I suddenly got this idea to knit sleep socks for my granddaughter. She likes to have socks on at night. I have spent the day looking with not really a success. I want something fast. I decided on a tube sock to do it faster but I found only one and it says fingering weight yarn. I was thinking more of a worsted weight. Anybody know of one off the top of your head.
About what size feet does granddaughter have? Free pattern.
Search include paid patterns
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&weight=worsted&pc=tube&fit=child&sort=date&view=captioned_thumbs
She’s 10. The circumference of her foot is 7.5 in
I think her last pair of shoes I got her were size 1
I don’t really know what antube sock is but this sock seems simple and no mention of a heel flap, and the toe is just the yarn pulled through the stitches so possibly it’s what you are looking for.
It could maybe be knit plain without the stitch pattern too. There’s an option for strip or plain at the top.
Sizes are children’s you’d need to convert the size 1 (UK?) Size into to European size, there are charts online.
Edit to add… I just saw it says “tube sock” so it is.
Thanks for the suggestions @Creations and @GrumpyGramma. I found a pattern called simply irresistible socks-worsted by Christie Archer. I have to go get my yarn today. But I am looking at the gauge directions and I don’t know what it’s saying. It says ( 2” in the round) after gauge.
Then says 8-9 K stitches in 1x1 rib unstretched
Then says 16-18 ST (stitches) total in 1x1 rib unstretched. How am I knitting up swatch to check gauge. Am I knitting in the round on swatch? Is the first just counting knit stitches even though it k1p1. And the second is counting all the stitches. As I type this out it kind of sounds like that would make sense,
Maybe this one?
The gauge is given as 9sts/2" or 18sts/4" in the round. That’s total sts not just knits although unstretched ribbing can look like mostly knits.
Usually this gauge is measured slightly stretched which gives you a bit of leeway on the gauge. You can knit a swatch in the round by a couple of methods. Here’s a tutorial from Ysolde.
You can exactly quote the numbers with context if you think it will help. Please don’t give us a large portion of the pattern due to designer copyright.
Yes this is the exact wording in the pattern:
( 2” in the round) after the word gauge.
Then says 8-9 K stitches in 1x1 rib unstretched
Then says 16-18 ST (stitches) total in 1x1 rib unstretched.
I went back to ravelry page and saw the mention of gauge relating to 2” and 9 stitches. It was all very confusing to me so thank you for bringing that to my attention. I have never done a swatch in the round so I appreciate the reference you directed me to. So to be clear, I knit however large a swatch I desire and then measure 2 inches in the center to check gauge.
The most accurate way to do this is to knit a 5-6inch swatch in the round in rib and measure over the middle 4 inches. Go for the about 18sts/4inches in rib.
It seems that many of the knitters on Ravelry just started a sock and used that as a gauge measure. The cuff is k1p1 rib although the instep is in garter and that may account for the different gauges.
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I’m going to be heretical here so you’ve been warned. 
If your gauge is typically close to what the yarn label shows, I expect that you don’t need to worry much about gauge. Just cast on and start knitting. After a number of rounds stretch out the work and think about your granddaughter’s ankle and how it will fit and is there stretch to go over her heel. If you decide you need to change needle size you won’t have done much, if any, more knitting than would be needed for a swatch that you’d frog.
I made spiral tube socks for my grandson once. I’m not sure he ever wore them but they would stretch to fit a much larger foot than his. The spiral rib pulled in a lot and stretched over the heel. I think you’ll be fine if you just cast on and start the pattern.
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A tube sock is just a tube. No heel. The toe closed like the top of a hat means there’s no sole or instep specifically so different parts of the socks get more even wear. No heel means kids might wear them out before they outgrow them. When I did spiral socks they were closed like a hat. Tube socks were popular when I was a teenager. I didn’t like them, they didn’t fit right so my brothers didn’t have to worry about sisters borrowing them.
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Ok. So only have big box stores in town and don’t want to order, takes too long. So I looked at what yarns people used. I know the weight, worsted - 4. Looked at the gauge on description of several yarns that were used but my question is that it appears that the recommended needle was 8 or 9 whereas on the pattern they are using size 4. One person in particular that fell into this category said she followed pattern exactly and was perfect. I don’t quite understand this.
It may be the smaller needle is to tighten the gauge. It seems to be generally what is used by the project knitters. Some comment on the tighter knit which does make these socks more durable.
Worsted weight is generally classed as #4 but that covers a range of gauges. Give it a try with your yarn and adjust the needle size. I see some who have even used a size 2 needle.
The advantage of these tubes is that the ribbing works over the heel while the garter is bendable at the instep.
Maybe the person who used a 4 was a UK size and the 8 and 9 were US size?
9 US is 5.5 mm, 10 US is 6 mm and this is a UK size 4
Just a thought, could be wrong
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Here is an assortment of free tube socks with revelry.
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Actually, Ravelry lists both US and mm sizes. Many of the projects list US4 - 3.5mm.
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Well I am just going to get started. I got baby bee stork struck sorbet ballet. I have only done socks using dpn and flexi flip. So I am planning on trying magic loop. I have a 30 inch cable and I have both 4 or 5 inch #4 tips. Is this long enough to do magic loop? Also new to me is twisted German cast on. Doesn’t look too difficult
Looks like nice yarn in whatever color you have chosen. I haven’t tried it but a 30" cable should work.
Maybe. For me doing magic loop, longer is better. I can use a 32" needle for ml but tend to go longer. I think the 4" tips may work better than the 5". If you’re not happy with magic loop on a 30" needle you can always use one of the other methods.
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Because the size I am doing is next to smallest, things are doing ok. I am working on the cuff. I might feel differently as I progress. I am actually liking the magic loop, once I got past first row. I might actually order a longer cable just to have one. My sets longest one was 30”.
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Ok I’m revisiting the gauge question. I worked the cuff with US 4 tips but it seemed to be maybe it would be too snug. So I ripped it out and started over with US 5 tips. I’m still coming up with too many stitches in 2” by quite a few. But it does look better. This is how it’s written in the pattern:
Gauge (2” in the round)
8-9 K stitches in 1x1 rib un-stretched
16-18 ST total in 1x1 rib un-stretched
K= knit and ST= stitches per abbreviation
I have 16 stitches in 2 inches. I come back to reading literally what gauge says and the distinction between K stitches and then total stitches. So I would be ok if I am correctly interpreting this.