I’m knitting a hat, and, as usual, lost my row count. And I, until now, have never learned how to count rows properly. Do I count every row (including the one just on top of the cast on)? Do I include in the counting the current stitches I’m working? Thaaanks!
Don’t count the cast on or the loops on the needle.
You need a row counter on the end of your knitting needle or you can do what I do… since I know I won’t remember to count my rows as I knit, I make each row that I finish on a piece of paper. This really works for me.
TEMA:knitting:
Honestly for most hats it doesn’t matter if you’re one or two rows off especially for stockinette. If it matters to the pattern and I count the v’s on the front of the work (not counting the stitch on the needle).
I don’t like row counters because invariably I forget to turn it or someone else picks it up and plays with it. For some things I make marks on a notepad. If I’m keeping track of something like cable turns I use a multiple ring stitch marker.
I agree with Jan, I don’t use a counter, and generally just go by measurement than rows anyway. One or 2 rows won’t make a difference most of the time.
I agree and disagree with some of the reply’s you have received…
I agree with : you do not need to really worry about counting rows for a hat etc. The rows can be off a row or two without worrying.
What I disagree with is the method of counting a row. You do not count the cast on row… so put a safety pin or some sort of marker on the 2nd V… then count up. I use the split markers and I put a marker every 10 rows, much easier than having to count from the start when you do need to count…
Where I disagree with the other comments is they tell you not to count the row on the needles… THAT IS WRONG! That row is part of the completed rows… count that too.
Where I disagree with the other comments is they tell you not to count the row on the needles… THAT IS WRONG! That row is part of the completed rows… count that too.
Neither is technically right or wrong - you just have to do it one way or the other all the time. The loops on the needle aren’t completed until you pull stitches through them.
What I’ve learned about the row on the needle is that it really is a row already. If you are knitting all one color it doesn’t matter that much how you count it, but if you have been knitting with brown, then want to make a stripe of 4 rows of green and then go back to the brown, if you only count the 3 rows below the needle of the green and then think that is 3 rows, so you do one more to get 4 you will end up with 5 because the row on the needle will also be green.
The best way for me to keep track of where I’m at in a pattern is to just make marks on a piece of paper or just make small marks on the pattern that I’m working on by the row that I’ve just completed.
I do not count the cast on, but I do count the loops on the needle. You inevitably do something with them… work on or cast off or anything, but that is the NEXT information. The row is loops and counts.
I hate row counters or check lists. I do forget to count both.
I count the rows just up one column.
Well, I lately made a few patterns that determined counting all the time (socks with cables every 10 rounds) and I was working during a train ride. I did really not want to count or loose track all the time.
So, kind of like the linked stitch markers, I use something I call a [B]rosary.[/B] (just my name, but I will make a blog posting about it soon with photos and everything).
It is just a piece of yarn. Use a good bit in length, Sockyarn or anything will work but I recommend something non-fuzzy and the less splitty it is, the better.
Hold it double and make a knot in it near the top so that you have a loop there that is a bit bigger than the needle you work with.
Then make another knot about the same length further down and so on.
My standart rosary has 10 loops and the the open ends. If a pattern calls for a different repeat you can make it to the number of that repeat.
On row / round 1 I put my needle into the top loop and let it hang there. Preferably a few stitches in, I do not like it behind the edge stitch. In the round: at the beginning of the round, serving as a round marker as well.
Now when you get to it next, pick it up with the other needle, but poke in one hole lower towards the end. (the end is always where the 2 open ends hang!).
Keep going like this and you will know when you did complete a repeat or in standart work a set of 10 with a 10-hole-rosary.
You can do whatever you like at that point… for my socks I just worked my cable round while poking into loop No. 1 again (which I started on the first cable round this way). For the teddy bear I am just working on I need to knit 12 rows of st st, for example, so my brain says: 10 + 2 more. And I just end after getting to hole No. 2 the second time around.
you can also mark every 10th row some way (by tying a piece of yarn into a stitch of this row or something).
Using the rosary (or linked stitch markers) constistenly is not hard. You do not forget it because you are getting to it inevitably. All you have to remember is that you always poke one hole lower.
If you have a hard time remembering which end of the rosary to poke towards, mark that end in more color (tying a second color yarn in or anything).
For me this is the best way to keep track of row / round counts. Just because I am too “fast” in working on and too sure that “I will remember that count” when working on, so that I really will not remember to write down numbers or to turn a row counter. That is just me, though.
But maybe that helps you with chronic loss of count.
Oh: if you work odd pattern structures, where one repeat happens every 8 rows, the other every 10 or anything: just use 2 rosaries. Or more if need be. each keeps count for you better than your brain will.
I found a picture of one of my rosaries in use.
I am counting the cable pattern with a 10-hole-rosary here.
This is from “America’s Knitting Book” - which I have found to be correct about everything I have ever consulted it about … 1. If you must use a device to count your rows, a) do not count the cast-on row b) do not increase the count until a partly worked row is completed c)do not use a needle-mounted counter-string such counters on yarn and fasten the yarn to your work 2. Try not to count your rows, measure instead (pieces to be joined may vary in gauge, and even though they have the same number of worked rows, they may not be the same size) 3. If you have not used a device to count your rows, are working in stockinette, and feel you need to know how many rows have been done, count the “bumps” in vertical columns on the purl side. apart from this “rule”, any method is okay.