Hi ime new to knitting, self learning from online platform videos, I have a pattern king cole mens cardigan, could anyone be able to advise on what this is saying, rib 6[8:4:5] work 2tog, (rib 14[15:12,13] work 2tog) 4[4:6:6] times, rib 6[8:4:5]. 73[81:87:95] St’s I do struggle with learning difficulties if someone could keep it as basic answer as possible that would be great. Many thanks
Welcome to the forum!
Rib x number of stitches means to knit or purl those stitches in whatever rib pattern you have been working, k1,p1 or k2p2 rib for example. Then you’re to “…work 2tog…” meaning either knit 2 stitches together (k2tog) or purl 2 stitches together (p2tog).
These instructions are common when a pattern changes from ribbing to the main pattern stitch for the item. These decreases will of course disrupt the rib pattern of the previous rows but once you make the decrease, look at the previous rows in order to figure out what stitch to continue with. You want the columns of knits and purls to stay aligned as much as possible.
What is the name or number of the King Cole pattern?
Hi and thank-you for reply, its king cole chunky raglan sleeve 5692.
Lovely cardigan and lots of pattern work.
Looks like k2p2 rib so work in that pattern for the given number of stitches, then either k2tog or p2tog. You’re adjusting the stitch number to accommodate the pattern stitches in the body of the sweater.
Enjoy and come back with any questions.
Yes that’s the pattern, thank-you so much for your help, I’ll do my best and probably will come back with more questions as I work through the pattern, again may thanks
Hi, I’m so sorry but I’m stuck again. Could you possibly break down this instruction to make it easierfor me to understand, as I’m not sure what it’s telling me: I am on the 14th row if that helps.
These 16 rows form patt-front opening edge St’s as cable panel with side seem edge St’s in Irish moss sts, [this bit I get, it’s the following part]
Cont as now set until left front matches back to beg of raglan armhole shaping, ending with ws. I’m so confused by that last bit.
If you can help that would be amazing,
At this point you’re to continue with the shaping or lack of it on the left front until the left front matches the length of the back up to the beginning of the raglan armhole shaping. Continue the stitch pattern that you have been working (cables or moss stitch or both) until you get to the armhole shaping and end having completed a WS row.
This part sounds a bit confusing but it’s just telling to keep knitting (in that set pattern) until younget to the right length. The length needs to be the same as the back piece up to where you started shaping the raglan edge.
If you counted rows you can do the same number. If not you can measure it up against the back and check the pattern matches.
Hope this helps
Thank you so much yes that does help alot, the back peice said to continue the moss stich for 45 cm length, I’m not sure how to do the raglan arms, trying to find a video tutorial, I’ve brought 3 of each size needles, so I get so far then stop at the arms part, n start a different section, daft I no. Thanks again so much for ypur help, when I’ve learnt how to up load photos I’ll show ypu what you have helped me create.
If you have a tapestry needle (fat sewing needle with a large hole) you can save stitches onto scrap yarn by threading up the needle with a length of yarn or perhaps embroidery thread if you have some, and then transfer each stitch off the needle and onto the thread. Tie the two ends of the thread together or secure with a safety pin or removable stitch marker if you have one. It’s ok to leave work on hold on knitting needles, but scrap yarn is cheaper than buying needles.
Stitch holders, like big safety pins, are really useful too.
If you’re stuck on the raglan instruction just ask here. I’m always amazed how quickly help is offered (I don’t think salmonmac sleeps )
To add a photo there is a little picture frame icon in the bar just above where messages are typed.
Hi I’m stuck yet again, I’m so sorry to keep reaching out like this, I am almost at the start of the Shape Front Left Slope and Raglan Armhole, but I don’t understand what’s it’s telling, as I’ve learning difficulties, if it’s possible for a break down of the instructions in simple terms.
Keeping patt correct, cast off 3 sts at beg and Dec 1 St at end of next row.
Work row 1. Dec 1 St at raglan armhole edge of next 9 rows, then on foll 17 alt rows, and at same time Dec 1st at front slope edge of 3rd:next and 9 foll 4th rows. 2sts. Work 1 row ending with ws row.
Next row k2tog and fasten off.
These instructions aren’t easy for anyone to understand. Don’t think twice about coming back to ask.
Call the next row, row 1. Cast off 3 sts at the beginning of the row (the raglan armhole) then work across the row until 2sts remain, k2together (the front slope).
Work row 2 with no decreases.
Decrease one stitch at the raglan armhole edge on rows 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 and 11.
Decrease one stitch at the raglan armhole edge on rows 13,15,17,19,21,23,25,27,29,31,33,35,37,39,41,43 and 45.
There are going to be decreases at the same time at the front slope but it depends on whether you are making the first or second size in this section of the pattern. Which size are these directions for?
Wow thankyou again for the help it’s amazing. I couldn’t of gotten this far with out this your help, thank-you so so much. the sizes are;
To fot chest 102-107cm
Actual measurement 116cm
Full length 72cm
Sleeve seam 48cm
The cast on measurement I chose is for the back. Co 86
Front Left and right panel
The sleeve ( not started yet)
I’ve chosen to try for the shal collar as winter approaches but I’m way off that part.
The sizes are the second size on the pattern, if this helps
Sounds like a good choice for this sweater too.
OK, so the decreases for the armhole are as I gave above. At the same time decrease for the Front Slope on rows 3,7,11,15,19,23,27,31,35 and 39.
The decreases at the Armhole and the Front should leave you with 2 sts remaining, k2tog, cut the yarn strand leaving about 6" to weave in and pull the yarn strand through the last stitch.
I find that it helps to write out 2 columns of numbers, one for the Armhole and one for the Front Slope decreases and then cross them off as I knit.
Looking forward to seeing this great looking cardigan!
That’s amazing thankyou so so much, but I will post a pictures of when the prices are made b4 I sew it together and after, it may take me some time to finish it tho, and will probably needs some more help at some point . Thankyou again your are a knitting guru.
Hi, I’ve a quick question, I’m at the measurements required to start the raglan armwholes, I have cast off 3, then to work the pattern until the last 2 stitches, I’m stuck on the pattern after the cast off, the row with out the cast off is.
K2, p1,13times, k0, p4, c3b,p1, c3f,p5. So how would I start the pattern after the 3 cast off, I’m confused
Good question. If you’re going to work the decrease at the very ends of the row then you need to account for the 3sts that are bound off plus one more stitch. (It takes 4sts to bind off 3sts.)
(K2, p1),13times, k0, p4, c3b,p1, c3f,p5.
I’m assuming the parentheses but if that’s wrong, let me know.
The initial K2, p1 plus one more knit stitch are needed for the bind off. So the row becomes:
Bind off 3sts, k1, p1, (K2, p1) 11times, k0, p4, c3b,p1, c3f,p5.
The other way to look at this is to follow the pattern in the previous rows. You want the stitch pattern to align with those columns of sts.
Wow that’s amazing and makes alot of sense, why they can’t put that in the pattern I don’t no. Thankyou yet again for you help and support though this project, I can’t wait until its finished.