Next Row: (K1, P1) 8 times, slip 33 sts onto a stitch holder, (P1, K1) 5 times.
Next Row: (P1, K1B) 5 times, work across 33 sts left on a stitch holder for one pocket lining as follows:-
P1, (K1B, P1) 16 times, (K1B, P1) 8 times.
Okay. Based on the image, I’d work the [B]FIRST ROW[/B] by proceeding across it. Once you’ve worked [B]ACROSS[/B] the 33 sts for the pocket, THEN place them on a holder. Finish the row.
[B]NEXT ROW[/B], continue knitting. (You’re using the same yarn, no loose ends.) When you get to the place where the previous row’s 33 sts were put on holder, take one of the linings and work those sts in their place (you’re inserting the lining…it’ll hang down behind the front of your sweater). BTW, some linings are worked with 2 extra sts which are K tog with the first and last of the opening. Makes for a cleaner and more secure transition.) Finish across the row and proceed to the next part of the directions (presumably continuing up the fronts).
I suspect you’ll go back, probably at the end of the instructions, to the 33 sts on the holder and work some kind of pocket trim. It’ll then be secured to the fronts. The lining, which is still hanging down inside the front, will need to be slip-stitched to the WS of the front to create the pocket. The trim will be where the opening is (your hand enters the pocket at that point). If the lining hanging down doesn’t want to stay flat while you work the rows above it, just baste in place with some waste yarn or pin with extra st holders.
Cute sweater. I’m a HUGE coat sweater fan. BTW, I’ve done many sweaters, almost all of which have pockets (and if they don’t I add them!). Once you put the trim sts on the holder and replace them with the lining sts you’ll see the concept taking shape.