Yes, cast on enough sts (20-24) and knit the chart pattern. That’s the stitch pattern that the stitch gauge of 11sts was measured from. Knit for ideally about 4 inches in length.
If the chart only has enough sts to cover one repeat, cast on enough sts for 2 repeats of the chart or whatever it takes to get closest to the 20-24stitch number.
That’s going to give you the best measurement of gauge and help you determine which size to make.
Yarn Substitution
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Will do! Thank you for your advice! 
I will keep you posted.
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I always feel like a bit of a party pooper when I say this… prepare to be pooped…
Did you wash or block your swatch?
The measurement, stitch count per 4 inch can be different after washing and will effect the overall size of the project.
I can’t access my own notes at the moment to demonstrate the difference in numbers by giving a real example but in short I measured stitch count before washing and measured again after washing and drying and the gauge changed and when I worked out the difference this would make in the actual size of the project it would be significant. Your gauge and stitch count need to be for after the piece is finished and washed. It’s no good it being a perfect fit before washing and then too small or too baggy after.
I agree with your plan as suggested by salmonmac to do a new swatch, meanwhile you could wash that first swatch and see how the fabric changes in drape, feel, look, and stitch count.
It’s worth it. The more you know about how the yarns respond to being worked and washed the better informed you will be about which size to follow or how much to alter the pattern (eg by casting on a different amount or by working out how many rows you need for a sleeve the correct length for you).
Based on your initial stitch count , salmonmac has suggested following the 3rd or 4th size. If you’re able to follow a given size it is soooo much easier to work the pattern, you just follow all the numbers for that size (perhaps checking sleeve length and other bits) rather than having to recalculate every aspect of the pattern.
If it’s hard to decide which to follow (ie your cast on works out at 62 sts, the 3rd and 4th sizes have 60 and 64 stitches so you have a dilemma) then look at how many more the larger would be, just 2 extra stitches on the back, probably another 2 on the front, so the overall circumference is increased by, say 4 stitches- look at 4 stitches on your swatch and consider, how big is this, how much width does it add, am I OK with this little bit of extra ease?
Using this kind of maths I made my son, age 12, a cardigan from a pattern but I followed age 3 or 6 or something that sounds quite crazy…but the stitch count for the width was spot on and although I needed to add some length in the body and arms it was reasonably easy to do so. Some times the size you follow can sound a bit crazy.
I hope this helps.
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I cast on 26 sts as that would have been half of the original sts to cast on for the back in size XS. I worked just the pattern stitches which consisted of:
4 rows for Pat A followed by 2 rows of a ridge line.
Then 4 rows of Pat B followed by 2 rows of ridge line.
Then 4 rows of Pat C followed by ridge line. And lastly 4 rows of Pat D followed by 2 rows of ridge line.
The original pattern for an XS called to cast on 52 sts which when worked in the pattern should measure approximately 22 inches across.
My 26 cast on after working the pattern comes out to 8 inches across which if doubled would only be 16 inches completing the back. I would still need another 6 inches to make the XS.
ROWS upon completion of pattern are a total of 24 and when measured they come out to 4 inches exactly.
Do you think I have to worry too much about the rows as I can always work in pattern until I get the desired length and compare to the schematics for the pattern.
What do you think about going up to the next size which would be a size S and asks to cast on 56 sts. That seems closer to what my count is isn’t it? Or am I missing something?
Thanks again for all your help and support!
The back and presumably the fronts increase so the measurement of 22 1/2 for the XS on the schemating is taking the increases into account. It’s not the measurement of the initial cast on but the measurement after the increases or the measurement at the bust that the pattern is using for sizes. I’m sorry that I didn’t realize this sooner.
The cast on of 52sts increases to 64sts so that gives you about 11sts/4inches which is consistent with the pattern gauge.
When you measure over the middle 4 inches in your swatch, how many sts do you have?
The row gauge is probably not critical here because the pattern will likely have you knit a given number of inches rather than rows.
The next size up casts on 56sts and increases to 68sts. At a gauge of 13sts/4inches, that’ll give you 20inches across the back. That’s a bit closer to the 22 1/2 inches. The 3rd size casts on 60sts and increases to 72sts which at 13sts/4inches is a little over 22 inches. Maybe the 3rd size is closer to what you want? This is supposed to be over-sized as an outer jacket if that’s what you would like.
When measuring one inch across I’m getting 4 sts to an inch. It’s hard to see where one begins and ends.
I
First picture is of the swatch AND second picture is of one inch of sts.
The yarn combination looks beautiful. It isn’t easy to mark sts with this knit fabric but what I usually do in this situation is mark off 4 inches on the knit fabric with markers then follow the columns of sts up to the needle. It’s much easier to count sts as loops over the needle. Because of the stitch pattern even this isn’t going to be simple.
Sixteen sts/4 inches is really far off the pattern gauge. If larger needles won’t work because the knit fabric becomes too lacy, then you may have to change yarn. Maybe a thinner mohair?
Forgive me if this sounds daft but have you checked you have the right needle size? “Size 10” in UK is different to size 10 US and both are different to size 10mm.
You’re using 3 strands (2 of 1 and 1 of the other) and still getting too many stitches per inch.
I’m scratching my head wondering why your gauge is so different.
