I am making my first cardigan and ran into a problem. It seems to be a three panel jacket with sleeves and as I am working on the front left panel I got to some confusing directions.

Started with 41 stitches

As I am shaping the neckline it says :slight_smile:
Cast off at beg of every RS row for the
armhole: 0-3-3-3 sts 0-1-1-1 time, 2 sts
2-1-1-1 times, 1 st 2-2-2-3 times.
Dec for the neck 22-22-25-25 sts in from
the edge as foll:
Next row (RS – dec): patt until 24-24-27-
27 sts rem on LH needle, p2tog, patt to end.
Rep the neck dec on every 6th row 6-6-7-
6 more times, then on foll 4th row
0-0-0-twice. Note, for sizes S & L only
make the final neck dec 21-24 sts in from
the edge (= patt until 23-26 sts rem on LH

I understand the beginning of every row but the 25 stitches from the edge confuse me mathematically because there are only 41 stitches.

As I understand after the decreasing every row.

I am supposed to count 25 stitches from the edge and mark it?

Work the pattern and when there are 27 stitches on my left needle I then p2tog (would it matter if I accidentally cast these two off instead of p2tog?..asking for a friend)

Then work the rest of the row normally…

Then every sixth row I do the same thing?

I’m confused as to what the neck will look like and also how I’m supposed to accomplish this …any help would be deeply appreciated.

Welcome to KH!
What is the name of your pattern?
Sound like you’re working the left front. The neckline is a gradual slope worked with decreases not at the neck edge but 25sts in from the neck edge. That’s just the pattern designer’s detail.
The neckline decreases are worked at the same time as the bind offs at the armhole edge. So for the 4th size you would bind off at the armhole edge 3sts on row 1, 2sts on row 3, decrease one stitch on rows 5,7 and 9.
It may make the future decreases easier if you count 25 sts from the neck edge and place a marker. The decreases would be 2sts before the marker. Working these as a cast off will leave a hole in the knitting. A p2tog is good here or whatever keeps you in pattern.
Yes, repeat the decrease every 6th row so that’s rows 1,7,13,19,25,31 and 37 then on rows 41 and 45. See also the note on the final neck decrease.

Hello, Sorry for the long delay I had to take a knitting break for work.

Here is the pattern though.

It’s the neck and sleeve that always give me trouble. I am currently confused about working the neck and sleeve decrease at the same time 25 st from the edge. Does this require a new maybe cabling needle? I’m Also furiously watching YouTube so if there is a video link that might save your precious time feel free.

I greatly Appreciate you guys.

P.s thank you so much!!

Good to see you’re back to knitting.

The line of decreases for the neck are at the boundary between the stockinette stitch and the diamond cable (see the pattern photo). You can see that as they are worked the neckline slants to the side. It might be better called something else rather than neck decreases but that’s effectively what’s happening.
The decreases at the armhole and neck won’t require a new cabling needle. The neck decreases allow the cable to slant along with the shaping and the armhole decreases shouldn’t interfere with the diamond cable. It may help to make a chart for the row numbers, neck decreases and armhole decreases. Then you can check off the rows as you work them.

You’re making the 3rd size? Decrease at the armhole edge on rows 1,3,5 and 7. The decrease is 3sts on row 1, 2sts on row 3, 1 stitch on rows 5 and 7.
The decreases at the neck edge are on rows 1, 7,13,19,25,31,37 and 43.

Would you please edit your post to remove the pattern instructions? We can’t post large portions of patterns due to designer copyright. You can use the pencil icon in the lower right of the Reply box. I was really just asking for the pattern name in order to have a photo of the sweater.

I have another question…

If someone wanted to take a crossstitch or needlepoint pattern and use it to add an image to a garment how would they.?

I feel like a sticker would be heavy depending on the size, but double stitching would distort the pattern maybe?

Note: I don’t expect you to give me an entire lesson, I just found so little information about this online though it seems possible. Literally any additional information towards it’s possibility or a technique would be really helpful.

Duplicate stitch works quite well for a simple addition. Of course the same would apply to needlepoint or cross stitch. You’re using the stitches, usually knit sts as a grid to add the design.
I’ve sewed a badge onto a knit jacket and that works best if the jacket is a worsted or bulkier weight yarn.

I chose a more complex pattern…:sweat_smile: If my questions frustrate you feel free to lmk.

I was wondering if you could use a water soluble Aida to grid the pattern then soak it and just have the stitches bound to the piece.

It seems like only double color knitting can produce a pattern with intricate and bold detail?

My goal is to put a stags profile on the back of the jacket without knitting it in.

The problem is probably getting the resolution that you want on a knit fabric that may be at a larger number of sts per inch. That said, I’ve never tried a more intricate design that doesn’t use the knit grid already present. This may well work out beautifully but the best thing may be to try it out on a swatch to see if you get the pattern you have in mind. You’re breaking new ground here!

Hello, I am finally finishing this piece (it’s a loose term rn with as many times as I’ve had to pull stiches back lol)

This direction I think is just confusing me and the infinite wisdom of this community would be so appreciated.

"Join the half collars with a chain

On the wrong side of work over 13 stitches at the increase edge then on the Rs over the remaining 24 st using back stitch graft the neckband to the neck then sew the border obtained along the front edges and around the back neck"

I can’t really visualize what this looks like at all…it sounds simple but it’s like learning math in school…by the time I try it I’m confused again. :sob:

I’m making a bit of a guess here. It seems that you have two pieces of the collar which should join at the back of the neck. You could use a 3-needle bind off to join the two pieces. The pattern seems to be recommending how to use the bind off so that the seam is hidden. At the edge nearest the body, work the join so that the seam is to the outside over the first 13 stitches. This will leave a clean seam at the back of the neck. Then reverse the seam so that the bump is to the inside and hidden from the RS. When you do this the bump or seam will be under the turn of the collar.
Once you’ve joined the two sides of the collar, seam the collar to the sweater using back stitch.

The collar directions are similar to the way you would seam a turned back sleeve cuff.

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