Beautiful but bet its hard, I’m still a newby
I understand the instructions and why the increases would be necessary inside of the collar; however, when increasing in the 1x1 ribbing I am stumped. Where would the increases be within the ribbing and how many times? I just can’t ‘see’ it in my mind yet. Thanks, anyone, for an explanation…:??
Same question here :??
I’m going with celtic clasps!!
The first 2.5" of the collar is the “public side” and I maintained a perfect 1x1 rib. However, the second 2.5" will be the inside lining of the collar, next to the neck.
So, the M1 increases weirdED out the perfect 1x1 rib, but so what?
Here is how I did the first increase row, worked at about 2.75":
K1 P1 (K1 [B]M1[/B] P1) x 9…then 1x1 rib til the last 20 stitches; then work (P1 [B]M1[/B] K1) x 9, end with P1 K1.
On the next row, I worked the M1’s as knits. Yeah, this weirded out my 1x1 ribbing at each end of the span of the collar lining, but that’s ok. It’s just the lining. And you HAVE TO expand that width so that when you stitch it down it will lay right.
Now, work the weird rib for another inch, fully letting it ‘sink in’.
At about 4", work the 2nd increase row as follows:
Second increase row: worked in some more M1’s inbetween the P1 K1 pairs that were still normal within those first original 20 stitches.
Then the following next row after the second inc row, my collar lining ‘language’ looked something like this:
K1 P1, (K2 P2) x 9…1x1 rib across til the last 38 st, then finish with (P2 K2) x 9, P1 K1.
Then just follow that strange combination of ribbing til the collar is 5" or so. BIND OFF LOOSELY, leaving a nice long tail for whip stitching.
Fold collar lining to the inside and whip stitch into place!
[B]GinnyG![/B] “Backstitch” just means ‘in-and-out’. You can’t mattress seam the ends together cuz you need to overlap the BO end on top. So, just use that 15" tail and work it in and out through both layers as neatly as possible. (NOTE: for the LEFT CUFF, the CO edge is on top)
My first cuff (the RIGHT SLEEVE CUFF) is 1/4 done.
Will take a photo of the overlap thing when I get there!
Shees, I had to write out the notes for the cuffs to be sure I “get it”.
It is [I]easy to work[/I], but a bit tricky [I]to understand[/I] first.
But I do know that the RIGHT SIDE of the cuff is going to the the [B]K4 P2 K3 P5 [/B]side…and the K4 edge is your ‘pickup 39’ edge and the P5 edge is closest to your hand.
[COLOR=Blue][B]A NOTE: [/B][/COLOR] notice how the sleeve says to “SLIP 1, work seed pattern to the end of the row” under [U]ALL SIZES on page 1[/U]? [I]And again[/I] on the dec rows, there is a SLIP 1 feature at the beginning of the rows.
[U]I am eliminating the SLIP 1[/U] from all my sleeve cap rows [U]because I am NOT working the “inside out seam[/U]”. The designer included the SLIP 1 feature as a part of a design element for the INSIDE OUT seam. [U]I’m mattress seaming[/U] my coat, therefore, all my sleeve cap edges will be the regular ‘EDGE STITCHES’ which, as you know, are KNITS on the RS & WS. An ‘edge stitch’ creates a nice little garter bump and you can really mattress seam quickly and neatly with this little edge stitch as your guide!
[B][COLOR=Red]A PERSONAL NOTE:[/COLOR] [/B]I am shortening my sleeve by 7"!!! 
I added up the 2 sleeve measurements given for the sleeve as seen on the schematics…the sleeve length for the XL is 21" plus the sleeve cap is 12.75" which equals 36.75" for the raglan sleeve! [B]HOLY COW![/B] :doh:
From base of [U]my[/U] neck, across [U]my[/U] shoulder, down over [U]my[/U] shoulder, down [U]my[/U] arm to an inch past [U]my[/U] wristbone is just 27"! So I will offload this 7" [U]before the sleeve cap[/U] [U]shaping[/U]…cuz the sleeve cap HAS TO fit into the armhole sockets of the FRONTS AND BACK. This also changes how ‘often’ I work my increases up to the sleeve cap shaping. Losing that many inches will mean that my full sleeve width has to be accomplished sooner. Otherwise, I’ll ‘run out of road’!
