SYLVI-KAL: The Ultimate Coat!

Knit-Alongs
81

Thank you. You’re very encouraging! I appreciate it!

This is my first KAL so I guess I thought the “AL” part meant we should all be keeping together, LOL … :slight_smile:

I am glad you’re breaking the trail, I like the alternate cuffs you’ve posted better than the idea of the original.

Hey, if I do both cuffs at once is there any reason I couldn’t knit both sleeves at once on two circs? I’ve done that before for mittens. That way I could make sure they were both the same length, etc … and I’d be assured I wouldn’t end up with a one-armed coat, LOL.

82

[COLOR=Blue]I’d say no,[/COLOR] cuz you have to use 2 circs to knit one sleeve by itself! And, it would also be hard to do two sleeves at once even when you pass the BIND OFF 7 and begin the shape cap regions, cuz the first half of the sleeve cap doesn’t like “FLAT” at all. It curves in a “U” shape because it wants to be in the round like it was within the sleeve. You’ve cut it’s umbilical cord with the BIND OFF 7…but it still lingers to be part of the sleeve! :teehee:

To assure that they are the same length, just make notes about when you did what ,and on what round, or, on what row. Did you notice how I install red yarn markers that mark off every 10th round or row? This eliminates endless counting and counting and recounting rounds or rows. When you finish Sleeve #1, don’t remove the row markers. (Use whatever contrasting thread or yarn you have around). Leave them be until you are done with Sleeve #2. With your NOTES and your rounds/row markers, your two sleeves will be identical!

For example, in my NOTES:
I picked up the 39 st aound the cuff, joined, and seeded for 29 rounds to equal *8". Then I began my increase rows. They were all completed by Round 54 and my sleeve is now 49st around.
(*8" for my SYLVI cuz I am shortening the sleeves drastically)

Etc.

I make a note of EVERY MILESTONE as the sleeve progresses. I have a notebook with a SLEEVE NOTES page just for SYLVI. Every part of SYLVI has a page of notes just for it by itself! No one gets left out! Otherwise, they’ll take me on Dr. Phil and complain I treated them unfairly and with favoritism! :roflhard:

83

Aww, thank you! You are too sweet!
I will have to try to get a pic tomorrow in the sunlight since the seam isn’t showing.

84

[COLOR=Navy][B]Hi there, slugmom!

[/B][/COLOR]Just knit your gauge swatch to get the correct STITCH GAUGE…and then message me, or post here, about the results of the row gauge that is accompanying your stitch gauge. Sometimes we don’t have the luxury of perfect stitch gauge AND row gauge!

Your stitch gauge is MOST IMPORTANT, and we’ll be able to help you with row gauge if it’s off a bit. At the most, you will have coat that is either a bit shorter or a bit longer than the schematics say. That’s ok!

I am a runt. Only 5’ tall. So, I am very familiar with modifying sleeves to fit my arms. Most ladies don’t have to worry a bit!

What size SYLVI are you making?

Please measure your arms for me, starting at the base of your sideneck, down over your shoulders to your wristbone. Give me that measurement, too. If you need to shorten your sleeves, I know exactly where you can easily eliminate some rows from the sleeves.

I’m here to help you have a well-fitting SYLVI at the least amount of trouble and time! Together we’ll get 'er done! :thumbsup:

85

HEY THERE EVERYONE! :waving:

Am I driving you NUTS with my SLEEVES notes and posts??
I hope not. I am knitting Sleeve #2, and I am changing it again from what I did for Sleeve #1.

Sleeve #1 is just too long, and I detest lonnng sleeves on me.
Mid-hand is fine, but another try-on showed Sleeve#1 hits me
2" too long for my taste. Past mid-hand.

For Sleeve#2, I am shortening it by 2" before I begin the INCREASES.
That’s all. No other changes.

Sleeve #1 is still intact. But, if Sleeve#2 is THE ONE, then I will re-knit Sleeve#1!

Sleeve length is my nemesis. Don’t be misled by reading my insane notes for the SLEEVES. The sleeves for most folks are just the easiest part!

Most knitters can knit a sleeve AS PER EXACT PATTERN and their sleeves always fit fine! Not so with a shrimp like me.

For me, the SLEEVES are the hardest. The rest of the coat should sail along! Just knit it already, Dollyce! :eyes:

86

Even though I’m not making Sylvi, I’ve been reading this thread because I think Artlady has some great tips for knitting in general. Thank you Artlady! I love the idea of inserting the threads for the row markers. I like to torture myself by counting rows, but I think I’m going to have to snag your idea. Did you just insert them with a yarn needle?

87

Thanks ArtLady for posting about the larger size mods. I printed out a copy of the info to put in my pattern notebook! I can’t start Sylvi yet as I’m trying to get some other projects out of the way but I definitely plan to make one at some point haha… And thanks for posting all of your experiences with the sleeves and such. I expect to be having to make my sleeves a bit shorter as well so it helps reading how you have done it!

