Baby sweater help

first time knitting a sweater. starting with a baby size so i get the basics down. but this pattern has me flummoxed.

“Sweater Pattern Rows
Row 1: Purl
Row 2: A, k2tog x 3, (m1, k1) x 3, B
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: kfb, k”y”

CO 34

IMPORTANT: First and last 3 sts always knit (to form a button band) these stitches are not given below

Row 1-4: knit
Row 5: Purl
Row 6: kfb, k1 (48 sts including border stitches)
Row 7-10: Pattern, A=k2tog, k2, m1, k1; B=k1, m1, k2, k2tog; y=2 (62sts)”

so i’m ready to start row 7, except… which is the pattern? the one listed in ‘7-10’ or the one listed under ‘sweater pattern rows’?

It’s actually both!
Row 7 is row 1 of the pattern stitch, a purl row.
Row 8 is row 2 of the pattern stitch:
Pattern A is k2tog,k2,m1,k1,
Pattern B is k1,m1,k2,k2tog
So substituting for A and B in row 2 you get:
k2tog, k2, m1,k1, k2tog, x 3 (m1, k1) x3 k1,m1,k2, k2tog

Having ugly flashbacks to Algebra I yet? Yikes, what a complicated way to write a pattern. I’d skip it and go to one of the variations on the 5-hour baby sweater. Use whatever increase you prefer if you don’t want the lacy look of the yo increases. At least the pattern is more knitter friendly and forgiving.

thanks for the clarification!

to her credit, the designer got back to me last night… and had a similar (tho less clearly worded) answer…

“A little bit of both (which is probably even more confusing, right?)…
The pattern is the rows 1 thru 4 given immediately under the header pattern rows. You will notice in row 2 there is an A and a B. These are what’s listed under the Row 7-10 heading. That means that Row 2 is k2tog, k2,m1,k1, k2togx3, (m1,m1)x3, k1, m1, k2, k2tog. You’ll see y is also given (as = 2) in the Row 7-10 header which tells you that Row 4 will be kfb, k2.Hopefully helps clarify for you. If not, feel free to PM me with more questions.”

so, i thanked her, and then i did frog it. i don’t need that kind of hassle/struggle through a whole garment, even if it is baby-sized.

i was going to try this one instead, but i can’t get gauge without going way up in needle size, and i think her thick-thin yarn is closer to a super bulky than regular bulky, whereas my yarn is closer to aran. so the hunt continues… :wink:

ok, switched over to the baby sized shawl collar cardigan from bernat/yarnspirations.

but as usual, not trusting myself or the pattern…

knitting the smallest size, and done with all this:
“Next 2 rows: Rib to last 7 sts. Leave rem 7 sts on a st holder. 55 (59-63-67-75) sts rem at end of 2nd row.
Change to larger circular needle and proceed in stocking st until work from beg measures 7½ (8-8½-9½-10½)” [19 (20.5-21.5-24-26.5) cm], ending on a purl row.” great, done… boring, but did teach myself to knit backwards (stockinette with right side always facing) so that’s fun…

so now time for this:
“Divide for Back and Fronts: K15 (16-17-18-20). Slip last 4 sts onto a safety pin.K29 (31-33-35-39). Slip last 4 sts onto a safety pin. Knit to end of row. Slip all sts onto a length of yarn. Sts are now divided as: 11 (12-13-14-16) sts for Right and Left Fronts. 25 (27-29-31-35) sts for Back.”

so i knit 15, and then the last 4 of those are what goes on the safety pin? and that won’t mess up my working yarn, i don’t think… and then knit 29, and put the last 4 of those on another safety pin, still not messing up my working yarn, i guess… and then knit the last 11. so i end up with 11 regular (front right?), 4 pinned (under right arm?), 25 regular (back?), 4 pinned (under left arm?), 11 regular (front left?). but then why am i slipping all 55 back onto waste yarn?

really feeling out of my element again here. blurgh.

Yes, you’ve got it. Slipping the last 4 knit sts to the safety pin will leave the working yarn at the end of the pin (or scrap yarn) and ready to continue knitting.

This sweater is going to have a raglan upper body and sleeves so you need to knit the sleeves at this point. The sleeves are a new cast on. If you have another needle in the same size, you can leave the body sts on the first needle and use the second needle to knit the sleeves They are completely separate at this point. Under the directions for Yoke, you’ll join up the body and sleeves, purling across the LF, sleeve, back, sleeve and RF.

Knitting backwards is a good idea, especially on a fairly small project. Good for you for learning!
Thank you for the pattern. I’ve added it to my to-do list.

thank you yet again! :wink: have multiple cables, so will just get another one and attach the right needle tips. seems like i should be able to do the sleeves 2@aT cuff-up, magic loop style. we’ll see what develops the rest of this weekend…