How to knit a round NOT knitting in the round

#1

I’m looking for a basic pattern to knit a flat circle. Nothing fancy, just plain knitting but round and flat, not to be confused with knitting in the round. I want to use this as the top of a hat (imagine a top hat).

#2

[COLOR="#330099"]If this were crochet, I could tell you the magic number of increases per round is between 5 to 10 depending on the yarn or thread, hook, and stitch sizes. :think:

I don’t know the magic numbers for knitting in the round for flat circles.

It is still knitting in the round, you just increase at a rate that keeps the piece flat.

I’ll give it a try with a CO of 4,
Round 1: kfb in each stitch. (8 sts)
Round 2: (k1, kfb) repeat around (12 sts)
Round 2: (kfb, k1) repeat around (18 sts)
Round 3: (k2, kfb) repeat around (24 sts)
round 4-?: Work 6 increase evenly around until piece is size desired.

I’m at round 3 and I can’t tell yet if it will lie flat or ripple into waves.

If it tries to doom up, I would work 8 increases each round beginning with round 2.

If it begins to form ripply waves around the edge, then you may want to k around without increases.

:shrug:

I’ll share my results after several more rounds. Crossed Fingers
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#3

Is this actually the top of a hat so that you want to knit the circle from the outside in or could it be from the middle out?

#4

Use a circle/round dishcloth pattern:


http://www.groupepp.com/dishbout/kpatterns/round.html
http://www.groupepp.com/dishbout/kpatterns/doilycloth.html

or the beginnings of a round baby blanket pattern:
http://www.knitlist.com/00gift/round-baby-blanket.htm

If you don’t want the YO lacy holes, just use a different increase method.

#5

Probably middle out, since it will be its own separate piece, later to be joined with the ‘tube’ to form the hat. A round dishcloth pattern,like the other poster suggested, would do but no fancy holes or patterns. I’m just looking for a complete, flat, round knitting pattern.

#6

Good luck and if you can post a pic of what you ended up, that would help too.

#7

I edited my post about the same time you were posting so I wasn’t sure if you noticed this addition. You’ll have to use some sort of increase, probably a M1 would be best to keep the top smooth/flat and hole-less. A kfb would leave a little purl bump.

#8

Use 1 dpn to begin.
Cast on 1 stitch.
Row 1: (k,p,k) all in that one stitch (3 sts result)
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: (kfb) in each stitch (6 sts result)
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: (kfb) in each stitch (12 sts)
Divide the 12 stitches on to 3 dpns (4 stitches each needle) Join for working in the round.
Rnd 1: and all odd numbered rows purl if you want st st and knit if you’d like garter.
Rnd 2: *K1fb, k1; repeat from * (18 sts)
Rnd 4: *K1fb, k1; repeat from * (27 sts)
Row 6: *K1fb, k2; repeat from * (36 sts)
Row 8: *K1fb, k3; repeat from * (45 sts)
Keep following this pattern of adding one more knit between the K1fb on every other row and working the odd numbered rounds even.

This should work. I have used a pattern like this but only worked until I had 54 stitches but I think you could keep going as far as you wanted and it would still work.

#9

From what I’ve read…the magic increase number is 4 every other pattern round, although the center needs to increase quicker than that…

#10

I agree, the cast on should probably be 4 or 8 sts, then joined and increased on the first round to double the st number. Then a plain round, and inc 8 sts every other round.

#11

[COLOR=“Blue”]Does it matter? I suspect it would matter with a pattern stitch.

Eight (8) is such a nice number, but what if your pattern repeats are multiples of 5 or 3 and not 2?

The other question is then what increase to use. It seems the kfb (knit in front and back of loop) is leaving a purl bump on the RS of my swatch.

By the way, I don’t suggest anyone try to magic loop with a Boye fixed circular. :doh: It was all I had in my bag, yesterday. :roll:

:wall: :wall: :wall:
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#12

The cords on the Boye interchangeables are much less flexible than on the fixed circs. The older Boyes had thinner cords and are very flexible though.

#13

Just my two cents worth…I really believe that the rate of increase is determined and has alot to do with needle and yarn sizing and basically guage. It looks like you’re making the circle larger but it is actually a spiral. I’ll have to agree with Suzeeq…4-8 every other round usually creates a nice flat circle.

#14

Saw a small pattern book from Bernat using Softee Chunky yarn. You can see the pictures in it online at Bernat.com. Book is 530184 called “Get Cozy”. It is $3.95 at Michaels (4 afghan patterns).There is a knit. circle. red afghan done in sections and I believe all garter stitch. You might be able to use the center directions for your smaller project. At least you can check it out. It might give you an idea how you might proceed. Jean

#15

Replace the cords on the Boye’s interchangeable needles. You can do this with the plastic refill to a ball point pen, a candle, some glue and lawn trimmer cord. This gives a nice flexible cord of any length you want.

#16

I just have one cord, I snapped the join on another. Since I don’t use this too much, I’m fine. But that’s a good tip for others.

#17

@Kulli are you still around and looking for a flat circle, say in stockinette stitch? Maybe garter stitch? Even in any pattern you choose.

Try this site
https://donatstudios.com/PixelCircleGenerator

Since I play Minecraft I found a circle (or oval) generator that can easily be used to plan the increases needed for each side of a flat knit circle.

Knit a swatch and find your guage for stitches per inch and rows per inch.
Enter your rows per inch multiplied by the diameter you want as the height of the oval. Remove the checkmark that forces a circle then take your sts multiplied by the d diameter as the width of your oval. The result should be a Knitted circle.

Happy knitting circles around the others who are knitting in the round without having to knit in the round.

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