I was given this BEAUTIFUL poncho. It looks like it would fit my 2 year old, but I am not sure the cast on edge will go over my newborn’s head let alone the toddler’s. Please tell me there is a way to fix this. Someone put a lot of time into making this garmet and it’s so soft and pretty. I really would love to fix it.
Yes you can cut it back, pick up stitches and knit it. I’ve never done it but I’ve heard it can be done.
It’s the same as using a Invisible (Provisional) Cast-On, except you’ll have to use scissors to expose your live stitches.
I may be doing that to a cast off collar next week because nobody would give me a head measurement for my great niece.
As an addendum to the previous post, I would suggest that you use a yarn needle and lighter-weight yarn to run a lifeline through the first row of stitches below where you need to cut.
I’ve redone CO edges too many times to count. But agree with the mention of using a lifeline, esp if it’s an item worked by someone else and, thus, you may not be familiar with the sts, construction, etc. (When it’s my own work I know what to expect.) Once the lifeline is in place (just behind where you intend to cut), snip a st and as you free up sts place them on a ndl or holder (you could have a tapestry ndl with yarn, as well). Once all the sts are available, work them as you desire.
If you can’t match the alignment (some re-do’s cause a jog) or the st pattern you can opt for rib, seed, etc before BO. With this being the neckline(?) you might want to do something stretchy.
In your experience, have you needed MORE yarn? Matching it would be a challenge.
Not sure if that’s directed at me but lengthening or shortening kind of dictates the yarn requirements. I’ve always worked on my own pieces so had yarn available…if needed.
If you’re looking to increase the sz of the neck opening, you might be able to finish off with the amt you remove (kind of hard to tell w/o seeing the item and how the yarn that’s taken off frogs). Otherwise, you might be able to knit and/or crochet a finished edge with a contrasting yarn. Perhaps you could post a pic so we’d have a better idea what you’re up against.
Looks very basic with 1/1 rib and some kind of seam(?) or slipped st(?) edge (far right, left). Whatever those ‘elongated’ sts are might come into play but I doubt it based on the simplicity of the design.
The body of the poncho is just st st and garter. W/o seeing the entire piece you might decide how far back to frog. The st st section between the neck rib and garter may be a band of sts meant to repeat farther down so you might not want to leave just a tiny section of that. Would frogging back to the garter section and then working a new rib neck make the opening too large? (That’s what I might be inclined to do, thereby totally eliminating that upper section.)
ETA…if you opted to remove the upper st st section in one piece (or two if there are side seams) that’d be more than sufficient yarn to rebuild a neck ribbing and if you suspect acrylic that handles frogging well.
This pic shows nearly the whole shawl. I think it is knit in the round, but it might have been seamed really well on one side. This yarn is really stretchy, so I think if I go just 3 rows into the st st part and then rework the ribbing it will be fine.
How do I know what size needles to use or at least to start with? I’m sure matching the gauge will be a little trial and error?
How do I know what size needles to use or at least to start with? I’m sure matching the gauge will be a little trial and error?
Once you’ve frogged you can swatch to see what you think looks best. If you’re only doing the rib that should be a bit smaller in gauge. Make note of the rib gauge before you frog. (Is there ribbing elsewhere that you’re concerned with matching?)
The yarn looks to be perhaps a heavy worsted or bulky? (Nothing in pic to use for comparison.) Those weights use 8, 9, etc.
If it was knit ITR, all the better in terms of continuous yarn that you can re-use. But if not, you’ll need to undo any seams before frogging being careful not to cut the fabric (only undoing the seam). If the piece was worked ITR there’ wouldn’t be any seams on the inside (is the inside seam free?).