I was wondering whether it’s possible to knit a Fishtail lace panel instead of the garter stitch panel on the Flax Sweater. All the tutorials I have seen are knitted flat with a WS & RS. Is it even possible to knit this lace pattern in the round? If not, does anyone know of an alternative that would work in the round as I would like to replace the garter stitch panel on the Flax Sweater by TinCan Knits with something prettier and a bit more lacey. I like the simplicity of the fishtail lace. I also need something simple because I have only been knitting for 1 year so still quite the beginner.
I don’t want to do cables because it’s in fingering weight and the yarn is Fluffy (Hobbii Metallico Fine) so the cables wouldn’t stand out (I don’t think)!
I have already knit the classic garter stitch panel version in a different color (same yarn) and I like it but I didn’t want to do the same panel again. I thought it would be nice with something lacey as it’s very light weight and I’m wearing it in warm(ish) weather whilst wintering in Spain and Morocco.
Is this the fishtail lace you had in mind? Or something else?
This can be knit in the round, the chart shows the pattern from the right side, every alt row is just knit across (that would be purl on the wrong side if knitting flat)
The repeat is 8 stitches across and you’d need to work out how many stitches you need to replace the garter panel and if you want a repeat of the lace panel or to border it with stockinette or something else.
On the chart just look at the red box, the other stitches are only border stitches.
I’d suggest a swatch (and wash/block and dry), maybe try a sleeve section in the round before starting a full project. It’s possible to swatch for knitting in the round without actually knitting in the round but I think in this case I’d rather a piece of sleeve to try on and have a look at. It’s also a good time to learn how to work the ace pattern and see if I works nicely in your chosen yarn. Sometimes I totally change my mind whilst swatching as yarn and pattern don’t work well together or it’s uncomfortable to work certain stitches in a particular yarn.
It’s a lovely idea to change a panel and a great step in modifying patterns to how you want them.
Yet. You can learn to use charts and might like many of us learn to love them. A pattern with ‘resting rows’ that are all knit or purl is a good place to begin. Keep It Simple, Sweetie.
One thing to be aware of is that charts are worked from the bottom up. As I recall your pattern is worked top down. That means the lace will be upside down working from the chart. Some patterns work well either way, some look … well, upside down. I like to copy a photo of the desired pattern actually worked, put it into something that allows me to flip the image and see if I like it.
My first attempt at charts was a very simple pattern I knew how to do and was part of the current project. That way I could easily tell when I did something wrong. I had to ask here what I was doing wrong. If you wish you can cast on and work the chart for the lace you want as a test, maybe a couple of repeats and try it flat and in the round. And feel free to ask questions rather than spend hours trying work it out on your own if you get stuck.
eta I should add a caveat. Most knitters seem to be able to learn to use charts without too much difficulty. I have read of people who say their brains don’t work that way and never manage to use charts. I’m not sure what the problem there is but I accept what someone says of their own experience.
eta2 Because of the way charts are presented a chart can be worked flat or in the round. The numbering of rows can be confusing especially early on because if all the row numbers are on the right it’s intended to be worked in the round and if they alternate left side-right side the intent is for it to be worked flat. Since the chart presents RS rows only it can be worked flat or in the round. Now to see if I’m repeating what’s already been posted.
You’ll manage with learning how to read the chart, it is a very small one so a good starter.
If you prefer you can write out the rows, and if you get stuck we can help with writing the rows out (I only say that because it’s a small simple one! Don’t give me a massive chart to type ha ha!).
GG makes a good point about it being upside down on a top down sweater. I hadn’t thought about that.
ETA the link I gave has it also written it which is perfect for learning. After reading a chart tutorial or watching a video go and review the lace chart and text on the link and you’ll be able to identify which words go with which box on the grid. Then swatch away.
Thank you so very much, I will do some practice in the coming days.
Some people might struggle with charts due to their learning style.
