Should I be using blocking needles to block out my gauge swatches? To even out the edges at least? Do I only need to do that if I can’t meet gauge without it? does blocking with blocking needles stretch out/damage the fabric?
For stockinette sweaters, should I also be using blocking needles? I’ve realized that over the last couple years I’ve gotten very lazy and don’t really use blocking needles unless the item has lace. “Wet blocking” to me just means soacking the sweater, gently squeezing out the water via the towel method and then laying it down nicely on blocking mats. But I’m wondering if I need to rethink that…
I block everything I knit or crochet, including swatches. If it’s close to the right size, I don’t stretch it much, but I always use knit blockers, T-pins, and/or blocking wires. If it’s any kind of lace, I stretch it quite a lot to open up the pattern. Blocking wires in the edges ensure I get straight edges with fewer pins.
The knit blockers at your link shouldn’t damage your item, unless you REALLY stretch it out, and even then they’re better than individual pins because they don’t pull on just one point. If you need to stretch a swatch that much to make gauge, you’d be better off with a different size needle.
You probably don’t NEED to pin everything down, as long as you treat the swatch the same way you’re going to treat the finished item. I just feel it usually gives a crisper finish.
It also depends on the yarn you’re using. I’m not sure about acrylic, I think it works best with a little steam from a distance. Natural fibers can be wet blocked or spray blocked. There are several videos with tips about all of this.
I don’t use pins or blockers for a few reasons but I do think they make for a crisper more professional finish.
I do as you do and soak, squeeze, lay flat and leave to dry. For me it’s not possible to have a piece reblocked or shaped after laundering so I treat my projects basically the way they will be treated when laundered (which is a very non-precious way in our house, i also choose yarn i think will survive the laundering).
For swatches I make them big, the bigger the better, if the edges are curled it doesn’t matter because they are big enough to take measurements from the centre which is not curled.
I used to be gentle and precious with swatches and then realised it wasn’t helpful. Now I bash them about a bit and I get a better idea of how the fabric will look after some wear and washing.
I still have a size/gauge problem when the weight of a garment pulls down significantly with gravity and changes the gauge in the finished project. That’s something I am trying to keep in mind more with swatches.