Decreasing

Hello, I’ve returned (as everyone was so helpful b4) as after a few weeks plain sailing I’ve come to this instruction in a pattern (photo attached) which has me stumped! I can see it’s not just a simple decrease at the end of each row and that I somehow need to reduce by 3 stiches by I really can’t see how to do this. Any help much appreciated, thanks

1 Like

Your knitting looks so nice and even. This sweater is going to be fun to see finished.
Call the next row, row 1. Decrease one stitch at the armhole edge on row 1 and one stitch at the neck edge on rows 1 & 2.
So you’ll decrease at both the armhole and the neck edge on row 1 and then just at the neck edge on row 2.

Thanks so much, really easy when explained like this…I seem to have some sort of word blindness with patterns at times! I’ll send a photo when finished, hopefully no more hold ups!

1 Like

On the home straight now but having finished the neckband I’m a bit mystified as to why it looks like stocking stitch even though I only knitted four rows of garter stitch as per the pattern instructions. I quite thought it would match the sleeve edges and hem! (also garter stitch). Probably an obvious explanation but it would be great if you could please explain why this is. Many thanks

1 Like

Are you knitting the neckband in the round? When you knit every row in the round, you get stockinette because the RS (right side) is always facing you. (If you knit every row back and forth, you get garter stitch as you already have seen.)
If you want garter stitch in the round you have to knit one round, purl one round. This will also keep the neckband from curling although that style of neckband is often used to a very nice effect.
The sweater and neckband look great!

1 Like

Thanks, it’s not perfect but I’m quite pleased with it. Yes, I’m knitting in the round as instructed so it must be right. I thought I should ask though as the picture on the pattern seems to show the neckband matching the hem and sleeves although it’s not clear. Mystery solved as to why I’m getting stockinette stick knitting in the round…Many thanks.

1 Like

After writing the above I checked the pattern and it does specify 4 rows of garter stitch for the neckband (I forgot, as before I knew you get stockinette knitting in the round I assumed I was knitting garter stitch). It says to start by picking up stitches on the left sleeve and so on but in order to get to the back section you definitely need a circular needle (I had to buy one as it wasn’t listed under materials) BUT it seems you can’t knit garter stitch in the round…help!

Sure you can. Pick up the sts as given in the pattern and place a marker for the beginning of round. Purl the next round and then knit the following round. Keep alternating, one purl round, one knit round and you will have garter stitch.

1 Like

Oh I see…easy when you know how! Am learning a lot today, video was very helpful. Thanks

1 Like

Glad you’ve been able to get to grips with the garter stitch, there’s not much to rework if you decide to do it. Your sweater looks lovely. The neckband you have currently, in stocking stitch, will roll outwards and show the purl bump side of the fabric. It isn’t obvious when still kn the needles but much more so after casting off. You might like it many tops are made like that as the intended design.

I wanted to say, if the pattern did not list a circular needle for the neckband it may be that you have misread the neckband instruction. It may have said to join ONE shoulder seam and then to pick up stitches for the neckband. This way it can be knit back and forth on straight needles (and garter would be knit every row). When the neckband is finished the second shoulder and neck band are seamed.

If you joined BOTH shoulders you will have ended up needing to knit in the round which led to purchasing a circular needle and the garter confusion.

Shoulder seaming and neck bands can be done both ways (flat and seamed later or seamed firet and finished in the round) and some people would choose their favourite way rather than following a pattern anyway.

You have learned a lot making this and each pattern and project you will learn more. Everything I make has a new challenge and I like that.

Hello again, you are completely right the pattern DID say join one shoulder seam and then pick up the stitches. I would have much preferred to knit to and fro on straight needles (I found the circular ones hard to use but then again I bought the cheapest I could find and they weren’t really up to the job). Initially I did try knitting along the neckline with straight needles which would have been fine if I’d started at the back but starting further along on the shoulder seam meant that I couldn’t get round to the back section without circular needles, but obviously there is a way. I thought I’d attach a photo of the finished jumper which turned out ok in the end. Just a bit of snagging which you may also be able to help with, firstly no matter how tight the tension the stitches to the right of the star pattern didn’t look too neat (photo attached), although after blocking the appearance improved. Secondly the cast off edges at the top section of the front are quite unsightly (photo also attached), although this is on the inside of the jumper. If I picked up the neckband stitches at the edge of these cast off edges they showed on the r/s so couldn’t find anyway round this.

1 Like

That turned out beautifully.
We can often see every mistake in a finished project where everyone else sees a lovely handmade sweater. Well done!

(I always knit neckbands with small circular needles. I don’t like a seam running up the band when you leave one of the shoulders open.)

It looks great!

I wouldn’t worry about how the neck band looks on the inside, the most important thing with a neck band is that none of it is too tight. Looser bind offs which are a touch messy on the inside are far more comfortable than tight bind off edges with no stretch, or worse still that a head cannot fit through.

I am not so good at small circular knitting. I’m more comfortable with my circulars now than I used to be but it takes a bit of getting used to. My circulars have quite a long needle part which makes small pieces too difficult. It’s possibly been the same experience for you.

Your knitting looks neat. I used some tips (which often stay in my head just long enough to use on my current project and I then immediately forget, even jotting notes doesn’t seem to help me remember all the great tips i have had here and from tutorials) on tightening a particular side of a stitch pattern, rather than just pulling tightly there are some little changes which can be employed and often it depends on the pattern and the yarn being used too.
The stitches on the right of the star which are just slightly larger (and which no one will notice but you… and us because you’ve pointed it out) are likely caused by the change from knit to purl in that direction which does just make a slightly bigger stitch. One tip is to work the knit, work one purl, then take the yarn to the back to tighten a little, then return it to the front to continue purling. I now do this on each first purl and I’m surprised how much neater I find it.
Another option is to use a tapestry needle to gently tug the extra yarn in that knit stitch and gradually draw the yarn across the row distributing it across those stitches which are a bit smaller further along. It’s a bit fussy but I find it quite relaxing re tensioning certain parts of my knits.
If you wanted to do this I suggest watching a video first as you need to follow the travel of the yarn to draw it in the right place.
Honestly though you don’t need to. The top is great.

This is all incredibly helpful, thank you so much. I am putting notes on the pattern which I hope will be useful if I knit it again but it is brilliant to be able to come here for expert advice…(I’m also going to be investing in some decent circular knitting needles!).

2 Likes