Raglan questions

Hello knitters!

First post and I am not the one knitting. My wife is the knitter in the family.

She has been knitting a top down raglan sweater for me after doing one for herself. I love the sweater, but there is an issue. It has a lot of lift when I raise my arms (imagine getting something off top shelf in the store).

My understanding is that this is due to the sleeves slanting down, unlike a conventional body+sleeves sweater where the sleeves extend out horizontally.
Am I on the right thought path here?

If one wanted to make a top down raglan sweater with sleeves extending straight out (90° to body), does it just come down to growing the front and back sections more quickly?

I can post pictures if needed.
Thank you in advance.
Igor.

Pictures:

Hi and welcome to KH. I’m thinking. That’s a beautiful sweater. Can you find out and share with us what pattern your amazing wife used? The fit could be adjusted. I don’t like excess fabric in the sleeve that ends up as a fold. I stop increasing on the sleeve before I stop increasing on the body and that helps a lot. I also double up on the increases on the body with an increase before the established one (i.e. instead of one increase I increase, k1 or 2, inc) and how often and when depends on the length of the armhole. I’m watching a video now to see if it has info I think might be helpful. I think my raglan/set in sleeve mod should work for men as well as women. It alters the fit of the under arm. What you describe sounds like a hybrid drop shoulder/raglan, maybe.

Please tell your wife I admire her knitting!

eta Does a raglan sweatshirt pull up the same?

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Welcome to the forum! We’re happy to have both you and your wife join us.
Beautiful sweater.
It seems to me that you want more of a drop sleeve than a raglan but there are ways of modifying the raglan increases to give you more room in the arms so they don’t pull up on the body of the sweater.
Here’s a video that may help. I like the math version best but both mathy and no math are presented.

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Please let your wife know that her presence on the forum is respectfully requested.

I found this interesting and learned that what I attempted to describe above could be a version of a compound raglan. I more or less figured it out on my own. Now I’ll watch the video salmonmac shared to see what else I can learn. What a welcome distraction this is! Thank you for asking your question.

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Thank you very much. I tried to get her to join forums in the past but she doesn’t believe she is good enough to share. Which, in my opinion, is completely false. I wear the other sweater she made for me all the time and I am proud of it.

She made a thing (I don’t know all the names) out of granny squares that looks amazing and fits her exactly. All the other things she made are awesome.

I will try to convince her to revisit the idea of joining the forum and share what she has done thus far, as well as to ask questions.

And I will pass on the videos/info.

Again, thank you very much.

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We would be delighted to have both of you on the forum. It’s inspiring for us to see you wife’s beautiful knit sweater. And there’s no presssure to share. We’re all learning here and trying to get better.
Your question (and hers) is a good one and it makes us all think more about sweater design.

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I love the cable design on the front and back of the torso near the side seams on this sweater. I have marked a sweater with a similar design feature that I want to make for myself as it is so lovely. The one I have chosen though is not a raglan design, so no diagonal cable across from under arm to neck, and that’s because I do not wear or make raglan sweaters.
I have done. I made a raglan sweater for my son, he never wore it as he said it didn’t fit. I thought it was too big so made the same sweater in a smaller size. He never wore it. He loved how it looked but was uncomfortable with it on. After consideration I realised it’s the raglan that isn’t suitable (and I am gearing up for some knit surgery to try to fix the bigger one so it can be worn, one day, maybe).
And for myself, I just know raglan doesn’t fit me well or look good on me. That was mainly based on looking at the clothes I have bought in the past and learning what fits best and is most comfortable.
And maybe you can do the same. Are the sweaters you are comfortable in raglan, drop sleeve, modified drop sleeve, set in sleeve… it can help to identify what you like.
Maybe you and your wife were attracted to this pattern because of that lovely cable design up the side seams and just went for it without realising perhaps that this style isn’t the best for your personal preference on fit.
If that’s the case then there are other sweater patterns with similar design elements but different shaping, and with a narrow cable like this there is also the option of using a plain pattern which fits well and adding the cables in. A cable generally needs some extra stitches adding to the overall width because it crosses over and pulls the stitches and width in a bit, but a small cable would not need a lot of stitch count modification to include and there are video tutorials on how to do this too.
The problem with the node lift when you raise your arms is shown well in the photo. The raglan continues at an even pace until such point is arrived at which accommodates your chest width… this is low down your body, making the arm pit too low down. When the arm raises the arm pit part if the sweater has no option but to get pulled up. A higher arm pit is needed and in part you suggest this in your post making reference to a sleeve which comes straight out at 90 degrees, a drop sleeve or modified drop sleeve design. A modified drop sleeve can be fitted to a torso which is broader at the chest without lowering the armpit too far. In addition the modified drop sleeve can have less fabric in the sleeve, your raglan has some excess fabric in the upper arm because the raglan just keeps going until the chest width is accomodated for, without taking into account that your upper arm doesn’t need that much fabric, so the fabric folds and gathers in the upper arm when your arms are lowered.
You might also find this particular sweater is trickier to put a jacket or coat over, possibly the coat shaping pulls the sweater arm pit higher, just to get the coat on, and making it uncomfortable to wear with a jacket due to gathering bulk of fabric in the upper arm and arm pit. Or if a coat fits it may raise the hem of the sweater in a similar way to when you lift your arms.
Don’t get me wrong, I do think this sweater looks great, it’s really nicely knit and you should definitely wear it.

