Men’s guernsey cable sweater

Me again…back with another project - this time a men’s guernsey cable sweater for my Dad.

I bought the pattern of Etsy a while back and gosh I regret it as it’s so confusing but I almost feel forced to give it a go now that I’ve paid!

I’m currently knitting a gauge/tension square and the instructions are “work 12 sts patt IIIA, 8 ste patt II, and 8 sts pat, beginning with row 1 of each and working evenly numbered rows in reverse order. Work even for 4”.”.

Now my thinking is that I’d follow row 1 instructions for each pattern for that first line then move onto row 2 instructions for the pattern and so on. Is that right? And then because it’s an evenly numbered row I’d reverse the instruction. However I’m confused as for that patt the instruction is “P2, (k1b, p1, k1b, p2) twice.” So which bit would I reverse would it be “(p2, k1b, p1, k1b) twice, p2” or “(k1b, p1, k1b, p2) twice, p2”. My guess is the first one but if I could get some clarification that would be great.

Thank you in advance!

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https://www.etsy.com/listing/520748675/knitted-mens-guernsey-and-cable-knit

I love the cables in this sweater, very pretty.
Does the pattern have charts for the cables? Usually that’s what directions to work in one direction on RS rows and in the reverse direction on WS rows applies to.

For the written directions there should be no need to reverse the directions. Just work them as writtern.
For the rows you quoted, including the p2 outside the parentheses the directions read the same forwards and backwards.

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What a beautiful sweater! I hope you can work it using @salmonmac’s instructions, but if not, the cost of the pattern isn’t really very much. Don’t feel you have to knit it just because of that. Life is too short to add unnecessary difficulty!

I especially love the cables in the ribbing!

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Wow, that’s both complex and stunning! It will be a labour of love.

Practising on the swatch is so useful. My advice is to try to look not only at what the instructions say to do but what happens to the stitches on the row as you do them. This gives you the opportunity to begin to learn to read the knitting which will be incredibly useful later on. I also find my tension with cables is much better when I have practiced a good amount before hand.

I agree though that if it’s not comfortable or fun there’s no shame in putting it aside and switching to a different pattern. I have seen patterns which look great on the pic but have been disappointed with how they look with my chosen yarn, or in some cases didn’t enjoy the maneuvers required for the pattern and yarn combination.

I look forward to seeing your progress, it will be spectacular.

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It’s a gorgeous sweater isn’t it, that’s why I was so persuaded to buy it and have a go at it!

It is very complex but luckily my dad’s birthday is August next year so a lot of time!

That’s all very good advice thank you.

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They’re gorgeous aren’t they! It doesn’t have charts for the cables no.

I understand what you are saying as it does read the same forwards as it does backwards it’s just it says “working evenly numbered rows in reverse order” which confused me. So I’ll show you some more evenly numbered rows and see what you think.

Oh wait I think I’ve worked it out, is it reverse order so 8 st pat I, 8 st patt II, 12 sts patt IIIA, that would make more sense.

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Yes, that’s it, good sleuthing!

Some patterns say things whih perhaps aren’t needed (but perhaps are) and add more confusion than clarity.
Just always make sure you are on the correct cable pattern whether right or wrong side.

I’m not sure you need to do this but possibly. When I had a bunch of different cable/lace patterns to work I used a coloured marker (or thin yarn looped by the cast on edge) on the fabric as a reminder of which chart was needed for each section. So, red marker for chart 1 then write on chart 1 red marker. I found it helpful. I also bought some new row counters and asked the seller to send me certain colours so I could track the rows of each cable, a red row counter for the cable with the red marker or instance. When the cables have different numbers of rows it’s really helpful to have different row counters for each. Mine are just cheap plastic ones, nothing fancy.

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Thank you!

Another thing is that the pattern asks for worsted weight yarn which I’ve been told is American. I’m knitting with dk which says it requires 4mm needles to get a gauge of 22 sts to 30 rows for 10 x 10 square. However the pattern calls for a gauge of 28 sts to 32 rows for 10 x 10 square with 5mm or 5.5mm needles. I really really want to use the dk that I’ve got as I like the colour a lot but I’m wondering how I’d able to accommodate for this. Any tips?

