Hey all, so happy to have just found this community! I am a fairly new knitter (just over a year) but have fallen in love. Thus far knitted 2 scarves, a jumper and a summer top. I am currently working on a jumper and have hit a point of confusion and after hours on google and watching YouTube vids, I’m still unsure of what to do. So, I was very happy to come across this community
So, the project I’m working on is the ‘272-56 Lang Yarns Regina’ jumper and I have already come to a few points of confusion and wondering if there are mistakes in the pattern (the ribbing for the back panel (which I am currently working) I have crossed out in blue - just because this doesn’t match the front panel - it shows just ribbing as is without decreases for the front) - would love some insight into this, but also hope I didn’t mess up by leaving this out
I’ve attached a picture of the pattern - the blue numbers are my attempt at adjusting the sizing (this may have set me up for more trouble than I anticipated but am trusting the process ).
My question is around the shoulder and neck shaping:
Unsure of what it means when it says ‘Bind off alternately (3 sts once & 2 sts once)’ - I am not sure if this means one row bind off 3 sts, and then the next row 2 sts? Logically I don’t understand how this would make each side even
I guess then moving to the neck shaping portion - this whole thing I am still yet to wrap my head around - reading through it, it doesn’t quite make sense yet but hoping it will once I start knitting that portion. Would also appreciate any clarity around how to do this
The jumper I knitted last year was done in the round, so this is new for me knitting in panels.
Hello
There are lovely cables on the sweater youve chosen
These cables are the reason for the difference between front and back stitch count where the back has decreases at the transition between rib and stockinette and the front does not.
Stockinette will work up wider than cables which pull in and make the overall fabric narrower. The pattern is written to allow for this so that both pieces result in the same width even though one is plain and the other cabled, I’d suggest working the decreases.
The alternate 3 sts and 2 sts is each side. Starting with “3 sts at beginning of each row”:
RS bind off 3, work to end of row turn
WS bind off 3, work to end of row turn
RS bind off 2, work to end
WS bind off 2 work to end
And so on. On each side it will be 3, 2, 3, 2, 3, 2 and so on for the correct count.
It’s a good idea to draw this out and cross them off as you do them.
When you bind off for the centre neck you will finish each side separately so you need to know where you are up to on those decreases as you are expected to keep track and continue.
When one side is complete you will rejoin yarn to the other side and finish working it. An alternative is to use 2 balls of yarn, one each side, after binding off centre neck and work each side at the same time. Your choice.
If you are still struggling to understand this let us know. Lots of help here.
Please could you delete the second pic as we can’t post large portions of patterns due to coouright. Its ok to post a small section or a few lines to get help. There is a little pencil icon for editing.
It’s going to be a lovely sweater. Not the easiest shaping directions but Creations has nicely laid it out for you.
Here’s a good technique for avoiding a stair step at the bind off edges. If you’re not ready to try it here you can tuck it away for some future project.
I’m sad to say that I have knitted to the shoulder decrease seciton already and I did not do the decreases in the first row as the pattern said. I didn’t realise cables make the fabric narrow Is there a way to adjust the sts for the front panel to save me frogging what I have done so far?
Are you happy with the width of the back? It may be wider than expected if you didn’t decrease.
I can understand the reluctance to frog the entire back but it may be the best option to get the size and fit you were after.
What you could do is place this piece on hold (slide all stitches onto a piece of waste yarn using a tapestry needle, knot the ends together so the yarn won’t slip out) just leave the yarn attached and put the whole thing aside. Get a fresh ball of yarn and make the front up to the same length (or even just 10 or 20 cm of the front would give you an idea of its size). At that point you will be able to see the difference in size and will either be more prepared to frog the back, or decide you don’t mind the extra width on the back (it might be very drapey and hang nicely) and decide to continue, in which case nothing lost.
Another option would be to add stitches to the front to make it just as wide as the back, you’d need to add however many you ‘should’ have decreased on the back to make both pieces equally wide. If you don’t like the width of the back though there’s not much point going wider on the front.
Frogging rarely feels good just before doing it but it usually feels ok a few minutes later. No need to rush into it though if you feel unsure.
You took on the challenge of changing the size and stitch count which is admirable, you’ll be learning lot with every different project and this is part of the process.
I am happy with the width of the back (about 60cm). So I think I’ll just add those extra sts to the front panel
Another question with the neck - I feel like this is too small now with my sizing adjustments? I’m not sure if this will be the width of the neck hole (where I’ve placed the two markers, about 13cm wide)?
The neck begins with the initial bind off of 28 sts (13 cm) then has some shaping on the following rows, each side, adding up to a total of 8 sts each side, 16 total. 28 + 16 = 44 sts (approx 20 to 21 cm).
As you have decided to keep the back at the larger size, this is only 2 sts different from the original small size pattern (you cast on 154, omitted the decreases so have 154 sts. The pattern at this stage has 156 sts) so you can choose to continue with your modified calclations or can switch to the stitch count give for small, just omitting 1 stitch each end at the shoulder. Your choice. It would make the neck some sts wider, 32 sts initial bind off plus shaping. If you are petite this may risk falling off your shoulders.
Modifying the front. You will prob need the cast on and rib equal to the back. Then increase where each cable will be, up to the correct stitch count.
Rather than RS and WS it’s right and left. Each shoulder needs to be counted individually because at some point you will have neck bind offs in the middle too.
Information given out side a bracket means do everything inside the bracket this number of times, the maths in the pattern help with this too
(3 sts once, 2 sts once) 9 times each side. 5 × 9 = 45
then another 3 sts 3 times each side. 3 × 3 = 9
(= 54 sts per shoulder) 45 + 9 = 54
Or with the modified size 5 × 8 + 9 = 49
Many people find it helpful to draw it out and mark the bind off numbers for shoulders and neck so they can be crossed off as they are worked and so that each side can be checked for the stitch count.
).
Is there a way to adjust the sts for the front panel to save me frogging what I have done so far?
