Still chugging along. I took a break from it for a little while to knit some knucks, but the other day I sewed up the side seams and have started the sleeves. I didn’t appreciate all the k2p2 rib that I’d be doing for these sleeves. Man, do I hate ribbing! lol
Knitpicks wrote me back again, asking me to elaborate on the starburst error. So I did, and gave them links to Amber’s pics so they could see what I was talking about when I said that it’s rotated. I told them about the collar issues too.
I noticed on the 8/10 errata that they suggested forgoing 8 rows in the collar if it looked like it was getting too big. But no fix for the starburst yet. When I get a chance, I’ll draw a little sketch of how to fix it.
I also noticed on the 8/10 errata that there’s even more errors in their corrections. lol In the picking up stitches part for the sleeves in the bigger sizes, they transposed a couple of numbers. Whoever’s writing their patterns needs to pay more attention. ha ha ha!
Oh brother! I saw that they’d updated the errata for the pattern, but didn’t look at all the details! I hope they get a corrected version up soon. It really ticks me off that they’d have a pattern out there that they know is flawed! Granted, the pattern errors aren’t catastrophic ones, but it’s still very frustrating. :-x
Here’s my quick and dirty diagram of the fix for the starburst rotation. For row 27, place your 4 markers where the red dots are, right before the yarnover holes there. Place them so that when you yo, pm, k1, yo, it remains consistent with the previous rows. This way you will continue those 4 lines of yarnovers holes in a consistent, aesthetic way. Place a fifth marker to denote the top center, because the 4 sides will not be equal anymore - the sides are a smidge longer when you divide up the stitches this way.
Amber, I really like your skinny sleeves, I think they look better that way. The sweater looks more sleek and the belled cuffs look more dramatic. So, if I decide to take the plunge and make the sweater, I will definitely pick up fewer stitches for my sleeves.
Thanks for the sketch sugarbeth! When I get to read through the whole pattern, I will be able to understand where to correct the starburst orientation.
I am thinking of modifying the collar to be like the Otis wrap from Knitty.com and wearing the sweater over a camisole. [url=http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring04/PATTotis.html]
I ordered the pattern and the color cards for merino style and elegance late last week. I won’t even get the pattern until later this week so I can’t make too many modifications yet.
I’m trying to figure out what to do with the sleeves, too. My first attempt I picked up 60 stitches, but the sleeve was too tight on my arms, and cut too high into my armpit. So I took out about an inch of the side seaming (which turned out to be more accurate - I sewed up too high the first time) and I was able to get 72 stitches picked up like the pattern says.
Since I want longer sleeves also, I’ve been knitting these 72 stitches, and I’m thinking they’re going to end up too saggy. They’re fine on the upper arm, but not below the elbow. So I’m thinking maybe I’ll work some decreases down the length of the arm? I dunno. It’s definitely going to show with that k2p2 rib, but maybe if they’re on the underside it won’t be too obvious.
Casio, I’ve never seen Elegance, but I’m guessing it will be a better yarn that this Merino Style I’m using. I’m not too keen on it - I think it will look worn REALLY quickly, judging by how fuzzed out it gets when I rip stuff out.
What about the sizes? Did you make the size to match your actual chest measurement? Is is too loose or too tight? It bothers me that there doesn’t seem to be a place in the construction where I can check to see if it is going to fit right. I don’t have any other garments to compare it to; with other sweaters, I have measured a similar sweater that I like to choose a size, but that technique won’t work here.
I got the pattern and color card, I plan to make it in merino style petal. But I can’t start until I finish the sweater I am working on now (Josephine from Knitty fall 2005). Hopefully I will be ready to start it by October or November, depending on my success with the giant shawl collar on Josephine.
Well, my chest measurement is 32" and I knit the smallest size (33"). My gauge was a little off though, so mine probably came out a bit smaller than 33". Mine could be a bit bigger, but it’s okay the way it is.
I’m not an expert by any means, but I think you’d want an inch or two of ease, so it’s snug, but not baggy.
Ditto Amber on the sizes - I’m 32" and I’m knitting the 33". It’s still really hard to tell how this is fitting. The starburst part is so wavy and wonky. I think maybe if I did it again, I would go up a size. It’s really hard to say, though - especially since I’m altering the length, too.
whew. You had me worried for a minute. But Amber’s looks like it fits great in her pictures. I am sure yours will too, after it is all finished and blocked–like you said. I look forward to seeing some pictures.
I am requiring myself to finish the sweater I am working on before I order my yarn, but with a nice car trip this weekend, I should make a lot of progress. The pattern looks so fun to do, I am excited to start.
Casio
PS. I obviously don’t know how to do all of the cool message board stuff, like inserting links and quoting previous messages. I will figure that out eventually too.
I finished one sleeve so far, and I’ve got the length and width how I want it…I’m just not sure I’m liking this drop stitch thing. Now in other people’s pics, it looks nice, but up close? I dunno…it seems really sloppy on mine. Off to look at other options for making that bell shape happen on the sleeves…
Okay, I’m there and now your chart makes sense. Of course, I had to knit past it before I really understood what it all meant. So, now I am unknitting two rows so I can fix the placement of one of the increases. I got the other three well-placed and I tried to talk myself into ignoring the fourth one because it is a the bottom and probaly wouldn’t be noticable in the finished product anyway. But I really like symmetry, so I tink.
When I have row 27 all lined up right, I will post again with my directions. Anyone else out there working on this?
When I get all the way through the increases, I am going to try to count out a bind-off row, rather than trying to get everything off the big needle and onto holders. I will let you know if that works.
Here is my re-interpretation of Row 27, so it is visually symmetrical with the starburst.
Starting at the beginning of the round: K24, yo, pm, k1, yo; K55, yo, pm, k1, yo; K51, yo, pm, k1, yo; K55, yo, pm, k1, yo; K26 (to end of round).
From here you can use the markers to guide the increases, as directed in the pattern, but you can’t use the guidelines of “repeat rounds 28 and 29 until there are 66(72, 76, etc) stitches between each marker…”
So, I figured out the number of stitches I need to increase (216 for the finished starburst, 304 for my size, means I need to increase 88 total and I just did 8 in row 27, so I need 80 more) and then divide by 8 to get my number of rows to increase. I need to repeat rows 28 and 29 10 more times and end with a row 28. When I get there, I will make sure my count equals 304 stitches for the entire round and then I will move on to separating and binding off top, bottom, and sides.
I have the back finished and the fronts both increased. I have them on the same needle now so I am sure they will be the same length after I knit the last 14 or so rows. Then the ruffle, collar, and sleeves. I wish I could have it done to wear for the Christmas season, but I don’t think that is realistic.
I bound off of the sides during the step where I separated the top from the sides and bottom. In general terms, starting from the beginning of row marker, top center, I bound-off half of the collar, knit the left front, bound-off the left side, knit the bottom, bound-off the right side, knit the right front, and bound-off the second half of the collar. I liked doing it that way because I didn’t have a bunch of stitches on the sides sitting around on holders, when they are going to be bound-off anyway. The starburst is centered on the back.
I wish I would have twisted the stitch between the yarn-overs on the increase rows, to be consistent with the rest of the yo, k1tbtl, yo’s. I followed the instructions as written, but I would change it if I could.
I might try blocking it once I have finished the fronts, just to make sure I like the length before I plunge into the ruffle.
Sounds like it’s coming along! I recently picked mine back up and started on the second sleeve. I don’t think I elaborated before…I ended up putting a pair of decreases every 12th row on the underside of the sleeve until the flare part. Otherwise the sleeve would’ve been too wide on my skinny arms.