I’ve tried doing it on 5 and 5.5mm needles and the fabric just looks really loose and I am making sure my tension is tight. I’m wondering if I could go down a needle size? And then finally you know how people say you can go down a needle size if your tension is too loose, especially for purling, but what happens if your row is made up of knits and purls because I’d have to be swapping each stitch and then wouldn’t that mean the previous stitch would no longer be the width of the previous needle size. Hoepfully that makes sense!

The pattern is calling for a gauge of 28sts/4inches in the various pattern stitches. The gauge you’re looking at for DK (22sts/4inches or 10cm) is worked in stockinette stitch. The cables and pattern stitches in this sweater will pull in the number of sts per inch or cm so you DK might well work depending on its thickness.
Try your DK yarn and see if you get gauge over the swatch as defined under Gauge in the pattern. Dropping down a needle size or two, regardless of knits and purls is better than trying to knit at a tighter tension. That doesn’t work because inevitably you will relax as you’re knitting and the tension will change. Dropping down needle sizes is a better way to adjust gauge.
You want to get gauge and be happy with the knit fabric, not too loose and not too stiff.

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There really isn’t a feasible way to switch for different stitches or sections, everything would need to be on different needles. The only time I can imagine this tip working is for instance working in the round with reverse stockinette, which would be purl every round. Its true if you purl all stitches in the round the gauge could be different to knitting all stitches. Personally I woukd disregard this tip as it won’t be useful for your pattern.

With all the cables worked as the pattern describes for the swatch, and then washed/blocked, you should be able to see how the stitches pull in on the cables.
If the 5mm is loose try 4.5mm but see what it’s like after washing too. The fabric may feel different and come up a different stitch count.

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Thank you to you both once again. I’ve started a swatch today on 4.5mm needles and I’m pretty happy with it so far. I measured it and it’s roughly 4” wide and it has 28 stitches which is what it called for. Going to carry on until it reaches 4” down and then measure the rows. Hoping for 32! Fingers crossed.

And then possibly might try again on 5mm needles and see what happens.

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This is all useful information. It might be more accurate to measure over 2 or 3 inches in several places and take an average. That way you’ll avoid the very edge sts which are always smaller than the others.
Your knitting and cables look very nice and the color is beautiful!

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The swatch looks yummy.

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I know it’s probably not the best but I just decided to wing it and go for it. So I’m currently on the back panel using 4.0mm needles and then got 2 more rows left of the ribbing before switching to 4.5mm to do the pattern part!

Be honestly brutal about my knitting and cables as I feel they look quite bad :joy:

These cables look lovely and the ribbing is very neat with no ladders between knits and purls. Washing and blocking will settle any uneveness in the cables that you may be seeing.

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Thank you so much. The reason I asked was because I couldn’t tell if it was neat or not and I was tempted to pull it all out and start over but I was thinking blocking would help so I’m going to carry on!

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My brutal reposne is: did you wash your swatch?

You really would be better off finding out now if the size is going to be correct or not, this is a big project to wing it on.
Even if you continue knitting I really recommend washing the swatch, you don’t have to do anything fancy, just soak it for half an hour then squeeze it out in a tea towel, flatten it and leave it to dry. Then, once dry, give it a stretch in a few directions to give it some wear, and count the stitches for gauge.
I sound like a nag.
And you can be brutal and tell me to mind my business, which I will.

Your knitting looks lovely by the way.

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My brutal reply is no I did not :joy::joy: And I frogged it all to start afresh.

I’ve measured the back panel on my dad and it seems to be a good size and that it will fit him so I’m happy with that. Given his birthday is next year in August I might just carry on and then if it’s a success yippee if not it’s practice and I can start over!

No I would never be rude to someone who’s just giving advice!!

Thank you! Xx

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Sometimes as a compromise, knitters start with a sleeve. It’s not as large as the front or back and it’ll give you a good idea of the gauge.

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I’m keeping my mouth shut :zipper_mouth_face:

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