My “road” ends at milepost 14 (inches)! (SYLVI pattern says to begin sleeve cap shaping at 21" for the XL) :pout: I don’t think so!
And ya know, IF my sleeve #1 is a bit too short, I’d rather frog the sleeve cap back and add an inch or two before knitting sleeve #2.
We cannot ‘roll up’ the cuffs for this sleeve if they are too long, can we! They have to be a perfect length. I hate ill-fitting sleeves. I’ve been down that road too many times. :pout:
I suggest you do the same: measure yourself from the base of the side of your neck, down over your shoulder and arm to just past the wristbone. Then, add up the 2 schematic sleeve ‘length’ measurements. See how far down your completed sleeve will fit YOU if knit strictly according to the pattern’s measurements.
I’ve read about overly LONNNNNNNNG SLEEVES at Rav. Forewarned is forearmed! Us shorties already know about sleeves vs length! Best to check.
I will knit just one sleeve and do a mock try on of it, holding it to my body where it would lie when the coat is seamed up.
Looking at all the great photos of SYLVI, it isn’t hard to know where to hold the sleeve!
Well, your fearless leader has flopped! 
I made the cuff fine and dandy. But, I did not like how that ‘overlap’ looked AT ALL. It doesn’t lay right because of the way the P5 rolls up for both layers. I mean, the underside rolls up, and the ‘tab’ rolls up. I tried every which way to sew that cuff with the overlap…and not one produced a finished look that I liked.
So I tried another approach. I mattress seamed the K4-P2-K3 stitches FACE UP…and turned the cuff inside out and seamed teh P5 stitches WRONG SIDE up…meaning the Knit Stitches facing.
It is the same principle as when you are seaming a hat…you seam the hat with RIGHT SIDES facing, and the brim is seamed WRONG SIDE facing, so that when the brim is turned up, the finished seamline is facing out.
Anyway, I thought I’d give it a try, and I like it! I cinched the stitches up as tightly as possible so that the seamline doesn’t look wider than the cuff itself.
Here it is:
Here is the inside view:
Here is the top view of the other cuff:
BTW: I picked up the 39 stitches with ease, however, I couldn’t work them on a single 16" needle. So I am working my sleeve with 2 circs. The CAT BORDHI way! If you are at a loss about working on 2 circs ‘in the round’ [U]please take time to watch these 2 video clips[/U]!
You will never forget again! Last night, I remembered how to do it without watching the videos again! :happydance: I usually ALWAYS have to refresh my mind when using seldom-used technques! Again and again and again! :wall:
PART 1
PART 2
[B]PROGRESS REPORT:[/B] I’m well into shaping sleeve cap, working flat with a RS & WS, working the decreases at each end til ultimately 10 st remain. I’m not working the decreases quite like the pattern says K2T & SSK’s. I’m knitting [U]or purling[/U] the 2 together based on what the seed pattern dictates at each end. This is masking/hiding the decreases. I’m working the ‘edge stitch’ first…then the next two stitches are worked together (1 dec) according the seed pattern. At the end of the row, I work 2 together, then the edge stitch.
Oh, and another thing about my sleeve: because of my short row gauge…(16 rows are supposed to be 4"…my row gauge is 3")…
I am stretching out the decrease rows in the cap. Instead of dec 1 each end every 4th row 8 times more…I’m decreasing every [U]6th row[/U] 7 times more; then the next foll 4th row; then EOR 7 times.
[B]The purpose:[/B] so that my sleeve cap will reach the required length of 12.75" [I]by the time it’s down to 10 st left[/I]. I’ll have to apply the same rule of decreasing to the FRONT and BACK raglan edges, too. It won’t matter for the FRONTS, but adding those 12 extra rows will impact the design work for the BACK cuz the rows aren’t plain seed, they are charted rows!