Ok, now back to knitting so I can finish up and get Sylvi started! :slight_smile:

Libbie

88

Yes, I just keep a yarn needle at the ready. If I’m using a colored thread, I use an crosstitch needle with a round tip.

And, you are most welcome! Glad I’ve been of help! :thumbsup:

89

My second sleeve is perrrrrrfection.

It is overall 25", and the cuff falls about 1.5" below my wristbone.

In knitting sleeve #2, I like my increases better. And I did a different style of decreasing at each end of the sleeve cap rows.

Overall, a much better looking sleeve.

I am gonna frog sleeve #1 tonight. Just back to a row below the increases. I’ll leave 8" including cuff, and work up from there.

If the frogged yarn looks too ill (soft yarns get kinda tired looking from knitting, frogging, knitting, frogging)…then I’ll use the frogged yarn for another JENNY CLOCHE. I have enough extra yarn to redo this sleeve from the 8" length back up to the top.

Part of the game. :eyes:

One of the modifications I made to this sleeve is that I knit til the entire sleeve incl cuff was 10" (not 8") before starting the increases. Then, by the time I reached the end of round 65, it was two rows from the BIND OFF 7 and begin sleeve cap. This pushed the increase rounds up to the top of the armpit. Much better.

Well, I’m off to Ravelry and see what’s up over there in the Sylvi Group!

BTW: someone started a sleeve thread, complaining about that darn cuff overlap! I posted a photo of my cuff and explained why I gave up on the overlap thing.

90

Wow, thanks for all the info Artlady! I went away to finish up my Swallowtail and look at all the activity here! :slight_smile:

Using Cascade 109, I got gauge with size 11 needles. My row gauge is 21 sts to 4". I was hoping at the correct gauge the fabric would be a bit stiffer/ thicker than it is. What I have now is more appropriate for a sweater… I guess I’ll just roll with it.

I took my sleeve measurement. I’m 5’10" and from my side neck over the shoulder and just past the wristbone is 29" for me. I usually have to lengthen sleeves; all my store bought clothes have too-short sleeves. :slight_smile:

91

I just printed out the pattern for the first time. OHHHH MY GOSH I am glad I have you guys at KH to help!

Did anyone see the post on Ravelry asking about the increases not lining up on the sleeve? It’s post #42.http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/sylvi-kal/454206/26-50#43 I think this is what Artlady was mentioning a few posts ago. I assumed the Raveler (night knitting) had messed up, but is that how it’s supposed to look? I’m surprised no one had commented on that!

92

Your row gauge will impact how tall your sleeve cap is by the time all the decreases are accomplished and just 10 st remain.

There are about 52 sleeve cap rows for my size, and using that number of rows and your row gauge to explain it: a sleeve cap with 52 rows would measure 13" by the time you reach 10st remaining. But, with your row gauge, the 52 rows will only be 10". (This is figured by dividing your number of sleeve cap rows by your row gauge per inch, which is 5.25 rows are 1". (21rows = 4" is the same as 5.25rows = 1")

So, with that shortfall, factor in some additional sleeve length just above the cuff but before you begin the increases.

This area ‘above the cuff but before the increases’ is also a good place to shorten a sleeve by knocking out inches.

Can you believe it? My ‘keeper’ sleeve is 9" shorter than the pattern suggested! Goooood Heavens! :doh:

93

I’m lurking too! If I had the time/money/patience to do this coat then I would, it looks amazing and I’m sure you guys will all have gorgeous finished products. Figured I’d read along and pick up the tips if I ever do manage to find the time/money/patience!

94

Thanks for all the tips Artlady!

Slugmom - don’t feel behind. I just started school again - after 10 years - and I work full time, plus I have a 17 year old at home and my DD called me on Thursday night to come pick her up from her now ex BFs house so I’ve had to deal with all that chaos (boy does my living room look like a storage facility - how did she collect so much more stuff in 5 months?) Anyway, the point being I have NOT had time to work much on Sylvi yet so I am only about half way through the first cuff. Needless to say I will be a slowpoke in this KAL too. It’ll benefit us though cus we get to see all the tips from the faster knitters :wink:

95

Hi everybody,

I found this place through the Sylvi group on ravelry. I am Anna from Germany and relatively new to knitting stuff I can actually wear. I fell in love with Sylvi but am a little bit afraid to tackle this alone. I hope it’s not too late to join here.

So far I have bought the pattern, enlarged the charts, and made a few swatches.

I am trying Rowan Cocoon for this because it was the only yarn in my LYS that came close to the requirements. I have made two swatches, one with a 7mm needle, and one with an 8mm needle. With the 7mm I get 13sts and 22 rows in 4". With the 8mm I get 12sts and 21 rows. I like the fabric much more with the 7mm.

So my questions this far would be: Is it at all possible to use this yarn for this project? Would the necessary modifications be very hard to figure out for a person with not so much experience? With which part should I start? And at last, what size should I make? (my bust measures about 44").

