Help: how do I save my oslo hat?

I tried to be fancy with my oslo hat. I didn’t have enough of a single color sock yarn to knit the hat, but i knew it was double brimmed, so part of it would be folded up. I thought that I could knit the portion that gets folded over (not seen) in a different color. However, it seems that I didn’t realize which side of the work would be the final RS.

The pattern has you knit for x inches, then connect the next row with the cast on row, then knit some rows, then turn the work and knit from the “WS”. This video shows the magic.

I split the portion that you knit before connecting the next row with the cast on row, in two colors. I knit the first half in my desired color, then the second half in my undesired/want to hide color.

In the below photo you can see me folding the desired fuscia color on top of the peach color, also shown is the row where I attached the cast-on row and knit more stockinette before the instructed turn (haven’t turned yet).

Because we have to turn the work, it seems though that we are flipping from the other side - in other words, the undesired color will be the brim

Is there anything I could do to avoid the german short row in the pattern? What purpose does it serve before the decreases?

I already frogged this project once before so I’m trying to save myself the work of soaking, drying and winding the yarn and starting over again :sweat_smile:

Beautiful colors for the hat.
As I understand it, the hat should start with the hidden color (peach) and halfway along the brim switch to the outside or public color (fuschia). Rather than start again, what if you skip the short row turn and continue working the hat as shown here?

The purpose of the short row turn is to help with the fold but I’ve seen double brim hats that don’t have this turn. It seems to me that the sock yarn (even doubled) should be pliable enough that this will turn up for the brim. (Worst case you might tack the brim in a couple of places to make the fold.)

If the purl round is so necessary for the turned up brim an alternative might be to purl a couple of rounds right where your current live sts are and then revert to knit rounds. Maybe worth a try on a swatch just to see that it doesn’t create a bulge.

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Thank you for the help!

The purpose of the short row turn is to help with the fold but I’ve seen double brim hats that don’t have this turn. It seems to me that the sock yarn (even doubled) should be pliable enough that this will turn up for the brim. (Worst case you might tack the brim in a couple of places to make the fold.)

Oh how does it help the fold - does it help the fold to stay up/not fall down?

If the purl round is so necessary for the turned up brim an alternative might be to purl a couple of rounds right where your current live sts are and then revert to knit rounds. Maybe worth a try on a swatch just to see that it doesn’t create a bulge.

So in this case, don’t do a turn, just purl some rows and then go back to stockinette?

That could be a reason, providing some traction for the brim to stay up but I’m not sure. I’ve not seen this used before.
Yes, that’s the idea. Don’t make the turn, just add in the purl rounds then go back to stockinette.

I’m knitting a hat with this construction at the moment! (Crown shy by Ysolda).
She says that the reason for the turn is so that the purl line that you get after joining the brim (by knitting two stitches together) is hidden in the fold of the brim. If it’s on the inside of the hat, it might show if you need to fold the brim up more than usual.
So I think you can just omit the turn and carry on!
I’m actually now making a second Crown Shy but am working the crown from a provisional cast on in case I run out of yarn!! :rofl::rofl: I’ll work the brim top down and graft to the body when I’m near the end of the yarn!!

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It’s interesting that the Crown Shy pattern continues with hidden ribbing after the join for several rounds to keep the hat snug.
I’m not sure I yet understand the reason for working an inch or so of purl sts (which will be hidden by the upturned brim) in the Oslo hat.

Ah, I’m not familiar with the Oslo hat instructions. I’d assumed that it was just one turn after joining the brim into a double brim, and then continuing the pattern inside out.
Presumably the Oslo turns more than once then?

I love Ysolda’s patterns! They are so clever. She hides ribbing inside some of her mitten cuffs too!

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I’ve just looked at the video - I see what you mean! I can’t see why you’d need all that reverse stocking stitch?
I’d expect that any tendency to curl would be countered firstly by the folded hem, and secondly, by the fact that most hats have negative ease and will be stretched!

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I’ve had a look at the Ravelry comments and this video from the designer might explain!!
It appears that the original pattern design was for a sewn brim. By having a length of reverse stocking stitch on the front side, it means that you’ll still see stocking stitch when the brim is folded as this hat folds at the body of the hat. This gives a three layer brim.
In contrast, the crown shy folds mid brim gining a four layer brim!!

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