twisted joining in the round

#1

Hi all,
For the first time I have encountered the dreaded 'twisted" joined in the round syndrome. I have cast on 192 stitches 3 separate times, only to find that my knitting is, indeed twisted. (192 stiches!)

The first time was on a 24" cable and the second two times were on a 40" cable (I thought that would solve the problem - it didn’t)

The 40" cable was being used for the first time so it was very curly and I suspect that was part of the problem. I am now in the process of straightening it and I guess I will try one more time with the straightened cable. But I admit I am nervous and frustrated and don’t want to make this be a thing where I avoid joined in the round projects.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

#2

Oh, ugh. I hate when that happens.
There are a few tricks that may help. If you can, knit back and forth for a few rows then join to knit in the round. It’s easier to see whether the knitting is twisted after a few rows. There’ll be a short seam to close up with the yarn tail but that’s preferable to having to start over.
You might also try pinning the knitting to a blocking board or soft mat. That helps if it’s many stitches and you’re dealing with a curling cable.
Remember to check after the first round and before you start the second. It’s your last chance to avoid a twist since the round is only connected by a single strand. If everything started out properly aligned, recheck at this point anyway since you can inadvertently introduce a twist on round one. This is a chance to correct.
Good luck with it. Straightening out the cable will certainly help with so many sts.

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#3

This may seem really off the wall but for me, if I really feel the need to join itr for the first round, a twisted cast on (Old Norwegian/twisted German) is easier to join without twisting. There’s an edge that’s easier to see and run my fingers over to be sure it’s positioned correctly, almost like a row of knitting. That said I’ve a project somewhere that fell into UFO status that is twisted. I tried every trick I could find and still after several rounds found it twisted. I think that yarn just wants to be something else.

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#4

192 is big but half that is 96.

I have been working on a variation of the tubular rib cast on from 3 rows of flat knit in waste yarn.
(Here is s link to a previous post with video and image of my test knit. )

Cast on half the desired stitch count in contrasting waste yarn. (If you needed an odd count of 99, then you would just round up to 100 before dividing.)

Work flat 3 rows in stockinette in contrasting waste yarn. The waste yarn becomes your handle to keep it from twisting.
Row 1: Join working yarn and k across. (WS or inside)
Note: this creates purl bumps on the stockinette side of the contrasting waste yarn that are easy to pick up in row 3 for your increase.
Row 2: (RS or outside/public side) work odd numbered stitches in your pattern. (Example: K across for a 1x1 rib)
Row 3: work in your desired pattern picking up an increase between each stitch by working into the purl bump one row below in main working color.
Row 4 to 6: Place marker and join in the round working in your pattern (seed, moss, garter, rib, or stockinette)

After 6 or more rows completed in your pattern you can then pick out the last row of waste yarn and the edge will be stable & stretchy with no ridge from a cast on.

You can rework the last row of the waste yarn to reuse with a second pannel front & back or sleeves, sock pairs, hats, gloves, etc. It helps me keep my stitch counts matching on my pair items.

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#5

That twisted cast on is pretty.
I’m not great at getting even tension along the cast on row with any long tail cast on so would likely fail at this more advanced variation. The cable cast on gives a nice edge which is a bit thicker and easier to position for joining too, in a similar way.

@Claudia1 I feel your pain. I’ve cast on 200 stitches 4 or 5 times now… I did not get them twisted but had other problems. Pulling it all out gets tiresome doesn’t it? Especially when you just want to sit and knit.

OffJumpsJack’s idea sounds like a good one. I was looking at that method myself recently…but didn’t have the energy to go ahead with something so new to me.

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#6

OffJumpsJack,
Thank you for the heads up and the video (that was helpful in explaining the knit from the row below part)

I am going to try one more time to do a regular long tail cast on, with the cable that is now much straighter. If I need to go the waste yarn and twisted cable route, that will be my next attempt.

#7

Salmonmac,
After the somewhat straightened cable, I tried the “pin the work to a soft surface” idea and I believe that did the trick. I just finished completing the first row and joined (after carefully checking my work two or three times mid round) and think I am good to go. I will know for sure after I knit the second round, which is a purl round (garter stitch for the first 5 rounds). Thank you for the tip and I’ll keep you all posted.

