Dazed and confused with this pattern instruction

#1

I am trying follow instructions that seem to leave some details out. The pattern works in rounds starting by shaping the neck. I finished the first few rounds and some short rows, but can’t get the next steps. I hope someone can help to fill in some details.

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The instructions start simple enough

With smaller needles, using long tail method, CO sts. Join in the round being careful not to twist. PMM for BOR (center back).

Switch to larger needles.

INCREASE RND 1: *k3, M1L; rep from * to end of rnd 46 sts increased, sts.

Start shaping neck using short rows (NOTE: I used the YO Short Row method; you can either use the same method or German Short Rows, or any other method you prefer):

The instructions call for 16 shorts rows. After the last short row is when instructions get confusing for me

(Last short row) SR 16: YO, p to MM, SLMM, p23 (22, 21, 24, 27, 23, 26), turn.

Now you continue working in the round: (fine easy)

Next RND: YO, k to MM, SLMM, work as follows: (fine easy)

YO as k2tog with the next st on the right shoulder (huh?) where is the right shoulder? How do I get from the middle of the neck to the right shoulder? What does it mean the next stitch is on right shoulder? Then the instructions say YO as ssk with the previous st on the left shoulder. The same questions here but with left shoulder and SSL.

I hope someone can help.

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#2

Hello
The shoulder in a sweater refers not just to the outer most part of the shoulder but all of the section that runs from neck to shoulder/arm, the transition between front and back, where straps would be on a vest. The shoulder section is going to be several cm before it turns into sleeve.

Assuming your pattern is stocking stitch (knit in the RS, purl on the WS), on the last short row (WS) you made a YO on the left shoulder and purled across past the middle marker and over to the right shoulder (23 to 26 stitches beyond the centre neck depending in the size you’re making).
Then you turned (RS facing) and made a YO on the right shoulder (right as you would wear the sweater) and started knitting.
You are now working in the round so just work all the way around until you get back to this YO on the right shoulder and work the YO and the next stitch as a k2tog.
Then continue working across the back neck to the left shoulder and stop 1 stitch before the YO, work the stitch and the YO as SSK.

It sounds like a little detail across the shoulder. You may be able to see it in a photo of the finished piece. What is the pattern name?

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#3

Hi, thank you for the explanations. Sorry for being so dense. I have one more question. When I start working in round do I knit all of it in YO K2tog to the left shoulder and then all stitches from there in YO SSK, until I reach the starting point of the round? I am asking because the instructions don’t say repeat of YO k2tog and YO SSK. thank you again for your help.

#4

No need to be sorry for asking questions. Just ask, everyone is welcome to ask questions - I always do!
And you are not dense.

No, I do not think that you are to work yo, k2tog all the way around. The pattern instruction is not YO k2tog but rather you have done a YO in the previous row/round and when you reach it again (in the round) work it as a k2tog or ssk depending which shoulder you are on (these are basically the same type of decrease but one leans left the other right to mirror the slant on the project).
Without more of the pattern I can’t say for certain what stitches you are doing but from what you have posted it looks like plain knit.

If you are still not sure do ask again. Sometimes it takes a different person to say it in a way you can understand as we all say things differently.

It may help to see the photo of the pattern, is there a name or pattern number and designer you can give us?

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#5

You can do this. You’re not dense, it is confusing. Ask your questions! That’s what this site is for. Having a link to the pattern would be helpful even if it’s paid since seeing a picture can be useful. Have you done a sweater of this type before? It seems to be assumed that the knitter is familiar with the construction and has a good idea of what to do.

Unless you’re doing lace I agree with @Creations that you’re not doing decreases and yo’s all around.

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#6

Hi,

Thank you for all your help.

The pictures are fuzzy but here they are. I copied the instructions as well. I am following the the second value inside the parentheses

With smaller needles, using long tail method, CO 114 (126, 138, 144, 150, 153, 156) sts. Join in the round being careful not to twist. PMM for BOR (center back).

Switch to larger needles.
INCREASE RND 1: *k3, M1L; rep from * to end of rnd (38 (42, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54) sts increased, 152 (168, 184, 192, 200, 208, 216) sts).

Start shaping neck using short rows (NOTE: I used the YO Short Row method; you can either use the same method or German Short Rows, or any other method you prefer):
SR 1 (RS): k58 (64, 70, 73, 76, 79, 82), turn.
SR 2 (WS): YO, p to MM, SLMM, p58 (64, 70, 73, 76, 79, 82), turn. SR 3: YO, k to MM, SLMM, k53 (58, 63, 66, 69, 71, 74), turn.
SR 4: YO, p to MM, SLMM, p53 (58, 63, 66, 69, 71, 74), turn.
SR 5: YO, k to MM, SLMM, k48 (52, 56, 59, 62, 63, 66), turn.
SR 6: YO, p to MM, SLMM, p48 (52, 56, 59, 62, 63, 66), turn.
SR 7: YO, k to MM, SLMM, k43 (46, 49, 52, 55, 55, 58), turn.
SR 8: YO, p to MM, SLMM, p43 (46, 49, 52, 55, 55, 58), turn.
SR 9: YO, k to MM, SLMM, k38 (40, 42, 45, 48, 47, 50), turn.
SR 10: YO, p to MM, SLMM, p38 (40, 42, 45, 48, 47, 50), turn.
SR 11: YO, k to MM, SLMM, k33 (34, 35, 38, 41, 39, 42), turn.
SR 12: YO, p to MM, SLMM, p33 (34, 35, 38, 41, 39, 42), turn.
SR 13: YO, k to MM, SLMM, k28 (28, 28, 31, 34, 31, 34), turn.
SR 14: YO, p to MM, SLMM, p28 (28, 28, 31, 34, 31, 34), turn.
SR 15: YO, k to MM, SLMM, k23 (22, 21, 24, 27, 23, 26), turn.
SR 16: YO, p to MM, SLMM, p23 (22, 21, 24, 27, 23, 26), turn.
Now you continue working in the round:
Next RND: YO, k to MM, SLMM, work as follows:
YO as k2tog with the next st on the right shoulder and YO as ssk with the previous st on the left shoulder.
Work 2 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) RNDs in St st.
INCREASE RND 2: k2, M1L, *k4, M1L; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2 (38 (42, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54) sts increased, 190 (210, 230, 240, 250, 260, 270) sts).
Work 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) RNDs in St st.
INCREASE RND 3: *k5, M1L; rep from * to end of RND (38 (42, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54) sts increased, 228 (252, 276, 288, 300, 312, 324) sts).
Work 4 (4, 8, 10, 10, 10, 11) RNDs in St st.

