What kind of decrease do I do on this pattern?


With A, cast on 36 sts.

With A, work 12 rows in K1, p1 Rib. Cut A. With B, work 12 rows in rib. Continue working in rib, working 12 rows with A and 12 rows with B until scarf measures about 150 in. [381 cm] from beg. Bind off.


Weave in ends.


With A, cast on 100 sts.

With A, work 12 rows in K1, p1 rib. Cut A. With B work 14 rows in rib. Cut B. With A work 1 row in rib.

Next Row: Continue in rib as established, work 25 sts, (place marker, work 25 sts) 3 times – 4 groups of 25 sts each with markers between groups.

[COLOR=“Magenta”][SIZE=“4”][B]Next Row: Continue in rib as established, dec 1 st at beg of row, dec 1 st before and after each marker, dec 1 st at end of row.[/B][/SIZE][/COLOR]Rep last row until 12 sts remain. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through remaining sts, gather tightly and fasten securely. With same tail, sew back seam.


Weave in ends.

[COLOR=“Magenta”][SIZE=“4”][B]Thank you in advance![/B][/SIZE][/COLOR]

You can choose any decrease(s) you prefer.

However, as the hat has you decreasing on either sides of a SM you should make sure they are paired decresases. i.e. use a left slanting one before the marker, and a right slanting one after the marker.

I would go with k2tog and ssk

Since this decrease occurs on every row, it looks better if you decrease without keeping to the k1p1 rib. I like to decrease so that the knit st stays on top and I maintain a line of V’s at the decrease.

If your row starts with knit st, the markers for the first row will be between a purl and a knit st. If you slip the 2sts before the marker knitwise and k2togtbl (throught the back loop) slip the marker and then k2tog you wind up with 3 knit sts in a row and it looks nice. On the back row a purl2tog on each side of the marker maintains the knit sts on the front row (outside of the hat). You can experiment with decreases on some waste yarn to see if you like the look.

I can’t say the type of decrease doesn’t matter, as each leans differently. But what really matters is that you’re consistent with your decreases. If you start with k2tog, stay with it, or if you start with ssk stick with it. Don’t switch between the two unless the pattern calls for it, changing decrease styles will really change the look of your finished work.