I read over at Rav that some knitters just worked some rows TWO extra times. Like, for example, they worked maybe a chart row 143 as a ‘working’ row, then row 144 is a ‘resting’ row (knit the knits, purl the purls as they present themselves)…but then instead of immediately going on the row 145, they did two additional resting rows. Like, to call them a name, they’d be rows 144b & 144c. This just elongated what they had done for Row 143. Anyways, the folks that did this trick were have ROW GAUGE issues, too. Pretty cool ‘fix’! I will have to do this as well. No problem.
Photo of my sleeve before ‘BIND OFF 7 ST’ for the shape sleeve cap:
Photo of the increases on each side of stitch marker (above red line):
I didn’t work the increase like the pattern said M1L & M1R.
Forget it. I didn’t like how it disrupted the seed pattern.
Here’s what I did to each inc 1 st stitch on either side of the stitch marker: I made each stitch (on each side of the stitch marker) into two stitches by using the kfb or pfb increase. Then, when I came back around for the next round, I just purled or knit the 4 st on each side of the marker according the seed sequencing. You can tell that something is going on in the increase area, but it isn’t too disruptive to the field of seed. Besides, it will be in the underarm area anyways.
Here is a photo of what I’m intending to do to my cuffs:
I just laid them down on the cuff seamline, but will sew them on later.
Photo of the Papa Button and the Mama Button.
Mama Buttons for cuffs. Papa Buttons for FRONT closures.
I used the Papa Buttons on my 3/4 coat GROVE. Will order more.
They hold the coat shut without coming undone.
This yarn is Malabrigo Merino, but almost same color as SYLVI will be.
I guess you could say I love winter white! This coat is hooded, so my SYLVI definitely doesn’t need to be hooded, too.
A question, ArtLady: Since I also plan to mattress stitch the cuffs together to avoid the bulk otherwise, should the cuff only measure 13" in length instead of the 14" the pattern states? Will making them 14", as I have (but have not b/o) make the 39 stitches to be picked up off? Thanks for any suggestions. Love the button idea of yours also on the cuff.
You are right! 
I just finished updating my SYLVI notes on Rav…and remembered to state that I did frog my cuff back to 13" when I decided to mattress seam. Although, the mattress seaming gobbles up a bit of the cuffs. But I still left it at 13". A slightly smaller cuff circumference is nice.
Also, I mattress seamed the K4 P2 K3 stitches with the RS facing, then flipped it over and mattress seamed the P5’s (they look like K5’s on the WS). When the P5’s roll up, you don’t want the mattress edges to be public.
PS: It won’t impact your PU 39 st at all! Cuz there are lots of extra stitches. You will find you need to PU 2 side by side, then skip 1, then PU 2 side by side, then skip 1, etc. Be sure to count how many stitches are available to you along the PU row, and mark sections of 4 and PU an even amount in each sector.
Well, I was driving the 60 miles to an ART SHOW FUNDRAISER this sunny Sunday morning…not much traffic…plenty of time to think…[B][I]ABOUT SYLVI.
[/I][/B]I had not quite completed the sleeve cap for Sleeve #1 last night. I’m still feeling uneasy. Something is just not feeling right.
Hmmmmmmmmm :think: I’m making that sleeve cap taller by 13 rows to accommodate the shorter row gauge of my yarn. I was set up to add 13 extra rows to my sleeve cap so that the cap would measure up to 12.75".
[FYI: PATTERN ROW GAUGE is 4 rows=1". My yarn is 5 rows=1".] So, I have to knit an extra row to get 1". That means I have to knit 64 rows to get 12.75", whereas SYLVI gauge would have to knit 51 rows to get 12.75".
Then, I have to consider trying to add 13 additional rows to the raglan area of BOTH FRONTS and the BACK as well. I mean let’s face it, the sleeve caps gotta fit into the armhole areas for the FRONTS and the BACK, right?
As I’m driving along, I’m trying to think of another way to approach this sleeve dilemma! I was doing the math in my head: how much shorter will my sleeve cap be if I just simply work the sleeve cap [I]as per pattern,[/I] row gauge be darned. I came up with 10" instead of 13". Then I thought to myself…11" is the sleeve cap length of Size M! I could wear a Size Med at one time. My frame is a size small-med. I couldn’t wait to get home and tinker around with that sleeve.
