I’m new to knitting and have a question regarding the sl stitch in this pattern:
Since the pattern is done in 2x2 ribbing, is it necessary to bring the yarn forward to do the sl after turning the work when the yarn is already in back from having knit the last 2 stitches? I’ve been leaving the yarn in the back (yarn in back after turning), sl and continued to purl over the knit stitch to continue with the ribbing.
Unless otherwise stated in the pattern you usually slip the stitch purl wise with yarn in the back. That means to slip it needle tip to needle tip with the yarn in back as if to knit.
It doesn’t say on this pattern so it probably doesn’t make a difference as long as you’re consistent. As long as it looks good and you’re happy with it keep doing what you are.
Thanks so much for the welcome and for posting back.
I might have misunderstood what I’m supposed to do with sl. There was no indication in the pattern to do slp for the purl stitches in the ribbing - only sl. Basically I slipped every stitch (either knit or purl) by sliding from the left of the stitch to the right, but leaving the yarn where it falls naturally and not moving it forward, then back again to purl. Does this make sense?
If I understood your post, I should be doing an slp for the purl stitches. I’m into the pattern about 6 repeating rows after row 5 - I’m thinking I should probably start over again.
I appreciate the help and not too worried about starting over if I must.
The pattern is worked using short rows to create the shaping. They are using slipped stitches (sl) instead of wrapped stitches. When you slip the stitch will vary depending on where you are in the row. It’ll be a little confusing so keep track with a pencil and paper or on your pattern.
oops! did not mean “every” stitch, Jan so sorry for the miscommunication. I meant every one that needed to be slipped but – was slipping the same way consistently for either a knit or purl stitch.
Since the pattern doesn’t say (that I could see) I’m not sure it matters how you slip the stitch. In looking on Ravelry it seems some slipped knitwise and some purlwise. Whichever you think looks best is probably fine as long as you’re consistent.
Jan, I thought I might add this link which along with your posts helped clarify what I need to do - was having so much trouble communicating the issue, reason being that since I’m turning the work, where I am holding the yarn becomes an issue as well.
What I think I’m getting is that sometimes a pattern will tell you [B]generally[/B] to slip a stitch. From what I’ve read on the internet this project is really easy but the instructions lacking for a beginner like me - it’s why I held off on it for so long now.
If I slip all the stitches purlwise (the ones that need to be slipped) as she indicates, then I won’t have a problem with the yarn placement for the slip - just place the yarn properly for the next stitch. It also takes care of the purl stitches which you’ve indicated should be slipped purlwise.
Wondering if I should hold out a little longer, I might still be confused lol. I’ll be happier starting over again but wanted to thank you again since I hesitated going any further.
I can see why so many people love this project. It’s a great stash buster and done in a few hours tops. Quite pretty too!
Unless your yarn won’t stand up to ripping it out and restarting which is the worst case scenario, I think you should go ahead and try this. It’s cute! I’m adding it to my list of Must Knits!
Short rows are very confusing at first. Once you get going with them it will get easier. I bet you can do it now. You can always ask any questions you have and if one explanation isn’t working for you, another just might. I agree with Jan, pick a way to slip and stay consistent.
It’s completely ripped back now and will start again soon. Gramma on this pattern the short rows are not wrapped and picked up as they usually are - we’re just meant to turn the work around.
I’m just guessing but I think my problem is that sometimes I’m turning the work right at a purl set and this might be completely mathematical issue since I reduced the number of co stitches to 90 (from 126 in the original pattern I think). Many complaints that the fo was much to large. Using a smaller needle size helps as well, a 6 was suggested in quite a few posts so I went ahead with that size.
I’m not sure if using the original amount of stitches means that you will always make a turn right before a knit set of stitches in which case the wording need not be specific – in that case the slip is always consistent and I wouldn’t have to switch back and forth (whether landing on knit or purl like I am now).
I wish I can explain this much better :pout: Thanks both of you for being patient with me.
If I understand your dilemma, you don’t know how to have the yarn in position for the first stitch after you turn when it’s a knit. I would move the yarn into position to do a knit stitch before I slip one. I think that would solve that problem. Changing the stitch count might end up causing more confusion later on in the pattern. When you start it again be sure to ask any questions. Eventually things can get sorted out. Maybe I’ll be able to start mine soon and will better understand what you’re dealing with. HTH
I would just cast on with the smaller needle and the normal number of stitches.
As for the slipping…I would also probably always slip the same purlwise with yarn in back and then move it as necessary. But, you could also slip purlwise with the yarn in front for purl on purl rows and in the back on knit rows. It’s really not critical to the pattern as far as I can tell. If it was the designer would specify.
I can’t thank you guys enough for your replies! You’ve been a great help.
The cast on is 120, not 126 as I thought and it is divisible by 4. Instead of 90 I cast on 88 which is also divisible by 4. I’m going to see what happens now when I make my turns.
Gramma if you’re starting on this one anytime soon the word is to start with less stitches as and a smaller needle since so many of the comments have been that the end product is gi-normous. I’m also keeping my ribbing rather tighter than usual since I’d like it to be snug.
Okay, going to try this now and see where I end up on every turn and how I’ll approach it. :knitting:
Hi Jan, just missed your post. Many of the comments were to cast on less including the smaller needle, but you’re probably right I about getting away with just a smaller needle!
The pattern is set up so that the ribbing is treated in sets of 4, which I was completely oblivious to starting out. When I decreased the number of stitches I never took this into account – I generally do, but this time I used another knitter’s number without really thinking about it.
The pattern indicates to set up markers at the end of each row to work up to before turning. Right now I always end with a set of 2 knit stitches, and turning to start the row with a set of purl stitches. The yarn is always in the front (after turning) and I am consistently slipping purlwise - very neat and easy. Before this was not the case since every time I ended a row I was alternating with either a set of knit or purl stitches and I had a feeling this was not right because of the inconsistency.
Thanks again for helping me think this through. I’m so glad to be here!
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”]Hey everyone! Just wanted to touch base with you on my FO.
The fit was perfect with co 88, 92 would have been just fine as well. The yarn I used was the recommended 127 Print by Filatura di Crosa. It’s discontinued but I was able to get my hands on a couple of skeins online. I might make another one very soon using Noro Kureyon, I think that yarn is recommended as well and these look nicer in color (I started mine with neutrals).
hmm just tried to and it said my file exceeds a number. Not sure what to do. It’s in Iphoto but don’t know how to reduce the file to post the picture. I’ve never had this problem when posting photos :??
Cool! :yay: I love it! It looks like it’s smiling! :teehee:
Thanks for all the good advice about smaller needles and casting on fewer stitches. I have some sport weight Felici that I might use for one of these.
I picked up on the 4 st repeat and knew it would have an effect on the short row turning but didn’t think to mention it. I’m sorry. I am glad you figured it out.