[COLOR=“DarkOrchid”]:waving: I have a lovely niece. She’s petit and is a ballerina. She asked my Mom if she would knit her some legwarmers but Mom cannot knit any more so I thought I’d take up the torch and knit them for her.
Here’s my question…
The pattern that I got off the internet is called Trois in the Berroco Pattern Library and it calls for them to be knit on straights. I think this is because of the fancy pattern in the middle - which I don’t want to do. I just want to use some varigated yarns there with plain colour on the top and bottom of the leg. (is this possible?):shrug:
Well, I’ve just had a chat with my niece and got her measurements.
According to the pattern, the smallest ankle is 11", she’s 8", the smallest width at the knee is 14" and she’s 11". The length is supposed to be 21" and she is only 16 1/2".
I know how to shorten the length to 16 1/2" but not how to go lower than 11" or 14".
Also want to know if it is possible for me to knit this in the round - I’m thinking dpn’s here - instead of on straights so that there are no seams. I think this would be much more comfortable for her.
Also what about the yarn?
I’m thinking at 22 sts to 4"… that could be dk or something like that.
What can you suggest?
Love to you all,
TEMA:knitting:
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Here’s a free one on Bernat…but, it’s not in the round http://www.bernat.com/pattern.php?PID=1594
[COLOR=“DarkOrchid”]Thank you, SgtPam, but I already have a pattern… just kind of wondering how I can get it even smaller than it already is…
TEMA:knitting: [/COLOR]
TEMA-
Can you post a link directly to the pattern? That will help us help you better.
Ok nevermind I just found the pattern. Well it looks like you cast on an additional 4 sts for each size you go up (and each size differs by 1"). So you need to go down 3 sizes based on what they have going on there to get to a 8" measurement. So you need to do 12 less sts than the smallest size (in other words cast on 50 sts). And when you to the increase row for the knee you’ll have 52 sts.
You can google search for converting patterns in the round.
I would do these in the round for sure.
Hope that helps.
Oh one more thing, and then when you finish all the increases you’ll have 66 sts.
I found this leg warmer pattern for a 9-12 year old child. It is made in the round and uses worsted weight yarn. It is real simple. LINK The yarn they are shown in is a self patterning yarn, but it is all just one skein.
I know you said you have a pattern, but it might just be easier to use a pattern already in the round and already in the correct sizes.
[COLOR=“DarkOrchid”]Oh, dear, I can see that I haven’t explained this all very well. :shrug: :think:
My niece is a young lady in her 20’s. She wants the pattern I have found for her because of the way the legwarmers look - they hug the leg very well and fall fetchingly over the heel, not the least bit floppy.
They have to be exact… or as exact as I can make them so that they will be stylish but allow her to practice.
Ittybitty… thank you so much for the math… not my strong subject :teehee: and I will look up how to change this pattern to circulars instead of straight.
I’m thinking knitting on circulars will be a bit tighter since I don’t have to do the purl st.
I’d also like to do them in a not-too chunky yarn - maybe a dk or something like that.
Anyway, I guess they are going to be a blue of some sort…
Thanks so much for all the replies…
TEMA:knitting: [/COLOR]
Whatever yarn you use, you [B][U][I]must[/I][/U][/B] make sure that the gauge you get is the gauge they list in the pattern because otherwise, the calculations I gave you will mean nothing. You can convert a pattern for different sized yarns, but that is a whole other can of worms that I can’t help with when it comes to adjusting the increases.
[COLOR=“DarkOrchid”]Thanks for the advice, Ittybitty…
So far, I’ve done 3 swatches trying to get the gauge and each one is just a bit off… thinking of switching to a larger needle since I’m just a bit under the gauge they give.
I keep coming up with 7" instead of 8"… not to worry, tho’, I will find my gauge… and I’ve got lots of time.
I really appreciate your advice tho… since I might have been leaning just a little towards just getting the thing done…:teehee: The swatches I’ve been doing are the ribbing at the start of the legwarmer and I really like the K2,P2 rib that is coming out of it - so that’s a good sign.:woot:
TEMA:knitting: [/COLOR]
You must do your gauge [U]in the stitch[/U] that they recommend. the pattern says 22 sts = 4”; 24 rows = 4” in [U][I][B]St st[/B][/I][/U], which is stockinette stitch. If you’ve been trying to gauge swatch doing ribbing, the ribbing pulls in and you’ll always come out smaller.
You have to gauge swatch in stockinette, and you only have to knit 5 inches wide, not 8" (because you want to measure 4" within the 5", you never want to measure edge to edge)
So when you measure your 4 inches you should get 22 sts, and 24 rows.
To get a 5" swatch, you need to caluclate how many stitches to cast on. So 22 sts/4 sts per in = 5.5 sts per inch, you want something that measures 5" so multiply 5" x 5.5 sts per inch= 27.5 sts.
So round up and cast on 28 sts to get a 5 in. swatch. You’ll save your self more time by not knitting 8".
On a side note, if you did in fact decide to knit this pattern in the round, this is what knittinghelp.com has to say about making a gauge swatch in the round:
[CENTER][I]“
Thankfully, there is a trick to working a gauge swatch for knitting in the round. You knit a flat stockinette sample using all the knit stitch by doing the following: *knit a row; slide the work to the other end of the circular needle or DPN; leaving a long strand of yarn in back. Repeat from *. If you leave the strand in back long enough, you can use it up by knitting with it for a row. This removes the strands from dangling behind the swatch, but is entirely optional. In any case, the end of the row will be loose and messy, so add about four stitches to your swatch to accommodate this.”[/I][/CENTER]