These 2 yarns held together (1 of each like your pattern) are used in this drops pattern, the gauge for 4 inch square is 11 sts - exactly as your pattern calls for. In this pattern the needle size is 8mm.
One other thought. Looking back at the earlier posts, are you doubling up on the brushed Alpaca Silk, using 2 strands of it with one of Nepal?
There are 2 sizes of needles used.
Both are US size needles.
One is a size 6 (4mm) and the larger is the 10 (6mm).
I am using size 10 US needles as stated in the pattern…It tells you WITH LARGER NEEDLES and ONE strand of A and B to Cast on X amount of sts.
Then work in Pat A etc.
Because the count was less when I initially did this I doubled up on the thinner of the two yarns.
I am using 2 strands of Drops Alpaca Silk and One of Drops Nepal.
Here are the Materials needed:
Sizes. XS (S, M, L, XL). Coat measures 44½ (47, 50, 53, 56)" at underarm (but-toned) and 28 (28, 29, 29, 29¾)" long (not including edging). Shown in size Medium.
Materials. A. 9 (9, 10, 10, 11) skeins Classic Elite ‘Montera’ (50% llama, 50% wool; 3½ oz/100g; 127 yds/114m) in #3839
Camelid (A).
B. 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) skeins Classic Elite La Gran’ (74% mohair, 13% wool, 13% nylon; 1½ oz/40g; 90 yds/81 m) in #6587 Otter (B).
C. 1 skein Classic Elite Tapestry (75% wool, 25% mohair; 1¾ oz/50g; 95 yds/85m) in #2213 Black ©.
D.One pair each sizes 6 and 10 (4 and 6 mm) needles, or size to obtain gauge.
E. Stitch holders.
F. JHB International: Five 1"/2.5cm buttons, #82630 Don Quixote.
Gauge: 11 sts and 18 rows to 4"/10 cm in St st with 1 strand each A and B held tog using size 10 (6 mm) needles.
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I guess my next question would pertain to the fact that the first swatch that I made was done in st st NOT pattern stitches. Would that not have something to do with it also?
Since the gauge is given in the pattern stitch, that’s what you need to work rather than stockinette.
Now working the swatch in pattern you’re getting 16sts measured over 4" is that correct?
The pattern yarns, LaGran (16sts/4" stockinette) and Montera (14-16sts/4" stockinette) give a final gauge in pattern of 11sts/4" according to the pattern (one strand each A and B).
You are working with Drops Alpaca Silk (17sts/4" stockinette) and Drops Nepal (17sts/4" stockinette). It’s not a perfect comparison but it seems that you should be getting a gauge less than 16 or 17sts/4". Not perfect because we’re looking at stockinette vs pattern stitches. In fact the gauge of these two yarn held together, two strands of aran weight equals about 12sts/4".
If you add two strands of one of the yarns so that you’re now working with 3 strands the gauge should be even lower, say 9sts/4".
So there’s something I’m missing here. I’d expect the gauge in pattern to be a lower number than the stockinette partly because of the garter stitch contribution.
Have you tried going to a larger needle size? Pattern recommendations are just that, recommendations. You may knit more tightly than the pattern designer.
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Salmonmac from what knitterless has posted of information the gauge is given for stockinette, not in pattern. Are you seeing the gauge in pattern somewhere else?
The drops pattern I linked is a gauge of 11 stitches per 4 inch with 1 of each yarn on 8mm. Maybe try this as it’s the suggest needle size for these yarns held together even though it’s not what the pattern says?
At the moment this seems impossible to holding 3 strands of this weight and it still being a long way off gauge.
Gauge: 11 sts and 18 rows to 4"/10 cm in St st with 1 strand each A and B held tog using size 10 (6 mm) needles.
I’m looking at the details on the Ravelry page which give the gauge as “11stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in chart pattern using larger needles & 1 strand each of A & B.”
I worked PAT A for 24 rows and casted on 37 sts which would be HALF of the sts called for the BACK when making a SIZE SMALL.
My original plan was to make a size XS.
The ruler I have is a clear one so I’m using an 8.5 by 11 inch piece of paper in the background so you can see it better.
Upon measuring the width across it is a little more than the 11 inches.
I think the drape of the three strands of yarn works better than when I did the initial 2 strands as stated in the pattern.
There’s a ridge line which I carried out so you could better see where PAT A started and ended.
Here’s the details from the pattern. I thought I uploaded a picture before but I couldn’t see it so I’m going to upload one.
This is where it states In st st and gives the numbers of rows and stitches it will carry out !
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You did post it previously which is why I raised the question about gauge in St st or in patt. The info on ravelry must be different to the pattern.
Although it doesn’t seem to be effecting the gauge to the good in either stitch does it?
OK, here’s another crazy question, - were you sent the correct yarn?
Is the fluffier one with the haze definitely drops brushed alpaca silk, which is aran weight and just as thick as the Nepal? Its niggling in my head that there is something not right and I am wondering if you’ve accidentally got drops kid silk which is a lace weight?
Adding 3 aran weight together, as salmonmac has said would make the stitch count fewer per inch (i would imagine the fabric being a bit stiff) but you are not seeing it in your swatch.
I have the Drops brushed alpaca silk which is the one I’m doubling and the heavier is the Drops Nepal which I’m using one strand of.
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