Anyone knitting Starburst?

Inspired by Amber’s Starburst, I decided to jump in and do one of my own.

Knitpick’s Pattern

I’m using Knitpick’s Merino Style in “Storm”. I’m thinking it will be a nice sweater for Winter Solstice.

Anyhoo, I started this a couple of days ago, and am almost done with the starburst on the back. I remember reading Amber’s account of how the starburst was off-center, and I couldn’t figure out what she was talking about. But now I know. The pattern is wrong.

If you were to follow the pattern as written, then then starburst is rotated off-center, so that it’s no longer symmetrical from side-to-side. Last night I got almost to the part where you divide up the sweater into sections, when I realized just how the pattern was wacked.

I ended up ripping out a bunch because my anal-retentiveness would not put up with an asymmetrical starburst. :lol: It’s so frustrating to rip out stuff that isn’t your fault! :wall:

In Round 27, you divide the round into 4 sections with markers, later becoming the top, bottom and 2 sides. This is where the pattern starts going bad. You can’t have 4 equal sections and make the design work. So I ended up placing the 4 new markers where I thought they should go, with my round-starting marker at the center top. This results in the sides being slightly longer than the top/bottom, which is good because I want to make the sweater a bit longer anyway. So hopefully it will be smooth sailing from here on out.

So if there’s anyone out there making this thing, please join me. And if not, then I can just talk to myself and maybe I’ll help someone out who makes this in the future. :wink:

WOW. Good for you for figuring it out! I love the starburst, but I don’t like the overall look of the sweater (it’s either the dropped sleeves, or the fact that it’s the knitpicks model with the wierd chin that I avoid). This is a great sweater for our year of the sweater KAL, too!

Have you been able to chart/write your changes? Knitpicks might be interested in seeing them, since the pattern is incorrect. Surely other people have had the same problem.

I wrote down what I did so far to fix it, but since I was working on a ripped out sweater, my original round marker might be off by a stitch. :lol: Next time I have my notes by the computer, I’ll post my corrections here. I sent a note to Knitpicks telling them about the problem, and they said they’d pass my email to their pattern editor.

It’s still fun, though. Never started a sweater in the middle of the back before! I don’t think I’ve done this many yo’s before, either. :lol:

sugarbeth,

That’s awesome that you figured out what was wrong with the pattern. Pattern errors are sooooo frustrating. Grrrr. I’m glad you let Knit Picks know.

It really is a fun pattern though, isn’t it? I can’t wait to see yours! I think it’ll be gorgeous in Storm. :inlove:

Amber, you should send Knitpicks an email too - and your pics. Then they’d definitely take a harder look at the pattern. Your sweater is still gorgeous, though - it’s the whole reason I’m knitting it. :thumbsup:

That’s a great idea. I exchanged a couple emails with the designer (Kristin Omdahl) while I was knitting the sweater to clairify some things in the pattern, so I just went ahead and emailed her about it. Hopefully, with your email to Knit Picks and mine to Kristin, they will publish the corrections soon!

Gah! This pattern! :wall:

So I’ve knitted up the fronts, adding an extra ten rows to the bottoms because I want it a bit longer. Then I also added ten rows to the bottom of the back. I’m going to leave them for the moment, and do everything else first before I tackle the bottom ruffle.

Um, the collar. Boy, are those instructions unnecessarily confusing and vague. It doesn’t give you any idea of the spacing for picking up stitches, but the picked-up-stitch number really influences the depth of the collar. I’ve ripped this sucker out so much that the yarn is already looking worn around the neck. :doh: I’m figuring that I should only pick up the slipped stitches on the ends (making 1 pick up for every 2 rows). Also, it made things easier to pick up all the stitches first (having them on the needles already for when I need to pick up 4 at the end of each row) then to start I can just rejoin at the back. I’m forgoing the 8 rows knitted straight, as the collar is already going to be pretty wide, and the picture doesn’t even seem to have those. I’ll just start going into the bind-off phase as soon as I hit the bottom. And yeah…I guess I need to do a sloped bind off? I’ll likely do more than 4 stitches at a time to keep the collar from getting too big.

Hopefully this collar will get done soon, then I’ll post some progress pics.