There is often some sort of compromise when choosing a design and cut of any item. Many well fitted designs have a set in sleeve or some other modification of design to try to follow the shape of the body (talked about in the video which I found fascinating. I first thought why try to change a raglan when you can just choose a different design such as modified drop sleeve, saddle shoulder, set in sleeve, and then the same thing was said in the video with some excellent visuals and suggestions too) however I do think you also need to first think about what is it you want from your sweater. Most of the closer fitting design aim to fit the body better when the arm is lowered as this is the natural position of arms. With an occassional reaching for the top shelf one wouldn’t necessarily want to wear a sweater designed for that but rather one which looks good most of the time and only felt and looked a bit awkward on those rare occasions. On the flip side, if you very frequently have your arms raised due to your work or hobbies then you might prefer a sweater which looked and felt more comfortable for that purpose. There is a design with an underarm gusset (an extra diamond of fabric) which is often found in traditional fishermen sweaters and the purpose of this is exactly so that the arms can be frequently in the active up position and lots of physical activity whilst ensuring the torso of the sweater does not lift (fishermen don’t want a gap appearing at the waist to bring in a nasty draft or for the arms to feel restricted). If someone had a profession which was frequently involving raised arms this might be a more suitable choice for work wear, blind and curtain fitters, plasterers, painter and decorators, tree surgeons and so on. You might not choose the same design or fit for other aspects of life. Someone who wears a suit for office wear would want a more fitted sweater which could fit under a suit jacket or blazer and would definitely not want an underarm gusset getting in the way.

OK, so maybe it’s an extreme example, but maybe not. I have worn different clothing depending on where I’m going and what I’ll be doing and I am sure most people do this. And then again you’re probably thinking you just want something that you can wear kind of all of the time. True, most of us do.

You’ve already had great suggestions on how to modify the raglan design.
Here is a slightly different approach from me. I would ditch the raglan design. Go for a modified drop sleeve, a saddle shoulder or a set in sleeve. There are benefits to seaming on these sweaters (seams add structure and prevent sag over time for instance) but if your wife hates seaming there are also patterns and methods for seam free ways to knit too. Equally there are top down and bottom up options.

Here are a few examples




With regards to whether or not your wife feels comfortable to join the forum. No problem, we understand. I don’t use any other social media at all, I am very partictular about where I post and this is the only forum I use. It is very well moderated, friendly and helpful, the nonsense posted by spam bots and idiots is removed in a very timely manner keeping the forum clean and welcoming. Your wife may decide to join in, she may not, all fine. She doesn’t have to post photos of herself or of her knits. We do often say “hope you’ll post a pic” because we are generally nosey about knit stuff but it’s also totally fine not to post pics. It’s all good here.

I hope some of my wandering thoughts are useful.

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Thank you, it does help quite a bit.

She got really interested in a top down seamless raglan and wanted to make one for me. Looking at my other (purchased) sweaters built the same way, they all lift, so I am starting to see the pattern.