Soooo, I frogged ALL of the sleeve cap…and picked up the stitches just after frogging the BIND OFF 7. I knit my sleeve for another 3" and THEN did the BIND OFF 7 row.
Why did I knit the sleeve itself for another 3", now a total length of 17" not 14"? Cuz I know that my sleeve has to measure 27" from side of the neck down to the wristbone. If I’m taking away 3" from the sleeve cap, I have to make it up in the arm of the sleeve.
Got it?
Now I have relieved myself of having to modify the sleeve cap length of the FRONTS and the BACK.
But let me tell you, I will be trying on this one sleeve before making sleeve #2. I could be all wet about that 10-11" sleeve cap length being ok on my body. If it isn’t, then I will tinker with adding an extra inch in those “even” rows right after the BIND OFF 7 row. There are “knit the next 4 rows even” right after the BIND OFF 7 row…and this would be an excellent place to add an inch, a plain inch. I looked at the same area for the FRONTS, and there is a place after the BINDOFFS that could handle 5 extra dummy rows.
Adding the 5 extra dummy rows to the BACK within about the chart rows 104-ish would be trickier. That’s why I hope I won’t have to add any extra rows to the sleeve cap.
I am sharing [B]all [/B]of my sleeve issues with you cuz sometimes we can [I]learn[/I] [I]more from someone’s trials-and-errors[/I] than from their successes. Not many share the pain, just the success. I like to hear the dirt! :teehee: So I figured you might, too!
If anything I’m experiencing with this darn sleeve and with the issue of row gauge will help you [U]avoid trouble[/U], or if it will help you [U]get out of trouble[/U], my time was well spent in typing this out!
Like I said earlier, numerous SYLVI Rav knitters are experiencing row gauge issues! This is because so many of us are substituting yarn! The signatue yarn for the proejct is Briggs & Little Atlantic. It prolly gets perfect row gauge. But my choice was to use STASH YARN, so I brought this on myself. I will deal with it. I think I have my issues under control now. :think:
Puullllease check the row gauge of your swatch, too!
This is sleeve #1. It sure does need some blocking!
Please pardon the wonkiness! The red yarns are 10
row markers. I couldn’t live without them. I’ll remove
them after Sleeve #2 is finished. I use them as reference.
I did the BIND OFF 7for the sleeve cap when the sleeve was[B] 17".[/B]
The sleeve cap itself, from BIND OFF 7 to top is 10".
As it turned out: I did add 2 dummy ‘even’ rows just after
the BIND OFF 7. So instead of knitting 5 ‘even’ rows, I knit 7.
Other than the 2 extra ‘even rows’, I knit the sleeve cap as per pattern, it turned out to be 10" just like I calculated. The sleeve is 27" from stem to stern, and it’s not too short by any means. Borderline too long. Jury’s out. But when I slipped my arm into it and held the 10 st on waste yarn to the side of my neck, that darn cuff was mid-hand, but not down to my knuckles. So, OKAY already! :teehee:
I CANNOT IMAGINE what this sleeve would have looked like if I had knit it as per pattern. It would have been (according to the schematic’s numbers)
34" in length. [I][B]THIRTY FOUR inches! [/B][/I]
I cast on for Sleeve #2 last night. It is going faster this
go around cuz I have my 2 circ mantra rollin’!
BTW: A warning: when I picked up the stitches for sleeve #1…my RS was facing me, but it was facing me from the inside. In other words, I work with my RS on the inside, not facing me on the outside. This resulted in one little glitch:
What was supposed to be my RIGHT SLEEVE is now my LEFT SLEEVE if the cuff seam & buttons are to lie by my wristbone.
