Newbie knitter here…I’m knitting (I use that term loosely!) a baby hat and I’ve got a question about the ribbing: I’ve cast on 50 stitches and am doing a k2 p2 all the way across. I’ve ended the row with k2. Should I start the next row with k2 or p2? I’ve been just knitting along my merry little way, k2 p2, and what I see doesn’t look at all like ribbing. It all looks the same. The pattern just says a k2 p2 ribbing, so I’ve been starting every row with a k2.
I’m thinking that, because stitches 49 and 50 were knitted, maybe I need to start the next row with a purl. Then, THAT row will end with p2 and then I’ll start the 3rd row with a knit.
Is that right? I can’t tell you how many times I’ve pulled this apart. I soooooo want to be a knitter! UGH!
The basic thing to remember with ribbing is to knit the knits and purl the purls as they face you. It doesn’t matter if you are knitting in the round or knitting flat. SO learn what the stitches look like and you’re good to go.
Some things to know…
k2p2 ribbing is a multiple of 4 - so cast on appropriately if you want to use this one…this is especially important for knitting in the round.
k1p1 ribbing is a multiple of 2 - a good alternative if you cast on wrong, but you still don’t want an odd number.
The back side of a knit stitch is a purl and the back side of a purl is a knit. So if you are knitting flat and you end with a knit stitch you start with a purl on the other side.
When doing socks I recommend you arrange the stitches so you end with purls and always start with knits on each needle. You’ll have less problems with ladders I think.
It won’t start really looking like ribbing for 5 or 6 rows usually so if you’re doing it correctly give it time.
:?? Ive been knitting for like 8 rows…it really does look wonky though. I think I may have boo booed though. I can gently stretch the fabric, and see that its not looking right.
[color=red][/color][size=6][/size]YES!!!
[color=black][/color][size=3][/size]It worked! I actually have ribbing! Phew! I have to tell you I was sweating there for a while.
I’m a newbie also and am knitting a ribbed scarf, k3 p3. What my directions recommended doing is having a “marked” needle and an unmarked one. Cast on to the unmarked needle, then start the first row with k3 and you also end with a k3. Now all of the stitches are on the “marked” needle. When the stitches are on my “marked” needle, I know to start and end with p3, when they’re on the unmarked needle, I start with k3. This has really made it so much easier. And also I AM getting to recognize stitches, so that helps too if I lose count! I don’t know how this translates to working in the round. Good luck!
That’s an interesting tip, Julie. Hadn’t heard that one before. It’ll serve you better in the long run though to learn what the stitches look like. It comes in handy for other patterns, too.
ITA! But I only know what they look like from the BACK! And I’d also like to know how to count rows done and be able to “spot” an extra or slipped stitch. I guess that comes with practice! It’s all I can do to follow the patterns and count correctly. Someday I’ll figure out the technical part of knitting!!
Ok. This is how my knitting “teacher” taught me… Do the stitch that you SEE. So, if you see a purl stitch, do a purl. If you see a knit stitch, do a knit. Simple as that. Unless, of course, the pattern states otherwise! kisses and hugs to you and your knitting!
Jeez Julie! I wish I had seen your post sooner! :doh: Becauuuuuuuuse, five minutes after I posted my last message about how I figured it out, I discovered that I had mixed up my starting stitches and screwed the WHOLE thing up once again. I tried to pull out the stitches and only managed to make it worse!
Anyhow, since I’m such a visual person, your marked needle tip makes total sense to me. :happydance:
Thanks.
Blessings,
Leslie
PS: If I added 2 more stitches to my cast on, I would always have a k2 starting point. Do you think it would make much difference with how the hat comes out? Here’s the pattern:
[color=red]Cast on 50
Work in ribbing (K2, P2) for 2 inches (figure A) Work in st st for 1", ending on a purl row
K1, K2tog, YO, K2tog across row (figure B)
Purl across row
Repeat ** to**
Work in st st until hat measures 5", ending with a purl row K2tog across row
Purl across row
Repeat ***to ***
Break yarn, pull through stitch, knot securely and weave seam with same yarn [/color]
You can CO 52 if you want, to divide by 4, but when you come to the row with the YOs in it, that’s a pattern that’s divided by 5, so you won’t come out right there and every repeat of it. Stick with the 50 sts, and learn to read a knit and a purl stitch so you’ll be able to figure it out even if you stop in the middle of a row.
Okay here’s a photo I took awhile back of knit and purl stitches. The bottom part is stockinette and the row the arrows are pointing to are in k2p2 ribbing. See the knit stitch is wearing a scarf and the purl stitch is wearing it backwards.
Sorta reversed… but when you turn your work, forget what it was on the other side and work the stitches however they look on this side. Knit the knits, purl the purls.
Yeah…so you’re actually knitting what was purled on the other side. And purling what was knit on the other side. :teehee:
THAT’S why those instructions that say “Knit the knits and purl the purls” always screw me up. Because I am going by what I did on the row before. So, that description should never be used in a knitting pattern.
I had that problem with a pattern on the Lion Brand website. It said to “knit the knits and purl the purls”, and I ended up with seed stitch instead of ribbing.
So, it’s all in how it will be interpreted by the individual knitter.
Yes, it’s unclear, they just expect people to know how they’re defining a purl. But knitting what was purled in previous rounds only applies to knitting ribbing flat.
Sarah
That’s true, and why it’s better to forget what you did on the previous row or round and work the stitch as it appears in front of you on the row you’re doing now.
But, back when I was first learning to knit, I did EXACTLY what the instructions said to do. I didn’t know what the stitches were supposed to look like.
If it said to knit the knits, then I knitted the stitches I had knit the row before.
It’s much better to write out a pattern so that it is easy for ALL levels of knitters to understand, so there is no confusion.
and hugs 
to you and your knitting!