I am more of a visual/kinesthetic learner so I do well with videos and/or just doing something (like knitting from a chart and learning by just doing it, trial & error) but I can learn all 4 ways, I just learn better/quicker with certain styles. Maybe some people just can’t get along with the read/write style.
Many thanks for the support and offer of help. The next few days shall be busy with me practicing on swatches no doubt. I guess if it’s upside down you would just work it from the bottom and go up then?!?!
That’s what practice is for
If you want the lace to be worked bottom up then work the sleeve bottom up also, which you may be able to do but if your sweater pattern is worked top down this might cause an additional challenge to resolve. Another option might be to work the sleeve flat, top down, with a gap for the garter/lace panel and work a separate lace panel to seam in afterwards.
Another would be to choose a lace pattern which you like upside down.
Me too. Especially since I looked again at the original pattern and saw the garter panel begins right at the top, at the neck, so there’s no room for the option to leave a gap on the sleeve.
When you find a lace pattern you want to use you can always come and ask about translating into the round.
I hVe made this sweater too. I opted to stop the garter panel when I started the sleeves. I worked the sleeves TAAT (2at a time) and did not want the added stress of the garter panel so I just did stockinette.
Lace or colorwork would be a wonderful variation on this sweater. The colorwork would be best knit flat or using a technique for colorwork in the round.
Your sweater with the shortened garter panel is lovely!
This pattern is knit top down, in the round. Some stitches eventually go onto waste yarn for sleeves. If I remember correctly the garter panel was 16 or 18 stitches for my size. I considered doing something different in that panel, at the time I had no experience with anything but knits and purls so decided to keep this first adult size sweater simple. I knit a toddler size first and did the garter panel on that one but decided I wanted something different for mine.
I will make this pattern again and just might try a little bit of stranded colorwork in that area since I will have experience after this sweater workshop I’m participating in.
I’ve knit toddler and adult versions of this sweater using the garter panel and liked both. Markers were the only way I could get the garter panedl set in the beginning though I kept them throughout the sleeves.
I like your approach with the toddler version first. It’s a good way to start out on sweaters or top down designs.
Fnished my modified Flax Light sweater two days ago, knitting pretty much all of it whilst traveling around Morocco in my motorhome.
It turned out really well. I had to adjust the stitch counts, it’s my first modification of an existing pattern. I did no gauge swatch and it’s not been blocked as I’m on the road and do not have my blocking mats. I love how the lace turned out. I did fishtail lace on the sleeves in place of the garter panel and a double fishtail panel down the front. I also replaced the German short rows with Japanese short rows and they are pretty much invisible.
Can’t believe I just flew by the seat of my pants on this, I literally just winged it and it worked. I’m really happy with it. The yarn on the other hand was awful to work with, terrible to frog and it looks tatty after wearing for a while (sweater before this one, same yarn), I used fingering weight Mettalico yarn from Hobbii. It’s time now that I start buying better quality yarn for sweaters. I think I have enough practice under my belt.
What a fabulous result! You’ve worked it and winged it so well. It looks great in you too.
With regards to yarn, when I decided to go for what I thought was something more special (cashmere, merino, silk blend) I got a whole lot of pilling which I hadn’t experienced with the yarns I’d used previously and although the result felt lovely and warm and soft it looked rather exhausted pretty quickly. I don’t know enough about yarns to advise on anything, only that what I thought I was treating myself with didn’t really turn out to be such a treat after all.
One of the yarns I pretty much hated working with (made with recycled plastic bottles) as it felt scratchy, has turned out to be marvelous, it washes so easily, keep its shape, doesn’t pill much at all and became very soft and comfortable. Shows I know nothing about yarns… I swore I’d never knit with it again but I took a gamble on a different brand of recycled acrylic recently and was super happy with it, so soft and light. Maybe each yarn needs a test first, I don’t know.
but I did also look at the page you posted. I’m don’t know how to read charts yet.
If you wish you can cast on and work the chart for the lace you want as a test, maybe a couple of repeats and try it flat and in the round. And feel free to ask questions rather than spend hours trying work it out on your own if you get stuck.
