My project is knitting circular coasters.
The instructions say to cast on 4 stitches [which I have done]
next I am to join for knitting in the round.
How do I do that with only 4 sts on 1 needle?
My project is knitting circular coasters.
The instructions say to cast on 4 stitches [which I have done]
next I am to join for knitting in the round.
How do I do that with only 4 sts on 1 needle?
If you’re knitting in the round with one needle it has to be a circular long enough to make at least one loop. What kind of needle do you have the four stitches on?
Maybe it’s easier with double pointed rather than circular?
Good luck!
Curculars are double pointed needles. They are just much more flexible (and longer) in between the points.
Well, yes they are indeed double pointed, of course. What I meant was standard straight double pointed as they often come in a set of 4 or 5, so working with say 8 points rather than just 2. The video I linked increases the points to 4 rather than 2… easier to get a small number of stitches on.
I always use two 16 inch circular needles to knit small projects. To me it’s easier than double pointed needles
This is a very easy solution to knitting in the round for small objects. I use it on socks
Petunia, do you have experience of starting with just 4 stitches to join in the round, which the original poster was asking about?
Any tips for them?
I too always use two circulars for knitting in the round, but when you are starting with a small number of stitches, it’s very difficult to stop the stitches / row twisting, the needles falling out, and the whole thing becoming disoriented!!
Working a lace hat from the crown, after several abortive starts, I found it easiest to start with dpns flat on a table. As the pattern is circular, you are likely to be increasing rapidly in the first few rows, so you only have a few rows of awkwardness to contend with!! I’d put one stitch on each of two needles and the remaining two stitches on the third dpn, and lay them flat in the round position. Then try to work each stitch in order, barely lifting the needles from the table. By the time you get to 12 or 15 stitches in total, it is usually stable enough to pick up without twisting and you can change to your preferred method of working in the round.
That makes sense. I had all 4 stitches on 1 dpn
I would be easier to join using a circular needle. Thanks GrumpyGramma!
Thank you for the video!
Thanks for your help!
You’re welcome. Since I avoid dpn for knitting in the round like the plague, for me it’s easier with a circular. Others will day dpn are easier. Whatever works for you is the right way for you to do it.
This sounds like a very good description of how to get started with so few stitches.
I’ve struggled with a circular on a much larger number of stitches, say a sleeve, due to there being too few stitches to move freely and felt the straight part of my circular was too long to be able to position stitches well and also that the cable was causing me difficulty, the ability to just ‘remove’ a needle with a set of straight dpns, and having more points which can move freely, seems to me to be a logical solution. I’ve been toying with buying sets of dpns for this reason.
Magic loop and traveling loop work fine for me on larger pieces but not the smaller pieces.
Thanks for the info, even though I’m not doing this project I find it very useful as an inexperienced knitter with lots to learn.
Thank you! So much trial and error!!
I will sometimes put an extra stitch on one needle and when getting ready to join, slip the extra stitch, knit the two together and it helps to get rid of the long yarn in the middle. Also helps keep knitting straight. Videos are also helpful
Ok, adding the extra stitch helped.