Ooooo…I hate this stupid collar! :wall: I should’ve left in my first attempt, because that looked much better than my current one. The first time, I picked up 1 front stitch on every row - and while that gave me a bizillion stitches, it was much neater looking than picking up only 1 stitch per two rows.

And I’m not liking this step-wise bind-off that the pattern calls for. Even with a sloping bind-off, it’s still coming out crappy looking.

So I’m going to scrap it again, and come up with something I like better. Use some short rows or something. So I can bind off straight all around.

It usually seems to work best when picking up stitches to pick up 3 for every 4 rows. More than every other row, but not as many as for every row.

sue

Ah, well that explains why my collar came out too wide – I picked up stitches for every row! Edit: Okay, it wasn’t every row. I picked up for each slipped stitch, so every other row, I guess.

Good luck coming up with a solution!!!

ETA: I didn’t have a problem with the stepped bind-off, but I slipped the first stitch of each grouping knit-wise (is that a sloped bind-off?). Anyway, I found that the collar stretches out quite a bit, so that the ribbing is almost flat, and then the bind-off looks pretty smooth.

Sue, that sounds like a good ratio to try. And Amber, I’ll have to try out the bind off the way you did it - maybe that’ll look better. I did the sloped bind-off like in the knittinghelp videos, and with these size 10’s, it left this hole on the edge that was really annoying. I’m thinking your way might be the ticket. :thumbsup:

Thanks, ladies!

Okay, I think I’ve got a decent collar on this thing, mostly by improvisation. :slight_smile:

I picked up 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the front. Spacing them out by the mantra “(1)slipped stich - (2)in between - (3)slipped stitch”. In the end I got 56 picked up stitches along each of the fronts, 24 stitches along the back neck. Picked them all up first, then broke off and started knitting the collar along the back neck.

Used size 9 needles to knit the ribbing. Made it look neater (I must knit ribbing really loose or something.)

I started off picking up 4 stitches at the end of each row. But when I got halfway down the fronts, I upped that to 6 stitches at the end of each row. Once I got to the bottom, I turned around and started binding off immediately. I cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of each row.

I still kept ending up with that hole at the transition between the previous bind-off and the new bind-off. So I just fiddled with it until it looked nice. It was the loop from the previous bind-off that would always stretch out and get all huge and make the hole. So what I did was reach down underneath it to grab another loop of the yarn that was making that stitch, and wrap it around my right needle again, cinching that stitch tight. Then slipped the next stitch onto the right needle, and pull the double-loops over that. No more hole.

I kept up with binding off 6 stitches at a time, until about halfway up when it was starting to look like the collar would get too huge, so then started binding off 8 stitches at a time, then 10, then finally I was done. And it looks fine.

So now I need to sew the side seams for the sleeves. I’m leaving the bottom open for a little while, in case I want to add even more to the length. Of course my new problem is that I think I’m going to run out of yarn. So the bottom ruffle will likely be in another dye lot. But that’ll be the best spot to get away with that - I hope!

That’s actually pretty common on most regular bindoffs. What I’ve done is not knit that stitch on the BO, but slip it, then knit the next one and BO - like a sl 1 k1 psso. Helps minimize that hole.

sue

Sugarbeth, I can’t wait to see your finished sweater! We will all celebrate with you 'cause this sounds like it has been a major frustration.

As for the appeal of the pattern - I think some folks might not be too tempted by it because of the color that KnitPicks shows it in. Amber’s choice is great! And I’m sure yours is much better than that kind of anemic looking lavendar KnitPicks chose.

Good luck with finishing it!

jenn

Sue, that’s an interesting way to do that bind-off, too! another one to try! :slight_smile:

Jenn~ thanks!

I don’t have recent pics yet, but I do have one of the back. You can at least see how the color and the starburst looks.

:inlove: :inlove: Pretty!!

Sugarbeth! Oh man! That’s a grrrrrrreat color! I think the pattern needs really dramatic color to show off the starburst pattern to its best.

Beautiful work.

jenn

Gorgeous!!

Any more updates on this sweater? I just bought the pattern, and I want to read it through before I decide whether to make it. It has been very helpful to read about problems other knitters have already solved. Any other insights from the designer?

Check the errata page at Knit Picks. They posted some changes to the pattern on August 10th.