What is ‘CO with additional yarn’

Does anyone have any videos or can explain to me:( looks fun and neat so i wanna tryyyy

Intriguing. I assume this is the cast on for some small number of underarm sts. What is the name of your pattern and designer?

Do i knit with the additional yarn on the first round or with the pixk up n knits?

Designer: morecaknit
Pattern: penny jumper 1.2

As I understand it you would knit with the main body yarn. I don’t understand pulling the ends of the cast on yarn however. Did you work a provisional cast on at the middle of the body?


She sent me this, knit with the contrast yarn tgt, just not sure if i pick up and knit with it or in the next round.

This is for the sleeves part

I can’t see your pictures clearly but I think it’s referring to a technique I’ve seen described by patty Lyons. I’ll look for the video, but essentially, I think you use a smooth thread of contrast colour held double with the main yarn when you pick up stitches for the sleeve. This marks the pick up row. This row is often looser than the main knit section as the base of each stitch is not held tight in the same way as in a body of stockinette. So you basically pull back slack in this pick up row towards the tail end of the yarn. It gives a really neat line and the contrast yarn helps to identify the correct row to ease. I usually do it stitch by stitch and remove the contrast yarn carefully rather than just tug it out!

3 Likes

I read it the same way. It says use a similar color but I use a contrast color to make it easier to see since after adjusting tension I remove the added in piece. I use crochet cotton. Last time I looked for a video showing this I couldn’t find it.

Hmm, i watched a reference video where she was adjusting the extra yarn, she wasnt pulling it out. She just used it to tighten the gap and the extra yarn is left in the work, probably why she used a similar yarn color…
my brain is not braining bc i cant picture it😭 maybe i will do up a sample piece to understand it…

I was thinking the same, and I’ve seen a video a couple of years back but have spent ages today trying to find it and can’t.
I think in this case, instead of a contrast colour and removing the second yarn it is somehow tightened and left in. I was interested to see if anyone knew the technique of it staying in and how it was done - it sounds like pulling rather than easing and I wondered if it would have the effect of tightening up without needing to do each stitch individually… like mattress stitch on a seam.
The only video I found today was a super short clip on Facebook, I’m not even sure how to post it, it’s certainly not as clear or helpful as the full video I’ve seen in the past.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1367592413736710&id=100053433876401

Pulling the ‘additional yarn’ to tighten things up and leaving it sounds like it would be gathered but that would depend on how much tightening is needed. Just a little tightening would be more like easing in fullness. I tend to remove a lot of yarn when adjusting the picked up stitches, In sewing the gathering thread is pulled then the seam is sewn and the gathering thread removed. I will try looking at your link now.

I looked at the second attachment again and it says contrast color for the second yarn. What does it say about this later in the pattern? My guess is that it’s for tightening up the picked up stitches then it will be removed. Maybe it says that and I missed it.

I’ve found the Instagram clip I was thinking of!

This isn’t something I’ve ever tried. I sometimes pick up sts around an armhole with a size smaller needle then switch to the required needle to knit the sleeves.
Isn’t there a difference in the technique recommended for the sleeve/body join and that recommended the next post on the collarband?

Thank you for the Patty Lyons’ video. She always has clever tips.

I don’t think I’ve seen the one on the collar band.
I have used the technique above and actually pulled out all of the slack without ill effect! I was really surprised that there was no bunching or restriction in the join! However, depending on your yarn, it can be a bit of a faff pulling it around, especially as the slack gets longer and feels like it’s abrading the yarn! So instead, I’ll often pick up with a much smaller needle e.g a 2 mm!! Or if I’m on the knitting machine, after a few rows, while the project is still stretched on the needles, I’ll pull the tail (as if I’m about to tink back a row) so that the pick up row is effectively a straight line of yarn rather than loops. Really surprising but it does seem to fine a better appearance! :rofl::rofl:

2 Likes

[From the image using “Google lens.”]

The sleeves are worked in the round in stockinette stitch with decreases towards the cuff using…

Tip: Using additional yarn for the cast-on can help create a seamless connection between the sleeve and the body. (a) Once the sleeve is knitted, the joining point can be made invisible by [cutting &] pulling on the ends of the cast-on yarn.

[Insert, edit suggestion, or comments in square brackets are mine.]

I believe it is describing a provisional cast on using waste yarn. I have seen this method in machine knitting to start with “waste” yarn.

In detail:

  1. Pull out a long tail of suitable, alternate yarn(1). It needs to be long enough to cast on and also work 2 [or more] rows of the cast on stitch count on a compatible pattern to the sleeve.
  2. Knit until you have a short tail that will not slip out and change to your working yarn. [Leave a similar tail in working yarn, or perhaps use a slip knot to join the trails.]
  3. [Thinking ahead] One could work one row in your working yarn and sleeve pattern to be used as your grafting yarn. Then tie another slip knot to mark beginning of the sleeve.
  4. When sleeve is done(2), untie the join slip knot and un-knit the join stitches.

[Notes: ]
(a) It seems to me that the sleeves are Knit separate and then joined to the body.

(1)

For this technique, ensure you use an additional yarn that is smooth, exceptionally strong, thinner than your main yarn, and of a similar color.

(2) The sleeve can be test fit as you knit to adjust length or decrease adjustments to tailor a pattern to your desired fit or sleeve length style!

We need to know what comes later in the pattern about the sleeves.

Thank you for including easy to read excerpts. I’d never think of knitting the sleeves this way but I guess it makes sense. I just pick up and knit then start the sleeves, checking for fit as I go. I looked at the pattern page and see no reference to seamed or seamless but it does say Kitchener so something’s intended to be grafted. That could be the plan, graft the sleeves in place.

After you have cast on all the stitches using Judy’s Magic Cast-On, continue to knit in the round using the Magic Loop technique. This method ensures that the stitches remain split between two needles. When you begin knitting the first round, start by working the first four stitches with your main yarn. Then, take a smooth, thin contrasting yarn (CC), hold it together with the main yarn, and work across the first needle using both yarns together—double-stranding if your main yarn is a single ply or triple-stranding if it’s already double-ply—until you reach the last four stitches of this needle. Cut the CC yarn and knit the remaining four stitches with just the main yarn. On the second needle, continue knitting with the main yarn only, and proceed in the same manner for the entire circular part of the collar band.

This was sent by the designer!!! Knitting confuses me so much​:sob::sob:

I’m so dumb… SHE GAVE ME FOR COLLARBAND AND NOT SLEEVES

Looks similar to the video she showed me, but the designer only pulled the extra yarn. Not one by one but literally just pulling it from the leg

Is this video one you can share?