I am a subscriber to Knitting Help. I enjoy and appreciate your members’ skills, knowledge and expertise. I have a question about gauge. I want to use a previously knit Linda Marveng’s “Euler” cardigan pattern. The original called for a worsted yarn weight at 11 wpi, and 4.5 mm needles. The gauge for the original is 20 st X 27 rows.
The current yarn I am using is a fingering weight - Selkirk yarn from Fleece and Harmony. They recommend 3.75 mm to 4.5 mm needles with a gauge of 10 - 15 stitches for a 10 cm width. They do not note a gauge for rows.
I have knit the swatch on 4 mm needles. After blocking the swatch the results are:
22 St X 30 Rows for a 10 cm X 10 cm swatch. When I compare my results with the Euler pattern I see that my gauge is 2 stitches greater and 3 rows greater than Euler.
I like the fabric of the swatch, and I think it will work - however, I am rather a novice knitter. Will I be OK to go ahead and knit this pattern with this yarn?
Thank you for any help you might provide. Cheers, Dawn in South Surrey BC
If you knit with the fingering yarn the cardigan will be smaller than the dimensions given for whatever size you are making. You could knit a larger size although the drape will be different and you will have to pay attention to the shaping and lengths given for that size. You may make it work but it will take experimenting with the pattern and the cable pattern stitch. As a novice knitter it would be better to look for a true worsted weight for this pattern and use the fingering yarn for another pattern.
I’ve had this sweater in my favorites for too long. It’s lovely.
I have knit 2 of Marveng’s Euler cardigans. In one instance I used an Alpaca/Wool 50/50 - while I love it, the wool is too soft and drapes too much. In addition, the yarn has a halo which made the cabling less distinct. The second one I made I used Cascade 220 - much nicer result. The process of knitting this pattern was interesting: the back, sleeves and side panels in stockinette stitch was boring, while the cabling was really fun. Sewing it all together was a pain though. If you decide to take on the project check the sleeve length (too long for me) and the finished length (too short) for me.
1 Like
All good to know. Yes, just looking at the sleeves I would need to make a major adjustment. The cabling is indeed gorgeous.
I love the cables, but boy, that’s a LOT of stockinette! I might use the cable pattern for a scarf.
Pretty cardigan.
Although you liked the swatch on the 4mm you might try one on 3.75 and just see how it turns out. If you like the fabric and it turns out to be 20 sts per 10cm gauge then you could give the cardigan a go on that size.
You might also try measuring your swatch with a weight hanging on it because there’s going to be a fair amount of weight pulling down on the cardigan (just the weight of the fabric) which may effect the overall gauge. I think the weight may make the rows bigger and the stitches smaller (fewer rows per 10cm, more stitches per 10cm as they elongate)… if I’ve got that right. If not someone can chime in to correct me.
There are also the seams which help to stabilise the fabric.
It’s always a bit of an experiment using a different yarn, or different weight of yarn, I’ve done it a few times and have experienced being able to “just follow” a different size, but have also experienced needing to calculate lots of different aspects. It depends if you like experimenting.
You might try a swatch of the cable with your yarn as some yarns just don’t like working cables (my opinion) and I’ve had yarn I planned for a cable project then i hated working the stitches in that yarn and decided that yarn had to be for stockinette or garter only. Another yarn worked cables lovely and was a breeze to work traveling stitches with. Swatching is bypassed by some but for me it’s pretty important. I’d hate to get all the way through a huge stockinette project to then be stumped by the yarn refusing to cooperate on the cable piece, or just looking ugly on it.
Projects where I’ve been able to follow a different size, I work out how many stitches on my gauge to get the size I want on the schematic or pattern, then I look at the options for stitch counts at key points such as chest, and upper arm and see if one of them is close to the number I need. If it’s close I go with that and work stitch count for say M but measurements for size S. Then I check other stitch counts and measurements will work, across the shoulders, neck opening, wrist. Then I make sure to track every row so I can note down how many rows I need and ensure fronts and backs are equal. Your swatch will help with row calculations but as the fabric weighs itself down this can change on a larger piece.
The last top I made was fingering weight yarn with an aran weight pattern. I was really pleased with it.
Good luck if you decide to go for it.
Thank you all for your suggestions. I think I will give it a go - being mindful of all the considerations mentioned. Cheers everyone!
2 Likes