I am starting the Lana Gatto Neck Scarf (free pattern). I am not a new knitter but I am having trouble with one of the main stitches (the tubular stitch). It is supposed to be an “ Easy” pattern but I am finding the directions quite vague. I googled “tubular stitch” but all I’m finding is a tubular cast on, not a tubular stitch as described in the pattern instructions below. Thank you for your help.
Instructions:
“With 3.75 mm needles cast on 7 sts and work as
follows: 3 sts in tubular st, 1 st in garter st and
3 sts in tubular st. Inside first 3 sts, inc 1 st (to in-
crease, make 1 st as follows: pick up horizontal
yarn between last st and next st and knit into the
back of it) on next and every following 6th row 24
times. There are 31 sts. Now the work is 34cm
long from beg. Cont to work straight 42 cm more,
then, inside the 3 tubular sts, on RH (right hand)
side dec 1 st on next and every following 6th row
24 times. When work measures 110cm, cast off
rem 7 sts”.
I’ve never heard the term “tubular stitch”, but looking at the instructions it seems to be a standard I-cord edging. Knit across the row and slip the last 3 stitches purlwise on every row. This will create the rolled or “tubular” edging.
The knitting store where I bought the wool had a sample of this scarf knit up and they provided a copy of the free pattern for me. I’m relieved you agreed that this pattern is lacking in detail. I thought it was just me
Thank you for directing me to the I- cord stitch tutorial.
The “only” information I found online re: a tubular stitch was the following:
How to knit a tubular stitch
Cast on an even number of stitches
Knit the first stitch
Place the thread in front of the project
Slip the next stitch
Place the thread behind the project
Knit the next stitch
Repeat until the row is finished
Slip the last stitch
Repeat the row until the desired length is reached
That’s another common way of doing I-cord. I think the version where you slip all 3 stitches and then knit them gives a more rounded effect, but you might try both methods and see which you prefer.
I don’t know about you, but I find it helpful to put a marker 3 stitches from the edges, so I don’t forget to change to the I-cord stitches.
Thank you for your help ColoCro. I’m still trying to decipher how the increases and decreases fit into this.
The instructions for this seemingly easy pattern are truly convoluted!
Another reason for the markers. The increases are just inside the I-cord edge on one edge. So an increase row (every 6th row) could look like:
K3, M1, K(# of stitches for that row), slip last 3 stitches purlwise.
There’s a very similar scarf called Sophie, which uses kfb instead of the M1.
Hi again GrumpyGramma .
I’ve just looked at the I-cord video. It’s very straight forward- thank you.
The pattern requires increases (within the “tubular stitch”) every six rows (and later decreases). Where would you suggest I add the increases? (Within the garter stitch section?).
Thank you for elaborating on how to incorporate the increases. I like the Sophie scarf use of knitting through the back (as opposed to the M1).
Equipped with the I-cord tutorial, use of markers and the suggestion about where to place the increase, I think I’m set!
Thank you!
I found with Sophie that the hardest thing was remembering to do the increases. I made an 8-row counter out of beads (you’d want a 6-row one) like this, placed it about 10 stitches in and moved a bead every time I passed it. When I got to the last bead, I knew there was an increase. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhze3e2MS8o&ab_channel=HumbleBee
What a great idea! Much better than what I do (which is write down the number on a piece of paper and cross it off as I complete the increase (or row). Your idea is more visual.
Thank you!
I would probably work the I cord edge, k1, yo (knit through the back loop on the next row) for the increases. There is a lot of knitter’s choice involved with a project like this. IMHO if it works for you and gives the desired result, do it that way whichever way it is. I use a marker that I advance every RS row to keep count of when to increase - every 6th row translates for me to every 3rd RS row for example. If the marker has a thread attached (any yarn thinner than what you’re knitting with; I like to use crochet cotton thread) the thread will get captured in the knitting so if the marker falls off the needle you can figure out pretty easily where it should be. You’ll figure out what works best and easiest for you and that will be the right way for you to do things.
Wow, that pattern is lacking! To give a detailed description of a m1 increase which is a commonly known stitch and can be easily found online, but leave out any description of “tubular stitch” is not a common term and impossible to find online, just makes no sense at all.
Not surprised you were confused!
Glad to see some sense has been made of it and you seem able to go ahead. I don’t know why the yarn shop was promoting this pattern without any explanation for how to do it, it isn’t ‘easy’.
I so agree with you. I also wondered if they have the right to distribute copies of the pattern. I think the pattern was translated to English which could account for the tubular stitch fiasco in it but having it promoted by the LYS shows a lack of understanding on someone’s part there. Knit for some time and know how to do and recognize some things makes a world of difference but recognizing an I cord edge (which I think is what the tubular stitch is) from a smallish photo is tricky for lots of knitters.
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(which is write down the number on a piece of paper and cross it off as I complete the increase (or row). Your idea is more visual.