Here are two options for the top of a sleeve to fit into an armhole. It’s a modified drop shoulder.
Do both of these sleeve cap shapes work? Or is one of them correct and then other totally wrong?
Option 1 has bind offs (a), decrease angle (b) and top of sleeve bind offs (c).
Option 2 has no bind off but instead a short section of the top of the sleeve seam is used to seam to the body underarm bind offs (a), decrease angle (b), and top of sleeve bind offs (c).
I think either could work. Option 1 has a more “normal” underarm shaping, like the curve you’d have for a set-in sleeve.
Option 2 will give a more square-cut look, with some bunching under the arm, as you would get for a standard drop-shoulder or t-shaped garment. It’s a way of raising the shoulder seam closer to the actual shoulder, while keeping the width needed for the chest/bust.
Option 1 was my original plan then I suddenly thought it wasn’t right. I decided to go ahead and try option 1… and a few rows in convinced myself it was wrong and ripped it out. I have now worked it in option 2 just past the bind off and some rows into the saddle shoulder.
What I’ll do is put this on hold and work the other sleeve with option 1. I’ll work it up to the same place and then I can stare at them both, or temporarily seam them in and see what happens.
This took me while to understand. So, this makes the shoulder sit higher up? And does it make the armhole a bit bigger than option 1 too?
I need to try it. Part of me is still wondering if it works with a modified drop sleeve shape rather than set in sleeve shape. I’m going for the modiied drop because I think the stitch pattern would look nice that way (cable meeting at right angles at the sleeve to body seam) rather than the set in sleeve.
When I searched for info on this question the results brought up a similar question of mine from about 5 years ago, ha ha, looks like I am very slow to learn.
I think your idea of trying both, one on each side, is a good one. Then you’ll know for sure which one you like better, and what the difference is in both fit and appearance.
Thanks for the encouragement. I wanted to do the second sleeve today but haven’t been able to get to it. I think I’ll have to amend my plan too as I’d thought I could be decided on the sleeve caps without the front being done (just sewing onto the back, checking measurements) but it would be better to check the fit and appearance with both front and back complete. I also need the front to be able to work out exact length of the saddle shoulder and the shaping of the saddle at the neck, I plan to have it a little longer toward the back for a little neck shaping. But I’m also using the back and sleeves as a kind of mock up to work out where to start the neck shaping on the front. I sort of know but not 100%
Gosh every part of this will be on hold waiting for final decisions and tweaks to construction. The great thing about having redone my swatches thousands of times is I have no fear whatsoever of needing to rip back or tink, I am a half twisted stitch seven seas cable ripping whizz now, ripping out a saddle and sleeve cap is nothing in comparison.
I don’t recall whether you sew at all?? If this was me, with so many questions about fit, I’d get some fabric and make a mock-up. It would solve the sleeve question and enable you to have a sort of pattern for the saddle shoulder. Although one would probably need another pair of hands/eyes to deal with the neckline…very hard to do on yourself!
Gosh, no I can’t sew a thing. I was the needlework teacher’s nightmare student at school. My skill set is definitely not textiles. The only reason I can seam knitting is there is an exact place to put the needle. I struggle to sew on a button. I do take in my little mister’s waist band on his PJs but only because no one sees how badly it’s done and I guarentee I’ll have the thread in some tangled knot!
All suggestions are welcome.
I kind of know what I’m doing with the knitting. I have done a swatch of the initial neck bind off and just need to check with the back piece to see which cable cross to separate the neck on, and I kind of know how it will decrease. So i sort of know what’s happening even if all the finals rows need adjusting towards the end.
I think knitting is more forgiving than sewing too, easier to tink or add a few rows.