With a raglan sweater she made for herself i helped her figure out the rate of stitch addition so the sweater wouldn’t have extra material (folds) that she didn’t like.
On the back she was adding a stitch on either side every 4th row for the first 20 cm of raglan line, then went to every other row for the last 10cm; on the front it was 1 per side every 4th row for the first 10 cm and then every other row for the next 20cm. The sleeves she was adding 1/side every other row the entire time. That sweater fits her perfectly. I don’t have a picture of that one on her.

And she really likes a longer/lower armpit. For me, a higher armpit is definitely better. I already asked her to keep this sweater as is. She still wants to change the bottom stretchy part, especially the bind off. She was going for a “factory edge” but it doesn’t seem to stretch back enough or hold well. She is a perfectionist, so she will keep redoing things until she is happy with it.

In any case, I am passing on all of that info. Thank you.

She is already planning another sweater for me, but that will not be a raglan. She wants to do lots of cabling on that so it will be a body + sleeves design.

To me it is all pure magic. I can’t wrap my head around knitting.

Found a picture of her granny square summer sweater.

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That’s the most beautiful use of granny squares I’ve ever seen! I hope your wife enjoys every minute of wearing it. Thank you both for the photo.

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Granny squares that don’t look tacky! Well done and we need her here! You two make a great knitting team.

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I think your sweater has a 1 x 1 rib hem (k1 p1) which I find rather unsatisfactory, I prefer a 2 x 2 as I feel each column of knits looks neater and doesn’t misshape the stitches so much and also to wider the rib the more it pulls in (and stretches out) . It’s something worth experimenting with to see what is preferred. There are some extra stretchy bind off methods, larger needle, binding off in rib and Jenys stretchy bind off are a few.

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Yes, she gave me the rundown on 1x1 vs 2x2, or combinations. She likes 1x1 more.

The 1x1 on neck and sleeves seem to work great. The bottom one she already redid a couple of times trying for the illusive factory edge. Still unhappy with it and I can see what she means.

She is taking it apart today and will do the same bind off she did on the sleeves. I am good with either, but like I said, she will not stop until she is happy with it. I mostly play the role of the mannequin until the item is done. :wink:

Here is the edge of the neck and what she was trying to do with the bottom:


And here is the edge of the sleeves and what the new bottom edge will look like:

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Liat Gat has a lovely video of the sewn bind off. It works a treat for 1x1 rib. I like it so much that I convert rib patterns to 1x1 just to use it. The bind off rounds the edge and makes it look continuous with the other side. It’s like a tubular cast on or bind off.


It takes concentration and a quiet place to work it without messing up. I go through the 4 steps and never stop unless I’ve completed a step 4.
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She said it was exactly what she was trying to do, but for some reason it never comes out the way she wants.

When I’ve messed this up it was because I wasn’t working that last step, the knit into the second stitch from behind correctly. Somehow I was going into the wrong stitch.
I find it helps to make sure to take the stitch that’s dropping off the needle completely off at that step. Don’t let it sit there. Once it’s off, it’s easy to see which stitch is the second stitch.

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Yes, I think that was the difference.

I remember her watching a video of someone else doing it, and I believe the instructions were slightly different. Next time she does it she will try this method.

For now, she finished the bottom the same way as the sleeves and it looks and works great. Now she will be tying off all the loose ends, wash, and then I can wear it.

Can’t wait.

P.S. what is the appropriate section of this forum to display finished works? I will see if she wants to make her own account and post what was done already.

We’re pretty flexible here but Whatcha’ Knitting December, 2023 is a good place.

You could also post the finished sweater right here in the current thread. Looking forward to seeing it!

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My comment won’t be as helpful as many others more experienced than myself are sure to give you great advice. But just want to say I love the colour and the cable defining the edge of the sweater, which I’m sure your wife will be trying to incorporate into any alteration of the design. However, why not just get your wife to knit the sweater longer, if she has wool left over - the lift in the arms will not matter so much. Just a thought :slightly_smiling_face:

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Thank you.

We decided to leave it as is. Already wore it once after it was finished and washed. It actually turned out to be quite long, as in, I kept sitting down on it. Overall, I love it. The lift is there, but it is nothing I can’t live with and enjoy the sweater.

She is working on a sweater for herself at the moment, honeycomb pattern.

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Beautiful pattern and your wife’s knitting is also beautiful. Love the pattern with the cables! Enjoy.

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