I hope I don’t seem extremely daft here! But, I’m not sure whether I count the cast on as a row when I am counting my rows for the gauge square, or the bind off row in that case as well. Also, does anyone have any helpful suggestions for counting rows. It’s a little trickier than I thought. How many folks would recommend a row counter? If so, is there a specific one that you would recommend.
I definitely use row counters. My fave is the Clover mini kacha-kacha. I have several of them. I really like the fact that they lock and that you can put a string through it and wear it around your neck.
Is the long tail cast on the same as the double cast on? I noticed that Amy had long tail, double cast on, and continental cast on listed as aka’s of eachother. Because this is the cast on method that I do use, I want to make sure I understand correctly. Also, out of curiosity, you mentioned that you don’t think that most people use this cast on method. What method do most people use? BTW, thanks for your reply to my post.
Also, you don’t measure over the cast-on, cast-off or side edges when measuring for gauge. Make the swatch about 2" larger both ways and measure the stitches in the middle of the piece only.
The edge stitches don’t give an accurate gauge measurement.
Many people start with a knit row right after a long-tail or double cast on, but it DOES form a row of knit stitches (unlike the single cast-on, which just forms loops over the needle).
That’s why many patterns start with a purl row after a long-tail cast-on.
Proof: Cast on ten long-tail stitches and knit one row. You’ll have a complete, perfect garter ridge, which usually takes two rows to complete. It’s a good way to start a garter-stitch project.
Then try another mini-swatch using purl as the second row.
See the difference.
[COLOR=Teal]SabrinaJL-- Thanks for the information on the mini kacha-kacha. My old non-miniature one doesn’t lock and can’t be hung around your neck. I usually end up accidentally switching the numbers. Or sitting on it. I think I need a new one.[/COLOR]
That’s why many patterns start with a purl row after a long-tail cast-on.
I haven’t seen very many patterns that do this…
I mostly use longtail and begin knitting, and counting, on the 1st row, the row after the cast on. Even though it makes what looks like a purl ridge, it really isn’t and isn’t the same size as one. Start counting with the first actual row you knit - garter or stockinette stitch.
In answer to one of your questions, I do use a row counter, but I don’t put it on my needle. I put it on a small stitch holder and clip it to the beginning of my work, and that way, you can use it with any sized needle.
Longtail creates a caston edge that contains bumps that LOOK like what you get after having knitted one row. For this reason, if it is used for stocking stitch, you might prefer to start with a purl row. This is what people mean when they say longtail caston creates or includes a first knitted row, however, it’s no longer than other castons I think, and you should do your first row after casting on regardless of the method. For counting rows, you might like to write or tick them off on a piece of paper.
If I’m knitting flat (rarely, if ever these days), then I purl a row after long tail cast on, and then start my first row. That way, I don’t get a ridge down at the bottom edge.
A lot of people start with the purl/ws row, probably because it’s mentioned in the instructions for long tail CO in many sources, but it’s not in any patterns that I’ve seen. It may or may not be necessary; each knitter can decide how it looks to them. I like how the bumpy caston looks and it may control the rolling a little on stockinette stitch.
Thanks for the tip on making the swatch 2" bigger. I remember now reading that in the many knitting books I have been consumed in for the last week or so.