What is the name of your pattern and designer?
Work across the next 49sts and place them on a holder or waste yarn. You’ll get to them later. Your working yarn strand will be at the end of the held sts ready to work the next live sts on the left needle. Now work across the next 54sts, the sts following those on hold.
I’m trying something new with the fair isle traditional aspect!
The other bit of confusing instruction is that following the end of the round above it says:
"Break Yarn.
With WS facing, rejoin yarn to neck edge of left front"
But the previous round has a completion at the back. I’m unsure how to rejoin the yarn at neck edge when the needles have finished the previous round at the back?
Hello
It may make more sense on your needles if you put any “on hold” stitches onto a spare cable or onto waste yarn (I use an interchangable cable with a smaller size needle tip to slip the stitches on, then switch the needle to a cable stopper each end, or I use embroidery thread placing a slip knot each end and joining the slip knots with a removable marker or safety pin to ensure the stitches can’t slip off).
You previously worked
54, 49, 54 stitches for the front.
The first 54 have been put on hold, these are the left front The next 49 were put on hold, these are the front neck stitches. The final 54 sts have been worked and are the front right.
When you break yarn leave 10 cm tail to weave in later.
Now find the 54 sts belonging to the left front (left as you wear it) and begin on the wrong side of the fabric, the purl side. Rejoin the yarn by keeping a 10cm tail secured against your needle and just go into that first stitch, work it. Secure the tail for a few stitches then drop it. When you come back on the right side row those couple of stitches may be a little loose, snug them up by pulling on the tail bit and work the stitches. They will become more secure as you work and can be slightly resized when you weave in the tail later.
You will be working the mirror of the right neck and shoulder which you’ve just worked.
I think I understand… The pattern doesn’t say anything about another set of needles at this point and so am I meant to bunch the stitches tight onto the cable so I can use the live needles (currently at the end of the row at the back) to use them to cast on the WS rejoin at neck edge of Left front??
Your working yarn is at the red dot, having just completed the round. Cut it as Creations noted and reattach it at the yellow dot, the left front neck edge. You’ll have the WS facing for the next round or whatever the instructions are.
This is done so that you won’t alter the chart rows but move the beginning of round to the left front neck edge.
It’s difficult to write this post because I’m so distracted by your superb knitting and color choice. Magnificent!
With the RS facing you can slip the left front sts to the needle that is held in the right hand. The working yarn is back there at the end of round marker. Cut the working yarn leaving a tail to weave in later. Now turn the knitting to the WS as you would at the end of a row. Attach the new end of yarn coming from the skein at the left front neck. Again leave a yarn tail to weave in later.
Here’s a video for the join of new yarn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zuBWpNeQNc
You’re going to be working back and forth rather than in the round at this point.
Ahhhhhhhh penny drops of course - just slip the stitches over to the new beginning of round with the new yarn! Seems so simple now you’ve explained it! Thanks so much!!
Glad to see the update that the penny dropped about where the stitches are.
This is why I said sometimes it’s easier to understand the stitches if they are on a holder or scrap yarn. Stitches in scrap yarn are almost automatically remounted into a needle in the way we need them to be to work the next instruction whereas stitches left jn th working needles, but not being worked, can end up looking like they are inaccessible.
Your knitting looks lovely and it is a good idea to post a pic because it is helpful for those offering help. It’s almost immediately obvious why you were struggling to access the stitches when a pic of your work is seen.
I will say too, not all patterns say to move the stitches onto hold but stitches which are not being worked can get in the way and it may be preferable sometimes to use a strand of yarn or a large holder rather than have the stitches waiting on the needle.
I have some interchangeable knit pro circulars but not on the required size so I decided to buy a circular needle with cable attached just for this project…
Maybe had they been interchangeable, I would have been able to put toppers on the ends and centre the stitches on the cable to see what to do. But not having an instruction like “slip the stitches to get to the front left neck edge to then rejoin the yarn” had me beat!
Designers and their editors all have different ways of stating directions. Sometimes it’s like working out a puzzle to figure out exactly what they are trying to say. The more patterns you work, the easier this becomes and yet there are still stumpers out there.