Yarn Question

Hi.I was wondering if a person has to use the same brandname yarn as the pattern?
What do you guys think ?

Can you use the same brand of yarn as the pattern calls for? OMG - that’s amazing. :yum:

I rarely use the yarn specified. If it makes up to your liking, matches gauge if needed, things like that, use whatever yarn you like. Often patterns are published to get people to buy the yarn and that yarn might be very expensive or yarn I don’t want to use. I might have used a pattern on the label of yarn I bought with that yarn, I’m not sure.

1 Like

I RARELY use the same yarn as the designer. Just see what weight and gauge the pattern calls for then find a sub and do a swatch to make sure you get the correct gauge. :slight_smile:

I am with @Jan_in_CA and @GrumpyGramma i rarely use the yarn that is specified with the pattern. I find that i have my favorite name yarn

Preferred yarn, preferred techniques, customized sizes. Perhaps instead of “pattern” they should call the “rough suggestions”.

1 Like

Rough suggestions. You know, that’s a pretty good description of how I look at patterns. I’ve yet to use a pattern I didn’t change in some way or other. I often simply skip them altogether, just get ideas from them.

1 Like

I bought a knits for men pattern book. Made one sweater nearly as written (not her fault it is how the cable is written in my cable book) with the yarn I want instead. Another sweater was sort of made, I made a 2x6 rib sweater a completely different way. Mostly I see designs and stitch patterns. My hope with getting a Fallingblox book is that some of his double knitting godhood rubs off, not so much for the color charts.

I learned to start at the neck and work down. I can do raglan or set in style sleeves seamlessly. The only gauge swatching I do is to decide which needles I want to use with the yarn I like. For a raglan I then figure out how many stitches for the back neck, do about 1/3 to 1/2 that number for each shoulder. For a shoulder “seam” start I need a CO number for the shoulder and a CO number for the neck and these are also pretty proportionate. The rest is worked out as I move down the sweater. That way I can make a sweater to fit anyone. For simpler knitting I can totally avoid most number manipulation - that stuff can ruin a perfectly good day for me.