Japanese pattern - pick up stitches from a crochet chain? and a progress pic :)

Hello and Happy New Year! :tada: :fireworks: I have been working on the project for my daughter, and I’ve hit a point where I have another question. It says to pick up 35 sts from a crochet chain worked ahead of time. I think that means at the end of the indicated increases (now completed) I do a chain and then knit into this chain in the next row? I’ve attached a pic of the pattern and the text from the “helpful hints”. I’m double checking I’m not misinterpreting the instructions. I’ve also attached a progress pic - there are a few obvious errors (excuse the cat hair too!) so this is likely a practice sleeve to master all the required techniques, but you get the general idea. It’s probably the most complicated pattern I’ve ever worked on, but I love the end design. Any advice is very welcome and much appreciated. Wishing everyone a very positive 2025 :grinning:

Link to the free pattern on ravelry https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fontaine-hooded-jacket

Not that I’ve ever made this before, but it looks like you’re in the right place and have the right idea, crochet the chain and work into it coming back on the next row.
There is a method of crocheting a chain and placing the stitches on the needle before working them, which may help to keep the transition between the stitches already worked and those on the chain at a better gauge to avoid a gap or ladder (which is what I’d have concerns over. I’m not sure I see the point of the crochet chain and might do a knit or cable cast on for the new stitches, but that’s me).

Looking good so far.

Beautiful pattern and color for this sweater.
The stitches picked up on the crochet chain seem like a provisional cast on. You can work the crochet chain with scrap yarn if that is the case. Read further in the pattern, maybe under Finishing or somewhere near the end of the pattern to see if there is a section on pulling out the chain and grafting the resulting live sts. It’s a possibility.

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That was my thought, since the chain is worked in advance. It’s most likely intended as a temporary holder that will be removed later. But the placement of where that happens is…interesting. I’d definitely read ahead to see what use will be made of this crochet chain.

Is there any further information? Japanese patterns don’t have a lot in terms of written directions do they?

What instructions are given for working the chain?

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No instructions at all, it’s like they expect you to know what to do. I’ve posted an update :slight_smile:

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The edge where this crochet chain happens is just going to be seamed together with a crochet slip stitch at finishing anyway so I don’t think it matters whether you use a crochet chain or just cast on the additional stitches. Bare in mind not all pattern designers make use of a knitted cast on, if they know long tail and backwards e loop cast on which is not ideal for a long section, then they may turn to a crochet chain to get a longer set of new stitches.
From what I can see it happens on right back and left front. I would just get to the point where its needed and use a knitted cast on, working it a little loose in tension.
Or you could work the crochet chain, and pick up a new stitch in each chain loop. There’s nothing about removing it later, it’s just to provide stitches.
Or you could make it with scrap yarn as a provisional cast on and later, when it comes to finishing you would need to remove it stitch by stitch and work the crochet slip stitch seam into each of the stitches that the provisional was holding.
Personally I’d rather not be trying to undo a provisional and crocheting into it at the same time, that’s me, I’d rather knit cast on. You are anyway going to turn to work the wrong side row so turn, knit cast on 35, then begin the ws row.

I’ve used a crochet slip stitch seam and it’s very nice, more stretch, flexibility and softness than mattress stitch, but it often needs some experimentation with crochet hook size and how much to tighten each stitch so that the result is nice. I undid mine a few times and redid it until I was happy with it, that’s why I wouldn’t want to be working it into a set of stitches with a provisional cast on yarn, I like the safety of knowing my fabric and stitches aren’t going anywhere.
You could choose to mattress stitch the seam instead which would be fine, in which case you would have no need for a provisional cast on.
Or you could graft or faux graft that bottom section of the seam to make the back and front blend at the join, it would be a bind off to a provisional cast on (you could skip the bind off in the relevant section of stitches and fully graft), but I am not sure the rest of the seam would then align smoothly, one part being flatter with the graft and the other part being a stitch in from the edge with the crochet seam or mattress stitch seam.
Matress stitch could be worked tightly as usual for the cuff down to this straight section and then worked loosely as a faux graft, bind off edge into cast on edge across those cable stitches to make a neat seam. I’m not convinced it’s needed though.

I think there are enough options for finishing the cardigan without worrying about this 35 stitch crochet chain. It would be a shame to give up or be unable to make progress just for this one part.

What do you think?

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Thankyou for all your suggestions! I really appreciate the time you spent writing such a comprehensive response, especially the information about the seams - so many options.

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I think you’ve resolved your issue. I wanted to mention earlier that a crochet cast on is a really good way to add stitches at the end of a row or underarm but I was concerned I’d muddle things more. I find it easier to avoid holes with a crochet cast on for some reason I can’t fathom and I like the edge it makes. Now I’ll share a link. You or someone else might find it helpful.

crochet cast on perfected

I still use a knitted cast on in some cases. I don’t have to bother finding a hook to use if it’s not already handy.

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These days I crochet a lot more often than I knit, so crochet hooks are plentiful :grin:
I looped in some spare wool, then crocheted the chain and picked up the loops as stitches on a needle. I’ll follow the method in the link you’ve posted - it looks neater. I’ll have to do it again for one of the fronts.
Thank you for your help :smiley:

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I detest starting chains in crochet and actually use a crochet cast on on a needle then work into the loops to get the crochet started. I saw someone post the idea so I tried it and I liked it. When starting with some gosh awful number of chains I find it so so so much easier. I’m not crazy about using foundation sc or dc or ??? but do like starting with a crochet cast on. It works well for Tunisian crochet too.