Hello
Thank you for your speedy reply. The pattern is a Rowan, felted tweed, Gianna.
Welcome to the KnittingHelp forum! ...Introduce yourself!
The various projects on Ravelry show that knitters have worked this V-neck differently. Some have worked the pattern as written and others have used a centered double decrease at the V. That is a nice decrease which you might try on a swatch just to see if you like the looks.
See this project:
https://www.ravelry.com/projects/pauline19/gianna
Here is a video for the decrease in case you need it.
https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/center-double-decrease-explained/
First time here and have a question. I am knitting a top down children sweater size 6/7 and now working on the sleeves. The directions do not include any decreases for the sleeves. I have never seen a pattern without decreases for the sleeves. Do you think this is deliberate in the style of the sweater or a mistake in the pattern?
Welcome to KH!
What is the name of your pattern and designer?
It’s certainly possible that the sleeves aren’t shaped on a sweater depending on the style. If you would like to add decreases to the sleeves you can also do that.
Thanks for your response. It’s Hobbi children’s Rainbow sweater. I am not sure how to figure number of decreases if I go that route or just follow directions I am afraid if I don’t decrease the sleeves will be too wide. I currently have 58 stitches for the sleeves to fit a very petite 6 and a half year old. Top of the sleeve is 4&1/2 inches wide. Circumference 9 inches
This method basically uses the circumference at the top of the sleeve and that at the wrist before the rib. Knowing your stitch gauge you can figure out how many sts you want to decrease to get from top measurement to that at the bottom of sleeve. Knowing your row gauge you can then find out how frequently you’ll need to decrease. Both stitch and row gauge can be measured from the back of the sweater already knit.
This is a good guide but it need not be as involved as this tutorial makes it seem. You just want to taper the sleeve a bit so it’s not so wide at the wrist.
Thanks!
Hello
The sleeve on the pattern pic does look wide at the wrist to me. I would also want to taper it.
There is also this knitting calculator which is free and easy to use so long as you know your stitch and row gauge (use piece already knitted to find out as salmonmac suggested).
You input the number of stitches at the top of the sleeve (after the underarm), the number of stitches you want at the bottom to get the right width,and the number of rows to decrease over (usually leaving few cm at top and bottom for straight section).
There are a few calculators on the page, make sure you scroll down to the correct one
DECREASE STITCHES TO TAPER A STANDARD SLEEVE
Here’s the link
https://www.worldknits.com/knitting-calculators
Hi I’m trying to ask a question on a pattern and Aldo trying yo send a pic of it but can’t seem to be able to do
Looks like you managed in the end.
Welcome to the forum.
Hi I’m new and just getting to know how to navigate this site .it confuses me a little but I’m sure I’ll get through it eventually . Thank you for letting me join
1 Like
Welcome Carrie1959!
If we can help answer questions about the site or about knitting we’ll be happy to. Thank you for joining us.
Hello and thank you: I’m already overwhelmed with so much info on the forum and where to start…lol. I wanna know it all yesterday. To say it’s been a few days of discovery for this old lady with AI is an understatement. I’ve gotten this far maybe help is closer than I think. I have been knitting a toy bear from a translated pattern and the following body decrease instructions are confusing even with a vid available: Begin decreasing for the sides. We will decrease stitches under the central side stitch (the central stitch is always on top).
We make decreases every 4th row (i.e., make a decrease, then 3 rows without decreases, and in the 4th row make a decrease). To ensure that our row with decreases remains exactly on the side and does not shift, we will alternate the decreases.
47th (31st) row. 1 decrease. Decrease the stitch from the front, and from the second side decrease the stitch from the back.
In the next row with decreases, we knit them the opposite way.
In total, we make 11 decreases on each side. Then, knit 3 rows of knit stitches. In the next row, we will remove 3 stitches.
In the 4th row, do not knit the stitch before the central side stitch. Make a double decrease (remove the central side stitch with the stitch from the front so that the central stitch is on top, knit the stitch from the back as a knit stitch and pull it through the 2 removed stitches). Repeat this 2 more times (40 stitches). Place the stitches on a waste yarn.
Welcome to the forum!
Lots going on with that bear. You’ll make the decreases on every 4th row. For the smaller size, decrease on rows 47,51,55,59,63,67,71,75,79,83 and 87 for example.
Decrease the stitch at the side marker on the first side of the bear using the 2 stitches to the front of the marker and then make the decrease at the second side of the bear at the second side marker using two stitches from the back of the bear.
On the next decrease row, the sides will alternate. The decrease on the bear’s first side will incorporate a stitch from the back of the bear and on the second side, a stitch from the front of the bear.
Following these 11 decreases and 3 rows of knit stitches are centered double decreases (CDD). Centered double decreases use 3sts and decrease 2 of the stitches. To do this make sure the second stitch of the 3 is designated the central stitch. Here’s a video for the CDD.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi5JpkOoLCI
If that’s not the part that’s puzzling you, just come back and let us know. What is the name of your pattern and designer or source?
1 Like
Thank you so much for your response, yes it was the part that was making my head hurt. I see now how I interpreted the 11 decreases wrong. I took them as actual stitch decreases instead of the number of rows that I would be making the decreases on and I had no idea what to do about alternating the decreases. I captured this little toy bear pattern from a YouTube vid at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEh6QNlcffs&t=914s and have no idea who the designer is since the written pattern given at the end of the video does not have a name for the bear or the designer. So I am not sure if the youtuber is the designer or the MK instructor. I did learn of an unusual BO stitch that she used on the muzzle which I will use in other projects. Im going to get going with your instructions and If I have ?'s you are going to be my best new friend…Thank you again.
1 Like
Thank you for the link and for joining the forum!
1 Like
Hi I’m Norma and I’m a fairly experienced knitter but I am struggling with an instruction about increasing on a sleeve
1 Like
the instruction is to increase one stirch at each end of the fifth row, then one at each end of each alternate sixth row. Does this mean increase on every 12th row?
Hi morma5 and welcome to KnittingHelp!
What is the name of your pattern and designer? Can you exactly quote the entire increase row? It may include how many times to work these increases for example.