Decreasing a double moss(seed) stitch beanie

How-to Questions
1

I’ve read posts about decreasing single moss and seed stitch patterns but nothing about double moss stitches. I’m currently knitting a beanie with 80 stitches.
R1 K2, P2
R2 K2, P2
R3 P2, K2
R4 P2, K2

This is the pattern I’ve been following but now I want to start decreasing the hat to close it up. Is there a method to this so that the pattern doesn’t get messed up?

2

I would use stitch markers, possibly every 16 stitches. Make the decreases on either side of the stitch markers, maintaining the double moss stitch pattern between the stitch markers.

I like to do the math ahead of time, writing it down, just to keep track of what I’m doing, it hurts my head :shock: to try and keep track of it otherwise.

Are you knitting this flat or in the round?

HTH

3

Hi and welcome!
Decreases will interrupt the pattern but the decreases themselves form a pretty line that swirls up the crown of the beanie. I would start by k2 together on the k2 sts. You could do this 8 times every 10sts (work 8sts, k2tog or p2tog). On the next decrease row or round, work the single decrease stitch together with the next st and continue by gradually incorporating the pattern sts into the decreases.

4

Thank you so much, sorry I forgot to mention that I’m knitting in the round. Lol so after do one decrease round do I continue the next row following the original pattern? For example:

Row 1 decrease (work 8sts k2 tog)
row 2 follow origninal moss stitch without decrease?
row 3 decrease (do I decrease working 6 stitches because the moss stitch works in groups of 2?)

Ive only ever decreased in stockinette stitch where you decrease by 1s

5

Knit the following round without decreases but you won’t be able to follow the original pattern completely. Where you have k2tog, you’ll continue with a k1 or p1 according to the round you’re on.
On the next dec round, you could work the adjoining 2 purl sts together but it might be neater to continue the decreases right at the line of the k2tog from the first decrease round. It’s a matter of personal preference. On this second round you would work 7sts, then work 2 tog.