# Mitered squares

THere was a thread on here about mitered squares but now I can’t find it. Whatever. So my question is, on the Mason Dixon mitered square you gotta go back and forth between ssk x2 and then a k2tog and k2tog x2 and an ssk which I don’t get. Why not just do one or the other the whole time? So then either way yer decresing by 3 each knit row. But the decreases are not even. For instance it’s not decrease 3 stitches in the middle of the row–> every row–> in a row. Someimtes you knit 27 then decrease. THen the next row is not decrease 26, maybe its decrease 24. Why can’t you just decrease 3 stitches every row? I want it to be easy and mindless llike this pattern

http://helpinghearts0.tripod.com/id40.html

where there are only 2 decreases and the stitch number matches on either side of the decrease. But this pattern doesn’t come out in a nice square (Although I purled on one side instead of knit every row in gaarter. What can I say, I’m a snob. I like stockinette) It makes a diamond.

So ow do you make a nice perfect square with a nice mindless easy decrease in stockinette? Do I CO an even or odd number of stitches? Or do I have to do like Mason-Dixon and skip stitches and keep track and alla that.

http://www.planetshoup.com/easy/knit/mitre_bas.shtml

Here are the basic directions I use for mitered squares. I put a stitch marker in the middle of an even number of stitches, then decrease before and after the marker by knit 2tog. So my cast on number of stitches must be an even number, and I decrease by 2 stitches, on every other row. I knit straight across with Color A, row 2 of color A when I get to 2 stitches before the marker I k2tog, pass the marker then k2tog and knit across the row. 2rows of each color, so then I switch to color B and knit across. Row 2 of color B will the decrease row.

It’s pretty much the same as Mason Dixon’s - they are just decreasing a little differently when they get to the middle of every other row. Because thier decrease method uses a pass slipped stitch over, they can’t put a marker there to mark the center.

After 4-6 rows it is pretty obvious when you get to the center, I just like having the marker there so I don’t have to pay so much attention. I don’t have to count rows, either, to keep track of when to decrease as it is obvious if I’m on the 1st or 2nd row of the 2 colors.

the mitered squares in this skirt pattern are the same as the first link in this post - using a even number of cast on stitches and decrease by k2tog. http://www.magknits.com/Oct06/patterns/mitred.htm Sometimes looking at the same basic pattern written slightly differently can make it easier to understand.

You won’t get a perfect square in stockinette like you will garter because the sts in garter are closer to the same length as width. In other words the st and row gauge are pretty much the same, whereas in st st, the row gauge is a little longer. One way to get it to come out a little more square is to knit it in garter ridge - knit a row, purl a row, knit a row, knit a row. There ends up being 3 knit rows and a purl row when looking at it from the RS.

such great suggestions, thanks!!!