Scalloped edge poncho

so i wanna make this pattern for my daughter and started on it last night. but i kept getting it wrong. i just couldn’t get the stitches to the right amount after the decrease/increase rounds. i am making it in the small size so there are no corrections.

i had a question about this part: Row 3 P 1, *p2tog, yo, p2tog; repeat from * to last st, p 1 – 1 st decreased for each repeat.

do i do p2tog yo pt2og yo p2tog and so on OR do i p2tog yo p2tog p2tog yo p2tog and so on?

is it possible instead of making in in 4 parts to do it all in one piece on a circular needle? like instead of making 4 pieces of 54 st each i will just have one piece and start off with 216 st and work in the round on the current pattern. and IF SO what should the needle length be? 24 inch? it is for my 2 year old. i really hate seaming things together. especially this cuz its lace.

p2tog yo p2tog p2tog yo p2tog is the way to do it.

I supposed you could do it in the round, but make sure you put markers where the original ends of the rows would be so you can make sure the decreases are even.

One panel piece is 13 1/2 inches across at the bottom, so you’d need a needle long enough to accommodate 54 inches of stitches, and shorter needles when you decrease up the poncho.

Working it on two circs would work better, so you could still avoid seams but wouldn’t need a large variety of needle lengths.

how long would the needle thing have to be?? and what sizes do i decrease and when??
i dont know how to work on 2 circulars so how would i do that?

acutally Ingrid, i just found amys video on how to work on 2 circulars at the same time so i guess that might be easier? if i do it that way i guess it wont matter the length of the needle/cord? and i wouldn’t have to switch at all would i?

You’d still want the cord to be as long as possible–it makes for much easier knitting with two circs, and in the beginning you do have a lot to hold. The upside is that you won’t have to change needles at all.