# Toe Up Socks: When to Turn the Heel?

I’m doing my first pair of toe-up socks and you’ve all been so helpful so far. Well now I’m working on the gusset. I love trying them on as I go but now I’m wondering: at one point should I stop the gusset and start turning the heel?

I’m using this pattern but with a sport weight yarn on size 4 needles so I’m thinking my sock will be bigger over all and thus perhaps not need to go all the way to 74 stitches…or if I just kept going it would be too long.

I’ll include a pic to show you where it currently falls on my foot. Do you think I should keep going with the gusset til 74 stitches or turn the heel sooner? (I’m at 64 stitches right now)
Thanks!

Oh yeah. That sock, with the odd heel… I’ve never done it myself, but I do remember reading about it. Here is some info from the designer about how to adapt for different numbers of stitches. Hopefully that’s helpful to you. I’m not enough of a math-head to understand it, but maybe you do.

You could also just try using this calculator to convert the original stitch and row counts to match your new gauge.

Thanks! That looks like it’s gonna be helpful.
I guess I should specify I was hoping for a roundabouts answer…something like: when the goes past your arch, or wait until it almost goes to your heel or something like that.

Anybody have a good general guide?

One guideline I see often is “where the foot meets the ankle,” (or something similar). If you understand what that means, let me know. :shrug:

What I usually end up doing is figuring out how many rows it’ll take to do the heel, and then convert that to inches based on my row gauge. I start the heel when I’m that much away from the total foot length, if that makes sense.

I made those socks. I did them on a 3mm needle. You continue the gusset until the bottom portion (bottom of foot) is at the end of your heel. It looks like you need about an 1" or so. I would stop about a 1/4" before hand or check as you go cause you want to sock foot, just slightly smaller then your foot so that it fits snug and doesn’t sag.
Jeesh I sound about as clear as mud. :doh:
Does the yarn you are using have stretch to it? If so stop the bottom of the foot about 1/4" before the end of your foot. If not you will want it the same length as your foot.
See below, hope it helps

OOh! Super, thanks!

I actually had a fight with these socks last night and I’m going to have to frog a few rows :verysad: But I’m determined to make them work. I’m not really liking either of the directions for the heels…but I’ll give it a go.

Ah trust the pattern as it is written, they really do turn out good, its kind of a reverse gusset, the fit is incredible on them.

I would suggest going down a needle size to get the tension tighter.

Mmm…I might, but I don’t have 3s. Good excuse to get some though :happydance:

If you don’t like the Widdershins heel, you might want to take a look at the round heel for toe up socks. It’s very similar, except that it uses only short rows instead of short rows and increases. There is no picking up of stitches. Knitty’s Baudelaire seems to be an adaptation of the RH (round heel) except that she uses wrap & turn – those instructions may or may not be easier to understand. I’ve done the RH with both wrap and turn and with encroachment with good results. (Of course I didn’t find the Baudelaire instructions until after I unvented the w&t RH myself!) I think the original instructions, as written, make use of Japanese short rows – I’m not sure because I do mine a little differently, with safety pins, a la Nona. I may try it that way next time.

The reason I mention the RH is because I think it’s easier to adapt to other stitch counts than the Widdershins – you just have to do short rows until you get down to 1/3 of the # of original sole stitches.