Lace gauge or normal gauge?

Hi all!
I’m working on a lace top, my own design, I’ve made other things of my own design and found it quite simple - as long as you get your gauge right and all your measurements obviously. This is my first garment made totaly out of lace, and already my mind is going crazy with questions, like how am i supposed to decrease when all the actuall decreases in the pattern stitch are decorative? I’ll ask that question some time in the future, But for now I’ve only just picked up my needles and knitted a gauge. I knitted the gauge in the lace pattern stitch, as i thought a normal stockinette stitch gauge would be all wrong besides the top is completely lace.
Thing is the lace pattern stitch creates a wavy/scallop edging allover. So how do i measure it correctly?
I don’t think knitting a straight forward stickinette gauge would make sense in this case, but tell me if I’m wrong. If I’m not then i guess I’m just confused as of how to measure this gauge I’ve made!
can anyone help me?
Thanks in advance!

One way to do it, is to make about 3 pattern repeats and measure how many inches per repeat. Then you can tell how many repeats to get the measurement you want.

I did that… my gauge is 64 sts and 36 rows, thats 4 pattern repeats done 3 times. The only reason i can’t measure it is because it makes a wavy/scallop/uneven edging on the bottom and at the sides, am i supposed to measure the widest part or the thinnest part? every part of my gauge measures differently.
Do you know what i mean?

Is your top going to be wavy at the sides, or do you have selvedge stitches for seaming? Maybe you could average out the uneven edges. I’ve made lacy sort of tops, at least the bottom half, and just go by pattern repeats. If I’m wrong, I get to take it out and start over again…

Try IK fall '06 for a good discussion of shaping in lace with lots of charts to show what they mean. For the swatch, instead of following a formula like (measurement in inches + ease in inches) x swatch spi = CO#, think about what this swatch means for the garment. The thinnest part may be the minimum required to fit you but give a far-too-big measurement on wider parts. A photo with a ruler in for scale would help. Are you not staggering the repeats so a wider part goes next to a thinner part to balance it ou? What’s the pattern?

What is IK? ( IK fall 06 ) probably a silly question… I will post a picture of my gauge tomorrow, I’m not at the right computer! The pattern is a fern lace
Multiple of 16 sts
Row 1 (RS): K9,yo,k1,yo,K3,sk2po; rep from * to end
Row 2 and every foll WS row: Purl
Row 3 * K10,yo,K1,yo,K2,sk2po

Row 5 * K3tog,K4,yo,K1,yo,K3, (yo,K1) twice,sk2po*
Row7 * K3tog,K3,yo,K1,yo,K9*
Row9 * K3tog,K2,yo,K1,yo,K10*
Row11 K3tog,(K1,yo) twice,K3,yo,K1,yo,K4,sk2po
Row 12 Purl

My gauge is 64 sts and i repeated the above 3 times, I used two strands of Alpaca With A Twist Fino on 2.75mm needles. I measured the two middle repeats accross and got an average of 2 inches, but i still have no idea wether to measure the tallest bit or the shorter bit. Maybe when i post the pic it will be clearer…
Now theres the pattern stitch maybe i can jump to the decreasing question, how do i decrease when all the decreases in this pattern is decorative? Should i K4tog instead of 3 or sk3po?

It’s Interweave Knits magazine, this should answer all your questions about how to increase and decrease in lace.

I don’t know if IK - Interweave Knits is available to you in England, however maybe someone could find a copy of it and send it to you. As for the decs, I think they should be separate from the pattern; if you put in selvedge stitches that would work. Or you’d have to write the rows differently, or just say to `keep sts in pattern’ the way other patterns do.

I’m not quite sure what you mean Suseeq. Do you mean that on each side of the knitting before i start dec instead of knitting in the pattern st i should just do a stockinette st. I was planning on knitting the bottom half ( before zipper insertion ) on circular needles then changing to straights. I’ve never had to do these kind of dec before, I’m still not sure myself, but the most invisible way i can think of going about the dec is instead of all the K3tog do a K4tog, and instead of all the sk2po do a sk3po. as for the inc instead of a K3tog do a K2tog and instead of a sk2po do a standard sl1 k1 psso.
what do you think?

That would seem to be the most logical for decs/incs, but k4tog and sk3po are really hard to do. Are these decreases at the armhole edge? Then what about the incs - where do they go?

The dec would be at the waist, armhole edge and neck edge. and the inc would be for the bust. I know they’re hard to do, i have trouble with the K3tog already but i can’t think of an alternative that would be as invisible…

I don’t do shaping as I have virtually no waist, though I have a large bust. What I do generally is make a pattern with a couple inches of negative ease on the bust measurement so it’s snug, but not tight, and that nips in a bit at the waist. That works pretty well with lacy patterns too as the lace gives a bit. For the armhole edge, maybe CO a few stitches at the underarm when you divide for front and back and keep those in stockinette and do the decs on them. You’re only going to do a few decs, right, like 3 or 4…?

Hey, just had a thought… why not use different size needles? I’ve seen it in other patterns. Start with regular size, use smaller ones for the waist shaping, then go back to the larger for the bust.

ok have tried to post a pic of my gauge but its too big to upload on this site and i have no idea how to make it smaller. knitting i can do but computers i can’t! I decided to measure from the tallest bit as i figured the only way its wavy is because of all the dec pulling in the yarn, therefore the waves…?
I love you idea of using smaller needles for the waist suseeq, i’ve never done that before. Does that mean i have to do another gauge in the smaller needles to determine what size i use? or just go a size smaller and that should do it…? or maybe use a size smaller then 2 sizes smaller, so its more gradual?
Im still going to have to use actuall dec in the armhole and neck edge tho. I had a good idea of using circular needles and swapping the left hand needle for a tiny one that way doing a K4tog would be more of a breeze… But then I realised my denise interchangeables are only from a size 3.75mm and i’m using size 2.75mm… bummer.

You could do gauge swatches in St st with the yarn and the different needle sizes - current 1, 1 smaller, 2 smaller and - all on the same swatch so you could see how much difference it makes.