The Louett is cheaper, but the Cas has a double treadle. The Louett is better known, but has some negative reviews. The Cas has PVC bobbins, but the Louett is ugly as sin.
What wheel do you have now? Is it in good shape (i.e., drive band has good tension, footmen have good connection to conrod and treadle[s], all parts spin freely)?
Well-made wheels can work for over 150 years; ask many spinners who work on “old” wheels.
If at all possible, test the Louet; there’s a direct-importer in Canada (but I don’t know your location). It has lots of fans for its smooth action. I’m not familiar with the Cassandra, but why would a wooden wheel use PVC bobbins? The photo you linked doesn’t show them.
It definitely works, it’s just REALLY fast and I can’t draft fast enough, so I end up with thick, over-twisted yarn. Plus, it only has one small bobbin and a small orifice. I have no intentions of getting rid of it, but I get frustrated with it. You know that weird, tingly, sweaty feeling you get when you’re frustrated? Haha, maybe it’s just me. But I have yet to master it.
I’d love to try the Louet before I commit but it’s a few hours away so unless there’s something dreadfully wrong with it, I’m kind of committed to it if I make the trip.
I have learned a lot more about the Cassandra (the maker has a forum on Ravelry and youtube videos which have proven insightful) and am leaning in that direction. I think.
No idea why they use PVC instead of wood - it doesn’t make sense to me, either! That said, the maker (John) is pretty active in responding to questions and has a valid reason for everything he’s done in creating these wheels, so I’m sure there’s a reason for it. Or maybe it’s just a cost thing. On the description it comes with 4 (or maybe 8?) bobbins so I guess a cheaper bobbin keeps the price a bit lower, which I can appreciate.
“On the bobbins: I chose the PVC core for the simple reason: To consistently drill a wooden core takes expensive bits and tools, well out of the reasonable price range. By using PVC, with turned wood ends, I get a stable size/diameter, with good rigidity in the length needed with light weight, and low cost. So, I can offer extra bobbins in packages, and sell them for $10, a price far lower than most makers extra bobbins.”
A narrow orifice often means that the wheel was originally designed to spin flax (linen). Not 100%, but often.
If you’re on Ravelry, send a photo of this wheel to the group Antique Spinning Wheels. They’ll not only identify it but probably give you the name of someone who can get it into tip-top shape and help you with ratios.
New spinners (I may sound experienced, but my physical skills are those of a beginner) often treadle too fast and make the wheel grab the fiber more quickly than they can draft it. Practice treadling without any fiber in your hands; maybe read a book or pet a cat/dog. A steady, regular rhythm is good.
But check things out w/Antique Spinning Wheels; it’s truly an amazing group.