Linen Ridge Stitch - Still Need Help! Pleeez :D

How-to Questions
1

Hello, All! :hug:
Just wondering if anyone ever figured out the mystery code to achieving the “what-it’s-supposed-to-look-like-if-you-do-it-correctly” result for the [B]Linen [U]Ridge[/U][/B] stitch patt (not just the [I]Linen[/I] stitch pattern)…
As with a few others, I was introduce to this attrative stitch patt via [I][B]“Treads,”[/B][/I] the very cute fingerTIPless mitts pattern from [COLOR=darkred]RAVELRY[/COLOR]…and can’t for the life of me discern why I’m not achieving the results that others have (and rather easily it seems, according to most). I’ve followed the directions carefully, over and over and over and over and…well, you get the point.
I sent a messg to the designer, and for a brief spell we pondered if maybe it had to do with the manner in which Continental vs English methods are used in creating the stitches (she said she’s self-taught English-style, while I’m self-taught Continental). She also mentioned that it continues to puzzle her why some knitters are able to produce the pattern with zero problems, while others (myself included here) have not been as successful.
I told her that since I know how to knit both ways (albeit with the English method, I’m more than awkward and [I]far[/I] too slow. I overwhelmingly prefer Continental…[B][I]and[/I][/B] I’m right-handed to boot!)…that I’d try it out and let her know of my results.
So, I found myself some scrap yarn (had to set the Malabrigo aside before it became the overly tortured victim of frogiside) and cast on 84 stitches, dividing them in half. Worked the stitch patt over the first 42 sts using the English method, and then switched to Continental for the remaining 42. Other than the way the stitches themselves were turned (w/one method, the working stitches face toward the knitter, whereas w/the other method, the stitches face away), there was NO difference as to whether or not I was able to achieve the intended results…because I [I]wasn’t[/I] able to…using [I]either[/I] method!!!
I even wondered for a split second if I were following stitch patt instructions for flat knitting vs in-the-round…and that maybe I was following an older version of the patt and hadn’t updated it (now wouldn’t [I][B]that[/B][/I] would explain a lot?!) But almost immediately, I realize it couldn’t be so easy, for if it were, someone [I][B]else[/B][/I] would have surely discovered as much long ago.
I’m pretty much to the point where I’m now looking for alternative patt to the [B][I]Linen Ridge[/I][/B] , because I just don’t know what it is I’m doing wrong. :?? While it’s awful others have experienced the same failure as I, I must admit it [I][B]is[/B][/I] a bit of a relief that it isn’t “just me.” Aye yi yi! :frog: What’s a knitter to do?!
I know it’s been some time since people have commented on the topic, but I thought I’d try anyway to see if anyone has discovered what the issue is. I’d really like to use THIS stitch pattern because it’s what attracted me to the gloves to begin with, so ANY help would be [I][B]greatly[/B][/I] appreciated! :hug:

[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][I][COLOR=purple]God, please grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference.:knitting: [/COLOR][/I][/FONT]

2

Could you post the instructions for the stitch pattern? I’m not familiar with it, but could help you out if I know what you’re supposed to be doing.

BTW you don’t do standard continental if your sts are mounted differently than english. That would be ‘eastern’ or combined contintental. If your pattern has decs - k2tog/ssk - you need to swap one for the other to make them lean the same way as in english style.

3

This is the pattern from Raverlry. There are three things I can suggest. One is to do several repeats of the pattern rows. I tried it and it didn’t look like much until I’d finished about 16 rows. The second is to make sure you have an even number of stitches. And the third is to knit this pattern in a quiet place where you can maintain the mantra “p1, slip 1”.
You can test it out on 10sts if you do it like the swatch that is shown in the video for swatching in the round.

4

Thanks for posting the pattern link salmonmac. It helps a lot when we can look at the actual pattern…

Helre’s the st pattern:
Linen Ridge Stitch (in the round)
Row 1: purl
Row 2: *(wyib sl1, p1), repeat from *
Row 3: purl
Row 4: *(p1, wyib sl1), repeat from *

Maybe what’s tripping you up is the slip sts. They’re slipped as if to purl, which means you insert the needle as if to purl, however the yarn is in back. So you have to p1, move the yarn back, slip, move the yarn to front, p1, and so on. It would be just like doing p1 k1 except you slip the st instead of knitting it.

