Elsebeth Lavold Viking Knits

#1

Hi, all. I am knitting my first Lavold sweater for my grandson’s birthday and I am beyond stuck. I have attached my recreation of a section of the chart for her pattern Torgeir, and wonder…

On row 1, where exactly are the decreases? Are stiches 4 & 5 knit together or are stitches 3 & 4 knit together? Continuing down the row, is the SSK performed on stitches 14 & 15 or 15 & 16?

On row 5, how does she accomplish two lifted increases over the no stitch area? The same happens on row 7.

I am stumped beyond belief. I’d rather follow this in text instrux than use her chart, and I have made many sweaters very happily using charts. I just find her designs quite confusing to follow using her charts.

If anyone can help I would be so appreciative!!!

#2

I found this on her errata page:

"Torgeir
Symbols and explanations for the 3/3 Right Cable is missing in the symbols list. Work as for 2/2 Right Cable, working 3 sts wherever it says 2.

Torgeir children’s sizes Sleeves p. 53:
Foundation row: Work 14 (14) 18 (18) sts in st st, 2 sts in rev st st, work 6 st cable from chart, 2 sts in rev st st, 14 (14) 18 (18) sts in st st,"

Does that help at all?

#3

Hi. Thanks so much for trying! I knew about the errata for this pattern but the chart section I need help with does not have associated errata. I’ve searched for days! About ready to throw in the towel on this one and move on. Drives me slightly batty because I am so driven to finish what I start, and, I just love Lavold’s designs (but her directions/charts, not so much).

Thanks again!

#4

The good thing about charts is you do them exactly as you see them. Did you mark the yellow on the pattern? I’m thinking you may have and are thinking that you need to use that box after the box with the slash in it as part of the k2tog or SSK. You don’t. Knit one for each box with nothing in it and when you come to the box with the slash in it do a K2tog or SSK and then right after it you have a box with no mark so you knit that one.

I’m having a little trouble here because I can’t see the chart anymore while I am using the box here to reply. :eyes:

Just do each thing you see. The decrease is just represented in the one box, and yes, it uses 2 sts but not on the chart, just do the decrease when you come to it.

I will go back and look at the chart again and write out how you do a few rows, but these are general instructions. This is worked flat so you have to read the even numbered rows from left to right. The RS rows are worked from left to right. The chart shows the piece of fabric from the RS so to get the right stitches you must work the return rows in the opposite stitch to what it shows. For the empty boxes you purl and the dots you knit.

On that issue about the lifted increase twice in a row. You just do it in the same place as the last one. I know it seems impossible but it isn’t. Just make it go in there. :lol: Lift that strand 2 times. It’s tight but it will work.

#5

You begin with 14 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K3, K2tog, K1, RLI, P2, LLI, K1, SSK, K3.
Row 2: P5, K4, P5.
Row 3: K2, K2tog, K1, RLI, P4, LLI, K1, SSK, K2.
Row 4: P4, K6, P4.
Row 5: K1, K2tog, K1, RLI, P3, LLI, RLI, P3, LLI, K1, SSK, K1.
Row 6: P3, K4, P2, K4, P3.
Row 7: K2tog, K1, RLI, P4, K1, LLI, RLI, K1, P4, LLI, K1, SSK.
Row 8: P2, K5, P4, K5, P2. (18sts)

Okay, the whole chart. :wink:

I think I got all my rights and lefts in the correct places. :lol:

You can do this, don’t give up. ArtLady (another gal on here) has done a lot of Lavold patterns and she is always very willing to help.

#6

An Epiphany! OK. Your text instrux are awesome. I am all set to knit the first four rows, which I’ll do tonight. When I get to row five I may be stuck again with the adjacent lifted increases over no stiches, LOL. Maybe it will look different to me when I get there and it won’t be so intimidating. Onward, with great help. Thank you so much.

This site is wonderful. I am really going to enjoy it here.

#7

Maybe this will help - each box on a chart represents an action, not a stitch. A yo takes up a box, but there’s no stitch there when you start the row. A dec uses 2 or 3 sts, but is shown as only one box.

The lifted increases will actually be done in the new sts you made on previous rows. There are ‘no stitch’ boxes, to keep the chart square and make room for the new stitches.

#8

There are a couple of different increases that are called “lifted” increases. I just did a search and it brought up what Amy does on this site as a M1 and directs you to that for a lifted increase. This is the one where you lift the strand between the stitches either in the front or back and knit it into the opposite side from where you picked it up. This is actually the one I was thinking of when I said to squeeze both increases in there, thinking you would be picking up the same strand twice. That works, but may not be what you are supposed to do.

I looked at three others and I’m sure two of those was the same, but I’m not sure about the other it brought up. The same as each other, not the same as the one I mentioned above.

What I’m saying is be sure to find out what Elsebeth Lavold has in mind for her lifted increase. I’m sure she tells you somewhere in the book.

#9

The KRL/KLL are also called lifted increases and since the base of each is done on a different base stitch, that may work.

#10

Thanks Meri and Sue. The hint about the chart being actions and not stitches was very helpful. I’ve used charts before but I began to second guess myself because of the lifted increases and I started to count from the center purl stitches out to each end of the row instead of counting from the first stitch of each row. The no stitch area, which I hadn’t seen before, was confusing. I think if I can do this I can knit anything, LOL. :knitting:

I have looked everywhere in Lavold’s book to determine how she is thinking about those lifted increases, but she doesn’t specify.

I didn’t get a chance to knit last night but I’m going to tackle this tonight and let you know how I make out.

Thanks again!!