I hope it is ok to start off here with this load of questions, sorry.:oo:

96

Hi Anna! Of course you’re welcome to join. I looked up the gauge for Rowan Cocoon and it looks like 4 st = 1". The gauge for Sylvi is 3 st = 1" on 10s (US). I would do test swatches on different sized needles and see what you come up with. :slight_smile:

97

[B]Hi Maureen~[/B] I looked real hard at her sleeve (night knitting) and she just made some boo-boos. I opened her personal SYLVI notebook and read her notes. She finally frogged a bit and re-knit, and her sleeve turned out fine from what I can see. She doesn’t comment on it anymore, that I can find. I’d love to know what she did wrong in the first place, but then…on second thought…maybe I DONT’ wanna know! :roflhard: It has been very helpful reading all the discussions in the SYLVI group, don’t you agree?

[B]Hi AnnaElch~ [/B]I love Rowan Cocoon! In December I made an emerald green Cocoon cardigan using Cocoon! It is delicious yarn! It’s never too late to join us! If your bust measurement is 44", you’d definitely want to make the size XL which is a measurement of 47". That would give you the minimum amount of ease.

Can you post photos of your two swatches? You mentioned that you got the recommended stitch gauge using the 8mm needle, but that you like the look of the 7mm best. (Of course, you knit your swatches in seed stitch!)

Off the top, I’d recommend using the needle that comes closest to the [U]correct stitch gauge[/U] (the 8mm/US11) This coat is already only 3" larger than your actual body measurement, and if you use the 7mm needle your coat will not be 47" around. It would be about 4" less.

Here’s how I calculated: the BACK and two FRONTS (size XL) are 168 stitches for each FRONT and 282 st for the BACK. How do I know? The schematic gives the measurements at the widest part, just before the raglan decreases…so to discover how many stitches it is, multiply [U]the inches in width times 12[/U] st per inch (cuz “12” is the pattern stitch gauge given).

Long story short, the regulation XL SYVLI would measure 51.5" around before seaming and such…your SYLVI using the 7mm needle would be 47.5" before seaming. But what you have to compare is that [U]it is a 4" difference[/U]! That means that a 51.5" unseamed SYLVI comes out to be a 47" wearable SYLVI. Your wearable SYLVI would be 43" around. If your bust is 44", that means that the XL would fit you like a t-shirt. Too tight for a coat.

[B]Remedies & Decisions: [/B] use the 8mm needle and [U]get correct gauge[/U] in the first place. If the 8mm seed stitch swatch is not satisfactory in appearance to your liking, then you have to abandon Cocoon as your yarn and move on. Find another yarn online.[B] OR,[/B] make a bigger size and use Cocoon with the 7mm needle. Twist Collective Blog has posted modifications for larger sizes. See the link in my post #73.

There are ‘yarn substitutions’ discussions in the SYLVI group over at Ravelry. One such yarn is the CASCADE 109. WEBS (at the link I provided) is offering CASCADE 109 for almost half price! Still lots of solid colors to choose from! Oy!

Another good wool yarn is Lamb’s Pride Bulky!

These two yarns are very popular as a substitute for the Briggs&Little “Atlantic” yarn used by the designer.

The SYLVI group has leads on where to get the Briggs&Little Atlantic. Briggs&Little Atlantic IN STOCK. She is the owner of Robyn’s Nest and she is carrying Briggs&Little Atlantic! She is also part of our Ravelry SYLVI group.

Anyhoo, I hope I’ve helped you make important decisions. The right yarn and the correct gauge make all the difference in having a well-fitting coat.
You are a conscientious knitter and I admire that about you!

And don’t be discouraged. We all went through this, too!
The yarn, the gauge, the swatch! Oy! :eyes:

Let us know what you decide to do! We’re here for you! :hug:

98

Wow, thanks for that quick response.
I have looked at the other yarn options, but as I live in Germany they are equally hard to get, so I thought I would check what is available locally first, but if that does not work out I can still try to order the original yarn.

Anyway here are the swatch pictures:

99

PHOTOS! PHOTOS!

Here is Sleeve#2, a keeper!

Closeup of increases and BIND OFF 7 row which begins the sleeve cap:

Sleeve cap, outer arm:

This was Sleeve#1, showing the icky increases:

Sleeve#1 is now a big huge ball of frogged yarn, except
for the cuff and 4 rounds of seed stitch. I’m able to use
the frogged yarn for “the 2nd attempt Sleeve#1”.
The yarn still looks fresh enough. Phew.

100

Anna~

I totally love :heart: your 8mm swatch! I think you have a WINNER! Maybe the 7mm swatch [U]feels[/U] cushier and thicker…but analyzing the two swatches [U]based on appearance[/U], I think both swatches are GREAT! However, the [U]8mm swatch[/U] will give you a coat [U]that you can wear[/U]! I’d say GO FOR IT!

And, btw, I’m just green with envy that you get to use COCOON!
I so totally love :heart: COCOON yarn!

I made this COCOON cardigan (Babette) this December:

So I know how great Cocoon is and how good it [B]feels[/B] to knit with.

It is a dream, and it is my favorite yarn, even over Malabrigo.

My LYS shop owner told me she’s getting in new colors soon.
Sigh.