5

I want to do these now so I’ve been trying to get the pattern right. I move the yarn forward to purl, back to slip, it still doesn’t look right. I’m trying it flat now and knitting R 1 & R3 to give purls on the RS but it still looks odd. I get ridges, yes, but the pictures show a sort of diamond effect that isn’t there for me.

6

It takes several rows to see the rather subtle diamond pattern. I keep thinking that seed st would work here too although the Linen Ridge is a denser and probably warmer stitch.

7

Hey, All!
First, thanks to everyone for responding and the assistance…I really appreciate it. :hug:
Yes, I’ve considered/followed all of the suggestions mentioned here. One of the first things I did was to (painstakingly) follow the directions line-by-line, stitch by stitch, and still I was unable to produce a clear stitch pattern. The yarn I’m using is Malabrigo Worsted in the Damask Rose colorway, which is (@ least the dye lot I have) a very mild, subtle colorway, so there are no “issues” regarding the changes in tone overshadowing or hiding the stitch pattern. Not to mention others have used Malabrigo [I][B]and/or[/B][/I] more “aggressive” colorways, and still managed to obtain an obvious pattern.
Just to be clear, I don’t mean to insinuate or outright say that the pattern itself is not achieved…(if I wasn’t clear on this, and/or gave the wrong impression, my sincerest of apologies). The pattern is present (albeit, I have to “stretch” the section a smidge and look very closely). My issue is, the pattern doesn’t “pop”…IOW, if I weren’t already familiar with the stitch pattern, it would not be clear to me). My “criss-crosses” look as if they lie at the same level as the purl bumps as oppose to being on top of them, as they do in the work of other knitters. As a result, the diagonal lines are not evident, and the overall stitch patt just looks like rows and rows of purl stitches (I believe the terminology I used when I initially wrote to the designer was “Rev St St on steroids”).:wink:
I’m not alone, for, as you all can personally see, there [I][B]are[/B][/I] a few “finished projects” (in [COLOR=darkred]RAVELRY[/COLOR]) in which stitching looks very similar if not the same as the results I achieve…and [I][B]there[/B][/I]in lies my question. Why is the pattern so obvious for some knitters, and not for others (even when using like yarns)? For some, the diagonal lines and “criss-crosses” are unmistakeable, while for others (like moi), it’s more of a “hmm…” moment. By the way, a special thanks to those of you who provided a link to the actual pattern/directions…I can’t believe I forgot to do so - a “DUH!” :gah: moment on my part. Again, my apologies.
In her initial response to me, one thought the designer presented was that maybe it was the yarn…maybe the pattern is more condusive to some yarns than others. A reasonable suggestion, I thought, so I pulled out 2 other yarns and tried the pattern again…same result…nodefinitiveness.
I gave it another go last night, w/no change. I thought maybe when purling, my tension might be too tight. So I did yet another round (of directions…not just another round of stitching), staying mindful of my tension…no difference.
Regarding my knitting methods, they are the same as those shown in the Continental videos on this site. Consulting the videos on this site was also one of the first things I did to ensure I was knitting “correctly”. I did learn to knit from a “Learn to Knit” kit, but the methods were the same as shown in the video. Of this I am certain.
I [I][B]thought[/B][/I] I purled English style the same as shown in the videos…but I could be wrong. It’s not my usual way of stitching, so this most certainly [I]could[/I] be due to why my stitches faced one way with one method, and the opposite way with the other. Regardless of whichever way the working stitches faced while on the needle, however, really didn’t affect whether the Linen Ridge pattern stood out or not…so it wasn’t a possibility I gave extended consideration to.
As was suggested here, the designer also mentioned that it takes several rows for the pattern to be clear…but here’s my thought on this advice. If others were able to achieve a definitive pattern in the number of rows dictated in the pattern, then I should be able to discern a pattern in the same number of rows.
I appreciate the suggestions that it could be the way I’m slipping my stitches, and whether I’m doing so with the yarn in the back or front…but I’m certain I’m following the correct methods here as well. I don’t consider myself a newbie knitter…so slipping stitches (purlwise or knitwise) is an easy thing…as is slipping them wyib or wyif.
I definitely checked the number of my stitches because it’s something I do twice…once before the Lateral Braid, and once afterward, due to that last potentially troublesome stitch. I count to make sure I’m still at a 40-stitch count…which is the correct count according to pattern directions.
Again, a thank you to EVERYone for your offers of advice and help. :hug: I’m open to any and everything anyone has to say…yes, I’ve considered most, if not all of your suggestions, but if you can think of anything else, I’d love to hear it. Until then, I’ll just keep at it…maybe I’ll be able to figure it out if I do it often enough! :wink:
p.s. This is a great pattern…anyone is considering a fingerless or fingerTIPless gloves/mitts project, you should definitely give “Treads” a go! :thumbsup:

