Knitting machine pattern

#1

Hello,

I don’t know if anyone is a machine knitter, too that might be able to help me (though I’m sure knitters can, too). My husband got me a knitting machine and it’s simultaneously the nicest gift and the most frustrating experience. :joy: My Nana had an old knitting machine that I tried to get repaired but couldn’t so lovely husband got me a replacement and boy is it hard!

Anyway, I can’t get my maths to work here at all. The pattern is the quartet pullover from love your knitting machine. Basically by the end of knitting the back I should have 27 stitches for the shoulders (27 each side) and 19 for the back neckline but I followed the instructions, got to the end and I have 21. I assumed it was my mistake but looking at it I still seem to get 21.

Can anyone see what I’m doing wrong?

Start with 91 stitches then bind off 3 for 2 rows.
85 stitches.
Then bind off 2 stitches for 4 rows.
77 stitches.
Bind off 1 stitch for 2 rows.
75 stitches.

75 - 27 - 27 = 21.

Thanks so much in advance for any help!

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#2

Your math looks fine. I wonder if the extra 2sts have something to do with the stitch on one side mentioned on step 9. Is the video any help?
I’m not a machine knitter but @FluffyYarn, @Mel61, @flknit5 may be able to advise.

#3

Thanks salmon Mac, the video isn’t much good to check the stitches as she’s knitting a different size (the pattern itself is from her pattern generator) but the 1 stitch neck side happens after I should have 19.

My poor brain. :joy:

#4

I think it’s probably just a simple pattern error! Especially if the pattern is from a book. Can you check with the publishers site for errata?
I wouldn’t worry about a couple of stitches.
Just check your gauge compared to the pattern gauge, and the impact on neck sizing etc.
Also look at the instructions for the front to see how those numbers pan out.
Then you can either have a one stitch wider shoulder, or work an extra 2 rows of shape shoulder to get to the correct number, or add a decrease either side of the neck ( that’s also a good way of dealing with the slightly baggier neck edge stitches!). Just take good notes to make sure to replicate changes such as extra rows, to the front piece!

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#5

You could also email her! Sore seems to have a live website. Good luck!

#6

Thanks so much Mel! The pattern is actually from a course that I bought that has a pattern generator where you put in your gauge and how big you want it and it calculates the pattern for you. I’ve sent her an email and hopefully I’ll get a reply. I’m just learning machine knitting and I wanted to take as much of the thinking part out as possible but I’ll definitely try your suggestion if I don’t get a reply.

#7

:smiley: I find it great fun!

#8

I think I’ll love it once I get over the “I’m never going to understand how to do this” part!

Do you use hand knit patterns and translate them for the machine?

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#9

Yes, I mainly use hand knitting patterns. I usually spend several hours writing it onto paper, with row counts etc.
Anything that doesn’t take too much reforming and is easy to create seams, such as raglans. I also do hybrids, where I knit the yoke by hand and then finish the body and sleeves flat. I only have a basic machine but it’s amazing what you can translate!
Ysolda Teagues patterns are great in that they are highly tailored but predominantly stocking stitch so lots of challenge but also very achievable!!

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#10

Oh that’s great to hear and thank you so much. I’ll definitely check out those patterns!

Can I ask you an extra question regarding converting patterns? If a hand knit pattern says to finish a section on purl side how does that translate to machine? Does it matter? Or does the carriage going one way do a purl and the other a knit stitch? (Hope that makes sense!)

#11

It doesn’t matter but it can get confusing given that you’re doing everything backwards. So I tend to always start right side rows with the carriage on the left and odd row count. That’s the correct orientation if the stitches were on the knitting needle. That way, it’s easier to work out which stitches to move to form a k2tog or an ask, for example.
That’s why I spend a long time translating the pattern to written instructions with row numbers and stitch counts. It’s hard to ‘read’ your knitting as the right side is facing away and back to front!! If (when!) you make a mistake on the knitting machine, you often don’t spot it until you’ve finished!!
I only have a flat bed mid gauge plastic machine (LK150) but I’ve managed to use it a lot, and with a wide range off yarn weights!!
This likks to my Ravelry page, filtered to the projects that I’ve used the machine for, at least in part. It might give you some ideas for your own work!!

https://www.ravelry.com/projects/melbroomhanger?set=&page=&search=&sort=status&view=thumbnail&craft[]=6

2 Likes
#12

Youre an absolute star! Thank you so much, I can’t tell you how helpful that is! I also have the LK150 so I’ll definitely be having a look through your ravelry. Appreciate you so much, have a lovely day!

#13

Just had a look at your lovely work! That Oksa sweater is a dream! :heart_eyes:

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#14

Thank you! :blush:

#16

Hello @Mel61 I just wanted to pop on here and say thanks for your tips regarding machine knitting hand knitting patterns. First jumper made that I would actually wear outside of the house is complete! Really appreciate your help.

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#17

Beautifully worked! This sweater will shine inside or outside the house.

#18

A tour de force! Well done! You’ll find it addictive, so stock up on your stash!! :rofl::rofl:

#19

Fabulous!

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#20

Thank you so much! And yes, I’m already doing another one :joy:

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#21

Than you!

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