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#7

Yes you are working in stocking stitch as I had anticipated. It’s good to check though.
Stocking stitch is ‘plain knitting’ if you like, no fancy cables or lace.
Now we see a photo it is clear the neck, shoulders and most of the sweater are stocking stitch and your pattern instructions confirm this too ‘st st’ is stocking stitch. There is a band of lace at the upper torso and arm, you will get to that later.

For now then st st, knit on the right side (the side of the fabric we see) and purl on the wrong side (the side hidden from view, the inside of the sweater).
When working in rows back and forth st st is knit on RS and purl on WS. When working in the round it is knit every round as you never turn the work. The back of a knit stitch is naturally a purl. The back of a purl stitch is naturally a knit.

The short rows had a YO at the turns to help close a little gap that would show otherwise, it’s just an extra bit of yarn that joins the stitches of the short rows which would not be linked together otherwise.

So…
After the short rows you are working in the round, knitting every stitch until you get to one of the YO which you will see on your left needle as you approach it. When you get to one work the ssk or k2tog as described. Otherwise you are working plain knit.

Your pattern says work 2 (3,4 4 4 4 4) rounds.
If you’re making the second size in parenthesis this is 4 rounds.

Then an increase round.
Then work 6 rounds in st st
Then an increase round
Then 8 rounds st st.

Is this okay?
Are you able to continue?

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#8

In the short rows I didn’t use YO, I used wrap and turn. Does this mean that as I am doing the row I should YO and K2tog or YO SSL when I reach the wrap?

Thank you again, I am grateful for your help. I am looking forward to continuing with this knitting advertising this weekend.

#9

If you didn’t use the YO short rows method as given in the pattern you have no YO with which to k2tog or ssk. You can’t put in yarn overs now because they are hot supposed to be in the same row/round as the k2tog, the k2tog is a waynto treat the YO that was don’t on an earlier row. Making yarn overs now, on this round, will produce holes, or eyelets which isn’t the aim.

You will instead treat your wrap and turn the way you usually would because you have substituted a different method of short rows which is fine, knitters often substitute their favorite method for one in a pattern.
What do you usually do with your wrap and turn?
Do you usually leave the wrap in place and just knit across? If so then do this.
Do you usually lift the wrap as you reach it and remount it onto the left needle to work as a k2tog or ssk? If so then do this.

If you have never done a wrap and turn and this is your first time you might want to look at some tutorial videos to see how to treat it and choose a method you like the look of. You could try them out on a small swatch before going ahead on your sweater.

I have not done a wrap and turn in the round I would imagine you would lift it to remount on the left needle and then work it as a ssk or k2tog depending which shoulder you are on.
As this is not the given pattern (which is fine) and you are doing something I’ve never done before I will ask @GrumpyGramma or @salmonmac to offer some advice on this.

I’m sure you can work this out, there is plenty of help here.
Just don’t do a round of yo k2tog as you will get holes.

#10

Creations is correct, the YO only refers to short rows using the yarn over short row method. Since you’ve used wrap & turn, don’t work any extra yarn overs here. Wrap & turn is a perfectly fine substitute for yarn over short rows if you prefer.
Pick up the wraps on the knit round using k2tog in the area of the right shoulder and ssk (or k2tog through the back loop) in the area of the left shoulder. Here’s a show motion video for picking up the knit side wraps (see especially 4:30min for the pick up).

It’s a really stunning sweater and looks like a fun lace pattern.

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#11

Yes I would love to know what the pattern is. It is really a looker

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#12

Thank you for your help salmonmac

#13

Wow excellent, thank you. This totally answers my questions. I kept wondering why that row was different. It’s because of YO. I think it’s purpose is to hide the YO. Thank you for your patience and answering my question :clap::pray::blush:

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#14

Thank you :pray:

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#15

I downloaded it from lovecraft.com https://downloads.lovecrafts.com/pdf/bcb404ad97a32c9834b9135e1c1c0e65ddc0bb33.pdf?Expires=1655523034&Signature=HcyhY~VvqLAeEIXmLhggSX0iGu4ttV9Zd0btT7z7VvAusRSwyr6BwX1gQ6QVZOlA0GtUc-4dCD9ZnsaGwubOShNGfo~VzmM4NcAYMV3iS-63pZmDODaP7eppccp0mLe9SzJzSmanXu0DGWUZRXhkgWcRBamXY8Qu72qelwGGIeRbas-4t9x3097A5Hz21-U9~QmUekvLQxnF00SS33ItS8QAEQO74lTr-lqwcrkAdCnnc83D04eGrcYx7IQPaXg0Qmpz0E9VydKZKbGTpZD61bPxe4Wfu-6WVKmsHKj~ABQmm4Xb0Kc4XkcqJcwl81OKUNlAemVE0uPwiMVrJ6HdoA__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAIBW2GKAJU2YWZVLA

#16

You’re welcome. Glad you are back on track with it.