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#8

Yay! for you! My fingers are crossed that all goes well. Last night I decided I have to make gloves so I figured out how many stitches I need, cast on for two at a time magic loop and got started on the ribbed cuffs. I messed up so I said this is the last time I’m starting over for the last time. Two or three more times of this is the last time I’m starting over for the last time I think I finally got it. I do hope the last time really was the last. On the bright side I figured out how to start knitting a couple rows flat with two at a time.

#9

GrumpyGramma,
Hooray! I hear your pain - I was right there with you the other night, but you’re right: once you get past the frustration, the new knowledge is extra sweet!

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#10

What are you knitting? I trust your project is still going well. I look forward to seeing it.

I just had a thought, wonder if it might have merit. I could start that first round with a new yarn. It wouldn’t actually be joined until the next round and there would be extra tails to weave in but it might effectively combine working a row or two before joining itr with working the first round as it would normally be worked. The joining would happen after the end of the first round, at the start of the second. This is something I might try with a huge number of stitches like you have, not for a small project like I’ve got in my lap now.

#11

Oddly enough I found it easier to get a more even cast on with a twisted long tail cast on than the basic long tail cast on. That might just apply to me because I’m me. Me is not necessarily much like other knitters. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: I’m OK with that but it can make sharing thoughts difficult.

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#12

No, I agree with you about the German twisted cast on. It adds more yarn to the cast on to make it stretchier but also deeper. That makes it easier to align the cast on row. It’s a go to cast on for me too.

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#13

It’s interesting the little things we pick up as we knit, isn’t it? I love the German twisted cast on in pattern. I used it for the 2x2 rib on my gloves, or maybe mitts or mittens. I’ll see how I feel about fingers when I get there. :wink:

I watched a video which I can’t find now that demonstrated using a backward loop cast on then knitting into it to complete what is supposedly the same thing. I thought I should try it but working into the backward loops was not working so I gave up on it.

#14

I’m knitting a cowl (large, as opposed to small) - called Stickley and it also has a hat to go with, which I may or may not do. I’ve finished the second round and think I’m good to go

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#15

I like that pattern. I’m thinking of doing the hat version.
https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-au/p/stickley-cowl-knitting-pattern-by-nina-machlin-dayton

#16

Fluffy Yarn,
One of the things that caught my eye about the pattern is the beautiful contrast of the blue and apple green yarn used.

Since I have used that combo on other projects many times, I have chosen Malabrigo Rios colorways Volcan and Malabrigo Rios Purple Mystery.

I’m hoping to make serious progress over the Thanksgiving holiday, also making certain to be grateful for this forum and for the ability to buy and make things with the yarns I love, as well as for the health and happiness of my family.

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#17

Even if you get it right when you join, it can get twisted in the first row.

But, if you look at the place where you joined it, you’ll see that it only has one strand of yarn connecting the ends. What this means is that you can untwist it at this point, and all you’re doing is twisting one strand of yarn a bit.

When you get to the beginning of the second round, check it and make sure it hasn’t gotten twisted, and if it has, untwist it.

Even at the beginning of the third round, you can still untwist it, and all you’ll be doing is crossing two strands of yarn, which will not be noticeable.

You don’t have to rip it all out. it’s easy to fix.

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#18

I’m late to the plate, but still wish to offer … I find that mini clothespegs, the ones you can find at the dollar store, clipped to the cast on edge, helps avoid the twist. The clothespins seem to add a slight weight. There is a photo on my circular knitting pinterest board. I’m new to posting here, so not sure if pinterest links are allowed. If the link below is removed, the address of the pin is pin/150026231321075060.
https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/150026231321075060/

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#19

That’s a great idea

#20

Yes. The blue and green caught my eye. Mine will probably be slate blue with white angora since it’s what I have on hand. But I think a primary blue &regular green would be very pretty.

When I used to dye, I kept trying for a nice primary blue with bright green splashes every 2 yards (one spot in the skein which is 2 yards). I never quite got it. But I’m not an enthusiastic dye person. So I didn’t put all that much effort in it.