8

Yes! I did think of substituting w/the Seed Stitch (aka Moss Stitch) pattern, but I’m the stubborn type and I refuse to concede to the Linen Ridge Stitch until I’ve done all that I can do!:wink:

9

:hug: Ah ha! So it’s really not just me!!! So you know what I’m talking about, right…? When I say the pattern doesn’t “pop” the way it seems to do in other projects?!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! :hug: You are now on my Christmas card list!

10

Ah, shucks, for Christmas I want…

You know, I am a newish knitter and so I thought maybe I’m not getting the tension right. I’m not sure that even for me that’s the problem. I had cotton yarn handy and was using that, I intend to try it in something else. I have to wonder if some things work for some people and not others for some reason I’ll never know. This is too pretty to give up on…and yes, I can get stubborn. We can be stubborn together, I guess. IF I get it to work and IF I know why, I’ll let you know.

11

OK, I tried it again and this time it shows the pattern. I’m using different needles, don’t think that’s it but might be, and the yarn is some really cheap nasty pastel variegated stuff I chose to give new needles a test drive. (If they work with cheap, nasty stuff, they’ll work with anything?) My best guess is it’s RHSS, I was given it unlabeled. I think the yarn made the difference. FWIW and of course YMMV. I’m going to try it with better yarn and see what happens. Anyhow, I thought you’d like to know what’s happening with that pattern for me. I’m going to try making mitts from the pattern, just don’t do fingers at all.

12

You might have hit on it - This patternmay need a firmer yarn with a tighter twist to it to show the sts better than a soft loosely spun one.

13

Ahhhh!
Maybe that [B][I]IS[/I][/B] it, Suz.
I do believe you and GrumpyGram (who is not such a grump…@ least [I][B]I[/B][/I] don’t think so…but some people have a rep to protect, so far be it for me to spread the word ;))…just may have hit on it.
It quite possibly [I][B]could[/B][/I] be the yarn’s twist (or lack thereof). Actually, this [I]did[/I] occur to me at one point much earlier on, when the designer initially suggested the yarn as being the culprit.
But I’d quickly (and, as it turns out, unwisely) dismissed it when I saw the work of other Ravelers who’d also used Malabrigo. What I [I][B]didn’t[/B][/I] consider was the now so-clearly-obvious possibility that [I][B]their[/B][/I] Mala may have had a tighter twist than mine. Maybe even just a smidge tighter could be the difference.
Hmmm…
Well, ladies…I gotta hand it to you. You’ve helped me tre[I][B]men[/B][/I]dously, and I can’t thank you enough. The fact that you all took time out of your day to provide help to a fellow knitter in need is so greatly appreciated, I can’t even begin to tell you how much. And I truly mean this, because now I can proceen on with the knowlege that I’m [I][B]not[/B][/I] "just an idiot!"
I’ll continue to check in, just in case someone “discovers” something…please let me know if there’s anything I can do for any of you.
My best to you and yours!!!:hug:
p.s. I’m [I]knitterbug13[/I] on [COLOR=darkred]RAVELRY[/COLOR], too. Please say hi whenever you’re in the neighborhood! :waving:

14

p.s. All…I just did a “search” separation for “[I]Malabrigo” [/I]again in the FINISHED PROJECTS section for the “Treads” pattern, and this time I made it a point to look at [I]all[/I] of them, and there [I]are[/I] some project results in which the pattern is evident, but others in which it is not so clear (IOW…their stitch sections look a lot like mine).
I should have done this from the beginning, :gah: instead of looking at only “one or two.” Makes me think all the more that [B]Suzeeq[/B] and [B]Gram[/B] were correct…the difference could just be in the twist of the yarn.

15

please let me know if there’s anything I can do for any of you.

Ha! I’ll make you sorry you said it already!

