Tunisian crochet/crohook

I just learned about Tunisian crochet, but have not seen information about Tunisian crochet using circular needles. Is this possible and does anyone know of instructions or a link to instructions?

Are you talking about something like one of those crochet hooks that have a hook on each end, only with a cable in the middle?

No Marria,
I am referring to #1: a crochet hook with a “stop” on the other end of the actual hook. (Tunisian hook) #2: a crochet hook with a hook on each end. (crohook)

I should have clarified my question. I wondered if, using the hooks I described above, Tunisian crocheting could be done in the round so that, if, for example, you were making a hat, you would not need to join it at the end, with a seam.

… that doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist.

Tunisian crochet is more commonly called the afghan stitch (at least in my social/crocheting circles). Since it involves picking up loops across (R to L) and then (essentially) a crochet bind off (L to R) I don’t see a way to join in the round.

A flexible Crohook (TM of Wrights) or any double ended crochet hook could be used to work the Tunisian (afghan) stitch in-the-round. I found this site about [B][U]circular crochet needles/hooks[/U][/B].

I can visualize joining in the round by working the first and last loops together (would need on extra stitch at CO) or by slip stitch joining the starting chain before picking up the loop. You could do this with one color or with two colors. Using one color (strand) you pick up loops around, then complete the stitches from right to left (from RS of work) or more likely by turning the work and working from the inside or WS to complete the TSS (Tunisian stitch)

[B]A Two Strand Method[/B]:
You could use two strands of your color or two colors. One strand would be used at each end of the double ended crochet hook. Using contrast color or first strand of main color, You could do any of the knitting CO methods you choose or start with a crochet chain. Once you have loops pulled up across (or CO) then you would join (slip stitch or work two loops together). Join in your second strand (or main color) and complete the stitches. The second strand (or color) would then “chase” the first strand (or color) around the work.

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[B][U]Annie’s Attic article on crochet on the double[/U][/B] (alias of crohook and double ended crochet hooks) appears to give a background on these circular hooks and crocheting at both ends of a double pointed hook (straight or circular).

Let us know what you find and how your project goes.


I spent some time pondering this.

Tunisian and Crochet-on-the-double are similar but not the same. You have to turn the work to do Crochet-on-the-double and it’s 2 sided (generally worked in a color pattern for each side). Tunisian is a matter of working up one way to get loops on the hook and then working back to get them off, it is one sided.

I think Crochet-on-the-double cabled hooks are more for dealing with weight than working in the round. My long Crochet-on-the-double hooks do get a little weighty dealing with a 6’ afghan.

To my way of thinking to do it in the round you would be using the Crochet-on-the-double hook but working like Tunisian, instead of turning like with Crochet-on-the-double you would work backwards half the time so that you’re always spiraling the same direction.

Otherwise you could cheat it “in the round” where you would actually be seaming by twisting as you go.
Do do Crochet-on-the-double in the round with a decrease to nothing would be impossible because you couldn’t turn once you got down to nothing.

If you’re thinking of fuzzy yarn for a fuzzy hat, I find the wrong side of Tunisian is the more fuzzy side. So if that is your intent you might want to do a swatch so you know if you’re going to be turning it inside out when you’re done.

I hadn’t thought of the Tunisian looking different from the WS (which has an apperance similar to reverse stockinette). Turning the work and then working with a second strand of yarn is what makes the Cro-hook (or crochet on the double) reversible and having both sides look alike.

There is also Crochenit which uses a double ended hook. Here is a free [B][U]basic stitch tutorial[/U][/B] from Crochenit.com and I also found a video for a [B][I]bedspread technique[/I][/B] that shows how to use a 14" double ended hook to make fabric in any width. That would eliminate some weight from the hook (one reason for a cable) and keep the working width shorter (another reason for a 40" cable). But it doesn’t address joining in the round (as in tube shape rather than decreasing to a dome shape for a hat or even flat circular shapes.)

Some time ago I remember seeing (on the Internet) point covers in red and green to place on opposite ends of your double ended hooks. Place a red cover/cap on the non-working end as a stop or stitch keeper as you pick up loops. If you set your work down, you can put a green cap on the working end, so when you return you can easily remember which way you were working. Green for go and red for stop. Then when you reach the end of a row you move the red cap and turn your work to use the un-capped end to work off your loops.

Okay, if you work the bedspread technique on a joined starting chain, you could just continue to spiral around a tube. I’ve not done this but would suspect it to have two different sides like Tunisian stitches.