I couldn’t, for the life of me, figure out what-in-the-heck I had done wrong. So, when I picked up stitches for sleeve #2 last night, it dawned on me! I did a test. I started out picking up the 39 st [U]with the RS facing me on the [B]outside[/B][/U]…and my 2 circs didn’t knit like sleeve #1. So I ripped out the PU 39 and [U]re-picked them with the RS of the cuff facingme on the [B]inside[/B][/U][B].[/B] Voila. My 2 circs knit the same way.
So, I will continue along, and if all is well, I will end up with a
LEFT SLEEVE and a RIGHT SLEEVE! :DOH:
NOTE: the PU 39 commences at the cuff seamline, however, for sleeve #1 you knit 9 seeds before placing the marker; and on sleeve #2, you knit 15 seeds before placing the marker. The stitch marker ‘marks’ the center of the underarm and from it you work your increases, and you work that BIND OFF 7. This difference of 9 seeds and 15 seeds is what pivots the sleeves into becoming a left or right sleeve.
Anyhoo, I figure I did something wrong with sleeve #1 so I figure I better repeat the same mistake on sleeve #2. That way I’ll end up with a LEFT & RIGHT SLEEVE!
[B]My error: having the cuff [I]inside out[/I] when picking up the 39 and commencing with row 1.
[/B][B]Be sure to have your cuff [U]right side out[/U] facing you when you pick up and knit. I believe you will have a RIGHT SLEEVE for sleeve #1!
[/B]
YEAH! The Ravelry SYLVI Volunteer Editor (juliafc) has posted modifiations for a 48" busty body type on her TWIST COLLECTIVE BLOG!
She (juliafc) is 1/4 of the production team for Twist Collective, an on-line magazine of knitting and independent design.
Let’s give her a big ole GROUP HUG! 
Artlady - you are just plowing ahead. Your sleeve looks great. I am just in the process of seaming a cardigan and then just have to do the collar and button bands. When that is finished my attention will turn to Sylvi.
We’ll still be here for ya, Karina! I admire you for making yourself finish up the WIP. Then you can begin SYLVI with a fresh slate!
I only have a stashghan WIP, but it can wait til March. No rush on that. Seamless Stashghans can be picked up and put down AT WILL! :teehee:
I was going to suggest what someone else said, to color-code on the laminate with Sharpies or other permanent markers. Sharpies come in so many lovely colors 
I’m halfway through my 4th gauge swatch :hmmm: and it looks like I’ll get the stitch gauge with 11’s. My knitting isn’t tight so I’m not sure why I’m more off with my Cascade 109 than others. Makes me wonder whether I knit wrong.
Anyway, we’re two days into February now and I’m feeling very behind. I’ll have to keep repeating: You have a little baby and were insane to start LOL - but I REALLY want to knit this coat, so I’ll have to make a point to knit at least a little every day. I may end up the last one done, but at least I’ll eventually finish, right?
Pleeeeese don’t feel behind! And surely, don’t feel bad if you’re behind me! I feel the need to be ahead of our little knitalong in order to ‘break trail’ for y’all!
Just as long as it takes…keep knitting a stitch at a time, and your SYLVI will get done! Don’t be discouraged and put it down! This knitalong doesn’t have an expiration date! We’re here for you forever!
I was busy working on a couple socks I have OTN for a few other KAL’s over the weekend so I didn’t get a chance to work on my sleeve. I did the overlap on the cuff, and I’m not crazy about the way it looks but I’m going with it since it will be tacked down with buttons. I had to rip the PU 39 on the cuff a few times until I figured out which direction I was supposed to go. Here is what I have so far if I can get the pic to post:
I’ve just started the increases. Definitely needs blocking!
Here’s another question … I don’t think I’m experienced enough to make a bunch of modifications. This whole row gauge thing is worrying me. I guess I better finish my swatch so I know what I’m dealing with, but I see so many posts about people needing to make changes … :shock: I’m worried I won’t be able to figure out what I need to do.
OMG! The red is soooo gorgeous! Way to go girl!
Later, when you have time for it…please post a closeup photo of your cuffs as they are. Even with the buttons. That is a subject that everyone is wanting more information and photos about. Those darn cuffs!
At any rate, your work is impeccable.
The seed st is so nice and even! :happydance: