substituted for what. I’m unable to figure this out too.
Are there charts that explain what to do with knowing the weight and lenght of the yarn, to know how much to buy, based on that. I want to make a scarf, and someone on this site suggested Zyphir, which I looked for on-line and found yarn I like, but I don’t know how to know how much. this is the first time I’m trying something without a pattern.
Also I now know the Zephir, which should be a fine yarn, but is it baby yarn, the next listed on the chart at Lion Brand? How can I find out generally the weight of specific yarns, especially buying on line?
Does anyone even understand my question? I’m confused too[/color] :??
As far as the Zephyr goes, it comes in two weights – laceweight (like knitting with hair) and DK weight. This chart should help you understand the weight system a little more – though it’s not an exact science. When you’re looking at yarn online they should ba able to provide some shred of info that will help you find it on that chart! 
Alpaca is not wool. Wool, by definition comes from sheep. Alpaca comes from – alpacas. Many people who are allergic to wool have no problem with alpaca. It’s lovely, soft and very warm.
Camel’s hair, llama and cashmere yarn also come from animals other than sheep, and they are less allergenic than wool.
BUT: a lot of wool “allergies” are really just sensitivities to any scratchy, rough fiber. or to lanolin. You don’t know if you have a true allergy unless you’ve been tested. Merino wool, which comes from a special breed of sheep, is very soft, and many people who think they can’t wear any wool have no problem with it.
You can also wear a layer of another fiber next to your skin to neutralize any possible allergic reaction – a camisole, a t-shirt, a scarf at the neck, etc.
I’ve heard that some wool allergies can come from the dyes, too. So maybe undyed wool might be a good thing to check out.
sue
Thanks so much for that last info I will keep it on file when I go wool shopping. I did not know what alpaca was. Someone told me it was wool. I do not think I have an alergy but I get ichy especially around my neck. Looking at the chart I understand that if a pattern says “sport” I should look for something in the range of 23-26sts, is that correct? What throws me off is when a pattern calls for something in 18sts=4" using a 4.5mm needle and I find something that has 18sts=4" but on a 6mm needle is that the same because it has the same amount of stitches or does it have to have the same needle size too? :shrug:
Candy, I think the discrepancy in the case of your pattern is because it specifies the gauge as “worked in pattern” and it’s aran – cables and such “pull” together a lot, so your gauge is much different than if you were knitting in stockinette stitch. When you see yarndex or a yarn site giving a recommended gauge, it’s for stockinette – they don’t take lacework or cablework into account. That’s why it’s really important to do that swatch!
thanks a lot that helps