Have you actually tried it with another yarn yet? I’m eager to hear how it goes for you. I’m really glad my input was helpful. I get so so so much help here, I feel like I want to do something to help someone else once in a while. When I saw those gloves, I just had to give 'em a go.

Thanks for posting the pattern, it was nice to find one that the cheap yarn I have works up well in! I’m making my granddaughter “texters” to keep her hands warm when she has her phone out. Kids! Anyhow, long story short (too late! I know!) the lateral braid needs to be joined when you come to the end of the round. Works great when I’m doing 1 @ a time, but with 2 mitts on the needles for 2 @ a time, I don’t see a good way to do it–one end of the round is on the needle point, the other is on the cable. I actually took the stitches for one to a holder so I could do the join on the other one, then put them back on, with the 1st 2 braids but I’m not doing it again. Any idea how to make it work?

AND:mrgreen: I’m old enough to be as grumpy as I darned well please! ::p:
I tell my GKs I’m Grumpy Gramma and they laugh. :rofl: Yeah, I guess I do have rep to maintain. :teehee:

16

I was getting the same results you were, pattern was not there or if it was,:???: :zombie: :zombie: it was really collapsed. Here is what I found made it work for me, and why I think it wasn’t working my first try.

I’m using the free Treads mitt pattern from Ravelry. When I was doing the linen stitch for some reason I thought the 4 RND pattern ended with a purl row and began with a purl row, thus I think I was unconsciously putting an extra purl row between each 4 round set. Also I wasn’t sure that I had alternated slipping or purling the first stitch of the slip stitch rounds (rounds 2 and 4). So, after rereading the stitch discription, I made sure I did each RND absolutely as stated: 1 RND, purl; 2nd, *sl1pw wyb, p1, *rep; 3 RND, purl; 4 RND, *purl1, sl1pw wyb, *rpt. When I kept repeating these 4 rows exactly, voila!!! The pattern shows up big time. :thumbsup: :woot:

So, ending the 4 round pattern with a slip stitch round, starting the next 4 rounds with a purl round, and making sure to alternate the first stitch of slip stitch rounds fixed my problem. Maybe the same will work for you. One can hope. :aww:

17

The second row on the pattern I have is different. It says (wyib sl1, p1). Yours above seems to say to slip one and THEN wrap yarn to back. But yarn needs to come back to front to purl. Right? I’m having the same problem with the pattern not coming out right. Is there a mistake in my pattern? But how would you wrap to back and then purl?

Thanks for any help!

18

I probably didn’t use the right abbreviations. Here is what I do for the 4 rounds.

Round 1 purl all the way around. For round 2, move yarn to back, slip
one stitch as if to purl (purl wise), move yarn to front, purl one.
Then repeat this 2-step sequence eg. move yarn to back, slip 1 purl
wise, move yarn to front, purl 1. Continue this 2-step sequence to end
of round. Round 3 is a purl round. Round 4, purl the first stitch,
move yarn to back, slip one stitch purl wise, move yarn to front, purl
one, move yarn to back, slip one stitch purl wise, move yarn to front,
purl one. Continue 2-step pattern to end. Round 1 of second set of 4
rounds is a purl round.

Rounds 2 and 4 have the slipped stitches. Round 2 starts with a
slipped stitch. Round 4 starts with a purl stitch then next stitch is
slipped. You will see on the inside/back of your knit fabric a strand
of yarn behind each slipped stitch. Those little strands can help you
determine where you are in the pattern should you have to put your
work down in the middle of the pattern work.

I hope this explanation helps clarify what I was trying to say. If
not, give me another shout out.

19

We have the same info. With the yarn in back of working needle, Slip first st as if to purl (your needle goes in front leg of stitch from right to left then stitch is moved to right hand working needle), bring yarn to front of fabric, then purl one stitch, move yarn to the back, then slip one st from left to right hand needle as if purling, etc. I’m right-handed and holding working yarn in right hand, stabbing and wrapping.

Round 4 starts with a purlstitch then a slipped stitch whereas Round 2 starts with a slipped stitch then a purl stitch. Location of Slipped stitches alternates between rounds 2 and 4.

Rounds 1and 3 are purl rounds.

20

Look at what I bolded above - the slip stitch is done with the yarn in back, then you bring it forward to do the purl. To slip purlwise that only refers to how you insert the needle, the yarn stays put unless otherwise indicated as it does on this pattern.