Hello
I just wanted to know if there is a difference of meaning when a knitting pattern says “knit every 4 rows” vs “knit every 4th row”.
Thank you
Tania
I haven’t seen knit every 4 rows. Possibly it means to knit every row for 4 rows. I have seen that in patterns. That would mean knit across row 1, row 2, row 3 and row 4.
Knit every 4th row means to work rows 1-3 in some pattern stitch then knit across row 4. Every 4th row would be rows 4,8,12,16 etc.
Can you give us the name of your pattern and designer?
Thank you!
Here’s the line from the pattern - “Working on both sides at the same time, decrease 1 st at each neck edge every 4 rows 13 times, as follows…”
The pattern is Corner Office Vest by Amy Herzog.
Does every 4 rows means that the decrease has to be done after the 4th row, i.e. on the 5th row or does it mean it needs to be done on the 4th row itself? Are the terms (every 4 rows and on the 4th row) used interchangeably?
Hope I’ve made my confusion clear.
Ah, I see the confusion. This pattern does use “…every 4 rows…” meaning “every 4th row.” It’s not so common but here it is.
You’ve worked a row that presumably divides the vest for the neck. Now count the next row as row 1 and decrease on row 4, 8,12,16,20 and so on for 13 times. That may put the decreases on the WS or purl rows. If you prefer to decrease on RS or knit rows, you can call the next row, row 1 and dec on row 3,7,11,15,19,23 and so on. No one is going to know that you’ve skipped a row.
Thankyou very much!
I see what you mean, I will go with the WS row decrease.
Thanks again!
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Hello again!
I am continuing my new question in this thread as it is from the same pattern.
Here is the pattern section to do with the neck shaping:
“Knit to 4 sts before second marker, k2tog, k2, remove marker, join a second ball of yarn. Working both sides at the same time, decrease 1 st at each neck every…”
My question is: Since we are attaching a new ball of yarn in the middle I am assuming we continue knitting with the new ball of yarn leaving the old one behind. However when we knit back on the next row do we leave the new yarn at the stitch where we had added it a row earlier and continue with the older yarn to the end of the row? Will that not create a gap in the knitting?
Hope I have been able to make myself clear.
Thanks!
This sounds like the split for the V-neck. The gap between the two shoulders (each with its own ball of yarn) will widen as you keep decreasing at the neck edge.
Add in the new ball of yarn as indicated in the row you quoted and then k2, ssk and continue the row to the end. You can place a marker on the needle at the gap to remind yourself to work across to the gap, drop the yarn strand for that shoulder, pick up the strand for the other shoulder and work to end of row.
As you decrease at the neck edge on each side, the gap will widen hence the two balls of yarn.
Thank you again for your detailed instruction. I just realised that instead of joining the new yarn at the second marker that the design mentioned, I joined it at the third marker. I am panicking now just at the thought of frogging:(
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I have experience with frogging, lots of it. If it’s just a row or two, tinking works nicely and is a very safe way to take out sts.
It seems easiest if there are many rows to take out to take the knitting off the needles and rip back to a row before you want to restart. Then lay the knitting on a table and insert the needle in each stitch as you pull out the working yarn strand. Similar to tinking but the knitting is off the needles.
And just in case this should ever happen again, have a lifeline or three in place.
You can do this, just take it slowly!
If you have a thinner needle you can place into each stitch on the row you want or the row above, it acts as a life line and it’s a bit easier to get in than the correct size needle. Then you can either tink back a row or workmstraight off the thinner needle.
I’m so bad at frogging that I daren’t go back to the row I need and always go a row or even 2 above and then tink.
Hope it goes smoothly for you.
Thank you Salmonmac, your words are so comforting, now I just need some courage to look at the mess I made. I don’t think tinking will work for me as I’ve done quite a few rows after that.
Thank you Creations, yes I am doing as you suggested, using a thinner circular needle to create a life line, but I’m dreading the fact that I may drop a few stitches here and there. Looks quite hopeless.
Yes, if you’ve worked several rows tinking each stitch is too tedious. Use the after thought lifeline just below the errant row. Even if you miss a stitch this will still help. Then take out the working needles, rip back to the lifeline and re-insert your working needle as you pull out the lifeline. Keep watch for any stitch you might have missed with the lifeline. Have removable markers handy to catch a missed stitch so it doesn’t ladder down.
I lay the knitting out on a table and just take this slowly. It’ll work!
You can do it.
As salmonmac has said, have a bunch of removable markers handy (or safety pins, or even a thinner thread on a tapestry needle which you can get into a dropped stitch. If it’s thread just get it in there, cut the thread and tie the two ends together into a loose loop, it will hold the stitch while you sort it out), and try not to worry too much if a stitch does run a bit lower than you’d like, it can be worked back up the ladder with a crochet hook.
Do you have a crochet hook, doesnt need to be a certain size, a bit smaller than the needles is ideal.
You’ll manage.
Although tinking can be tedious i have tinked many hundreds of stitches at certain times when i was very worried about messing up and yes it’s slow but with that amount of practise it becomes much easier and faster and now i feel really comfortable tinking rather than worried, so there are benefits to messing up and redoing! I used to worry about tinking just 5 or 10 stitches during my knitting but now i undo stitches without even thinking about which is a huge benefit to my ability to knit.